Tack rag
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I know there are basic two types..
The solid tack rag and the gauze type tack rag..I had found out the hard way 🙂 that the gauze type will sometimes tiny hairs/strings and when you clear over them you are DONE..
Which one do you prefer?
Solid cloth or Gauze type?I don’t know if these are just North American or not, but I like the Royal brand Uni-rag. They are big, inexpensive and last a Long time. Once they’ve been used / “broken in” they work amazing.
They are kinda old school, but all the fancy advanced new ones I’ve tried, I haven’t liked.
I use the 3M aqua ones at work. They don’t leave any lint or residue behind but aren’t exactly the most “tacky”.
Has anyone tried the 3M ones that look like a big white scuff pad?
http://www.emmamerica.com/tack-rags/
Been using these.. I am not quite satisfied.. they sometimes leave lints behind..
Haven’t got to use the 3M.. and if i find them they will be probably 5 euros a piece which is nuts..
10 pack of standard is 5 euros.. 1 rag 3M is 5 euro.. see the difference..
What about a tack rag and a super fine hi quality micro fiber on top just to be sure to get the lint free finish..
[quote=”martinMK” post=33156]http://www.emmamerica.com/tack-rags/
10 pack of standard is 5 euros.. 1 rag 3M is 5 euro.. see the difference..
[/quote]I agree about the cost of them, but if a top line tack rag saves us from having to flat and polish the dust out of just one bonnet/hood a day I’ve more than made that money back 🙂
That is true :agree
Used to use the old school type but now I use these;
http://www.chicopee-europe.com/by-name/automotive/itack
From my supplier. They arnt too expensive, last ages and I cut them in half because they’re big.
Don’t leave any lint or sticky behind like the old ones.
[quote=”martinMK” post=33156]
What about a tack rag and a super fine hi quality micro fiber on top just to be sure to get the lint free finish..[/quote]
I missed that bit.
If I’ve done a fair bit of dry sanding (and let’s face it, dust extraction never catches it all) I do wipe down with a microfibre to remove the majority of the dust. Dirt cheap and washable / reusable. I see many people just blowing this kind of sanding dust off with an airline but it isn’t exactly good for your health! :blink:
I use a Gerson Blend Prep synthetic.
[quote=”Andy T” post=33163][quote=”martinMK” post=33156]
What about a tack rag and a super fine hi quality micro fiber on top just to be sure to get the lint free finish..[/quote]
I missed that bit.
If I’ve done a fair bit of dry sanding (and let’s face it, dust extraction never catches it all) I do wipe down with a microfibre to remove the majority of the dust. Dirt cheap and washable / reusable. I see many people just blowing this kind of sanding dust off with an airline but it isn’t exactly good for your health! :blink:[/quote]
Nothing in this game is any good for you mate,ya body takes a hammering in this game !
True.. the other day I almost passed out with the fumes of the clear.. my respirator got stuck and I had to continue clearing in the booth with out one.. 3 mins later whoosh almost blacked out..
I use the Crystal premium for my initial tack and the move to the gerson blue for my final tack before clear.
PPG has a final tack cloth that works great part number sx1070Hello, all…I just happened across this forum now. I’d like to contribute some info as an expert in tack cloth design and production (with nearly 40 years in the business).
There is quite a variety of materials used to make tack cloths. Regarding the cloth material, noted in this forum is the conventional cotton type, made with cheesecloth (gauze). Important is a common auto OEM design that is knitted with non-fibrous, filament polyester yarns and having finished edges to be “lint free”. Also referenced in the forum are non-woven cloths, designed to be lower in cost. Each cloth type has advantages and disadvantages.
“Tack” may range from a simple one-part treatment in the commodity grade tack cloths, to complex, multi-part formulas in the preferred professional brands. Modern commercial tack cloths are made with hot-melt treatments in the US/EU, and usually (still) with solvent systems in Asia. Water-borne systems are typically used in non-woven tack cloths for certain reasons, but may also appear in woven or knitted cloths. There is a great variety of quality and performance to be found among these different systems and formulas — just like paints, sealants, etc. Generally, the better tack cloths require more sophisticated production systems to accommodate tack treatments that are optimized for both “adhesion” (dirt pick-up and holding) and “cohesion” (relating to resistance to resin transfer). Simpler tack cloths tend to use thinner (oilier, or high-solvent) treatments to ease production and minimize cost. But thinner treatments will transfer more easily, so less of the treatment can be used and thus the tacking performance is reduced. “Bee’s wax” is NOT a material used in modern, commercial tack cloths.
Different tack-off applications can benefit from different tack cloth designs. I’m glad to answer questions and discuss any related information in greater detail.
[quote=”surfacepreptech” post=34241]Hello, all…I just happened across this forum now. I’d like to contribute some info as an expert in tack cloth design and production (with nearly 40 years in the business).
There is quite a variety of materials used to make tack cloths. Regarding the cloth material, noted in this forum is the conventional cotton type, made with cheesecloth (gauze). Important is a common auto OEM design that is knitted with non-fibrous, filament polyester yarns and having finished edges to be “lint free”. Also referenced in the forum are non-woven cloths, designed to be lower in cost. Each cloth type has advantages and disadvantages.
“Tack” may range from a simple one-part treatment in the commodity grade tack cloths, to complex, multi-part formulas in the preferred professional brands. Modern commercial tack cloths are made with hot-melt treatments in the US/EU, and usually (still) with solvent systems in Asia. Water-borne systems are typically used in non-woven tack cloths for certain reasons, but may also appear in woven or knitted cloths. There is a great variety of quality and performance to be found among these different systems and formulas — just like paints, sealants, etc. Generally, the better tack cloths require more sophisticated production systems to accommodate tack treatments that are optimized for both “adhesion” (dirt pick-up and holding) and “cohesion” (relating to resistance to resin transfer). Simpler tack cloths tend to use thinner (oilier, or high-solvent) treatments to ease production and minimize cost. But thinner treatments will transfer more easily, so less of the treatment can be used and thus the tacking performance is reduced. “Bee’s wax” is NOT a material used in modern, commercial tack cloths.
Different tack-off applications can benefit from different tack cloth designs. I’m glad to answer questions and discuss any related information in greater detail.[/quote]
Welcome! Nice to have an expert in the field of Tack Rags!
We’re using PPG Deltron GRS solvent base and for the last 5 years have been using the Gerson Blue tack rags. They work great (as long as you don’t press too hard on the surface), and we use the old ones to wipe the airline in the booth when painting.
Best part is they cost only a dollar each, so you can theoretically use a new one for each job (I tell my guys to replace them every 3rd job though as you can keep turning them to a fresh side).
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