SW HPC-15 clear
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Tried this clear for the first time today. Had 2 doors to paint jambs and all. I was a little nervous as I had never used a wet on wet clear before so I did I complete door 2 coats wet on wet then did the other door. I did’nt want the clear to try too soon on me before I got the second coat on. Sprayed the first door with medium wet coats and obtaind a nice texture to it but wanted to see if I could get it a little smoother on the second door. I put the coats on a little heavier and wound up getting a run along on body line. Funny thing was the clear had pretty much the same overall texture as the first door.
I was definatly impressed with the dry time on this clear. It was also the first speed clear I used in my booth that didn’t solvent pop on me. I used the UH4 reducer which is the sloest reducer they call for. I wouldn’t be afraid to try 3-4 panels with this clear. the worst that can happen is you would need to buff out some dry spray. but that can be done in 15 minutes after painting anyways so no big deal.
I would be curious to know if you could use the uh5 (slower reducer) in this clear to do more panels or if the hardener kicks it too fast to let the solvents escape. maybe nighthawk could find that out
Overall. nice clear and I will use againDing… just to clarify, you’re talking about US reducers (US2, US3, US4)… UH is the hardener (UH80)
As for using US5 or US6 to slow down the HPC15 a bit more – for right now I’m going to say don’t even think about going there. US5 & 6 are very different from US1 through 4. US5 & 6 contain some type of acid (thus they come in lined cans) which could cause issues if used in the wrong products.
I would say that if you feel you want to slow down the HPC15 more than you get with US4 – you’re probably using the wrong product and might be better off going with CC931.
With CC931, you’re dust free in 20-30 minutes air dry (5 minutes bake or infra-red)
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/media/pds/English/6149.pdfHowever, in reading your comments, I see you’re not so much looking to slow it down, as you are looking to spray it with less texture. Without being there, and not knowing quite a few things, my first guess would be you might get the results you’re looking for by adjusting your gun setup.
It’s possible you just need to get the clear atomized a bit more. I notice the PDS doesn’t clarify that the 10 PSI HVLP recommendation is *at the cap* (we’ve been bitching to the proper authorities to have this changed and clarified). Depending on your gun, that means you need something like 25-30 PSI going *into* the gun. If you use an Iwata, that would be a bit lower 18-24 PSI.
US, UH it’s all the same:) . I was just wondering about slowing it down to do more panels. Not as a neccesity but more as a why not try it. I’m usually not about speed when it comes to paint drying so its more curiosity than anything. The texture was fine on both panels. I was really just trying to get a feel for the clear and the wet on wet application as it was my first time. As I said I was suprised though the the texture did’nt seem to change by putting it on wetter.
Now stop trying to sell us your product and stop sneaking in here late a night and start joining us in the chat box;)I’m always selling… I’ll run down a guy in a body shop jacket at the grocery store, bust out my Planet Color chip book for someone I meet at a wedding… if I see someone driving down the street in a primered car, I’ll flag them down and ask them if they need some paint!
Yeah… putting the clear on wetter doesn’t seem to matter as much as giving it time to flow out (and knowing how wet you should put it on so that it *only* flows out and doesn’t run or sag). Two medium wet coats, a couple of mils of thickness, you’re good to go.
Cool that you’re playing with it and testing the limits. I like to do stuff like that.
Chat box? … I’m not really much of a chat type of guy. I do my posting here and on a couple of other forums, post to a couple of newsgroups, then spend the rest of the evening killing my fellow Americans playing Americas Army (where I also don’t chat much)
got a gallon today. Jobber had a special grand reopening offer. selling gallon kits for “jobber cost”. Whatever they called it it wasn’t much more than the quart kit I got the other day. I will play with it some more and try to push the limits with it. good to know what it will do under non-production circumstances. I did like that it did not pop on me as other speed clear do in my booth. I will definately try out some of the other clears and products as well.
One question is has there been any issues with durability due to the extreme speed?ya gotta hammer it wet on wet 2 coats back ta back ta make it work keep your pressure up an your fluid cranked in a little dont ask me how i know this shit:P
A little hard to sand for recoating. Let it sit for about 2 hrs then sanded. took a while to knock it down. doesn’t like dulling out with a grey scuff pad took some effort in the corners. got one part that will sit over the weekend and I’ll see how that sands after it sets up some more
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]One question is has there been any issues with durability due to the extreme speed?[/quote]None that I know of at this point in time.
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]A little hard to sand for recoating. Let it sit for about 2 hrs then sanded. took a while to knock it down. doesn’t like dulling out with a grey scuff pad took some effort in the corners. got one part that will sit over the weekend and I’ll see how that sands after it sets up some more[/quote]I think you probably want to go the other way – sand it as soon as possible. When I tried it, sanded it after 15 minutes, it powdered up very nicely. In talking with the techs and people at the training center, they seem to like it best when they got on it within the first hour.
I was wet sanding it. It is better to dry sand this clear. also I was multitasking so I couldn’t get on it right away
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I was wet sanding it. It is better to dry sand this clear. also I was multitasking so I couldn’t get on it right away[/quote]I think most painters are multitasking, so, whenever we have a product with a narrow window, it concerns me a bit.
We have a very cool primer that you can roll on or apply with a spreader. I initially shied away from presenting it to anyone because you had to mix it, wait 5 minutes, then roll it or spread it. I figured most painters would likely come back after 15 and find out it was too late to use it. We subsequently came out with a two part cartridge version of the product where you just shoot as much as you need out of the gun, roll it or spread it, and you’re good to go. Now *that* I sell.
Another “window” product would be any of the scratch resistant clears. Man… if you’re going to buff or sand that stuff, you better do it sooner rather than later. Shoot it on Friday with the plan to buff and sand on Monday? Not gonna happen.
A little while ago we had a S&W demo at our shop. We’ve since signed a contract with basf but anyhow on the topic of that primer i just wanted to mention a problem they had. They called it squeegee primer as it was applied with one. It sounded like a great idea but they had a problem during the demo. It came out watery and just didn’t work, it was one of those awkward moments where they tried to talk their way out of it and blame a bad batch.
I’ve been meaning to get some in to try for myself, is this the same stuff? what kind of feedback do ya get on it? I don’t know if this is the same stuff, they never said anything about waiting 5 minutes….or maybe that was their problem?
If my little helper did’nt bag work at noon on saturday I coould have had him sand it right away but no I was here till seven he left at noon. The rear fairing was even harder to sand today than the tank was on saturday but he did that one:laugh: .
Jimmo just curious what made you go basf over swRecoating the tank after sanding with 600 produced a nice smooth finish. I like the way it layed out. also sanded and buffed a few nibs and the ridge from the srtipe. got to it about 20 min after spraying. I used 2500 and it buffed out nice with my mini polisher and a foam pad using presta light compound. didn’t seem to leave any swirls nor did it leave scratches when wiping the residue off like a lot of fresh paints do.
We really just decided to go with BASF because it was what we’d been using, it was familiar and they offered a competitive contract. Basf vs S&W you gonna find their both stronger and weaker in different areas, which will probably be true comparing any manufacturers. One of the most important things I’ve always found was color match. I know that BASF is very strong in that department which is probably another big factor. They have had the color chips that were actually sprayed out for quite a while, I see S&W just launched that which will definitely boost their line.
I’ve haven’t really sprayed S&W too much, I’ve just heard from others their color matching isn’t near as strong as BASF’s but that’s how they found it. I’m sure theirs many satisfied S&W users that will argue that.
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