Tack Rags Leaving debris behind?
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[quote=”JCClark” post=19627]And as the directions say, it leaves NO residues.[/quote]
That would be my only concern.
I’m all for trying new & unconventional techniques, and unlike some others here I’m not knocking you for using it, but looking at the list of ingredients I can’t help but think it must leave something behind, possibly compromising adhesion. But then if you’ve been using it for so long without any such issues, I guess it isn’t really a problem.
I doubt I’d have the nerve to try it myself on anything other than a test panel though.
Personally I find that a decent waterborne degreaser kills static dead, as long as you wipe it dry gently, rather than vigorously rubbing and building the static back up.
Did you ever try the PPG DX103 or wetting the floor?
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19736]Did you ever try the PPG DX103 or wetting the floor?[/quote]
I did wet floor down but I havnt tride the DX103 (No PPG dealer in my area)
[quote=”ding” post=19478]
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/refinish/en/locator/Pages/default.aspx?searchType=17&Zip=89117 :whistle:[/quote]Ding
I used that dang thing before and it said the nearest one was up in Reno???
Might be my Zip code as Im 100 mi from vegas.
I am Familiar with De’Angelos paint shop although I didnt know they were a PPG dealer?
I will swing by there shop and try picking some up and try it.When I lived in Tulsa There I had a PPG store that was ALL PPG it was a really cool paint shop.
The guys in that place were really sharp.…just came across this board during routine research. I’m a foremost expert in tack cloth, with nearly 40 years experience that includes product design, innovation, manufacturing and applications support (esp. at auto OEM’s, etc.). A couple of quick comments about what I’ve read in this thread :
the traditional cotton gauze (cheesecloth) tack cloth types were all previously made with finish-woven edges (“selvage”) when those weaving looms were state-of-the-art. But more modern weaving looms produce rough edges with cut yarn ends. However, the old-style finish edged cloth is still available from some cheesecloth weaving mills, so it can be found in some tack cloths. As a general rule, all wipers are better with finished edges rather than raw edges. Note that auto OEM’s haven’t used cotton tack cloths for some 20 years now, and instead use mainly non-fibrous, polyester knitted types (something that I introduced back in 1988)..
some of the major brand names mentioned in this thread are not tack cloth manufacturers. The large corporate, multi-national PBE brand that you all know will typically have their tack cloths made under contract to one of the specialty producers that are all relatively small businesses.
I’m always glad to answer technical questions about tack cloths, as well as to help your jobbers or PBE wholesalers to better understand and improve their tack cloth offerings.
First and foremost welcome to the forum, I am very appreciative of your contribution to this thread but, it will be a lot more effective if you could, with your wisdom bring some explanation of why and how can be avoided, “Tack Rags Leaving debris behind?” :welc :welc
Thanks for keeping this thread going. I’m glad to address the topic title specifically, but its just one of many FAQ’s that tack cloth users will have.
Tack Cloth debris originates from 3 sources : 1) fiber or threads from the cloth (textile) component of tack cloth; 2) chemical residues from the tack treatment; and 3) dirt (defined as particles and fibers) that are picked up by tack cloth but then re-deposited due to lack of adhesive tack quality.
So the remedies for these specific “debris” maladies are straight forward :
[b]fiber or threads[/b] — if using cotton tack cloth, look for finish-woven long edges (selvages) and not raw (cut thread) edge that are increasingly common Look for straight, clean-cut piece ends. And pay the rate for tighter weaves (24/20 and up to 28/24 mesh, or 52 yarns/inch) over retailers’ preferred profit makers of low thread count (20/9, 20/12 or 20/16). Better yet, ask for auto OEM quality “lint free’ design with non-fibrous, filament polyester knit fabric with finish-knitted edges and sealed end cuts
[b]tack residues & dirt retention [/b]– test for, and value, a tack cloth that’s made with “complex” multi-part tack treatment formulary, rather than cheap one-part “commodity” tack cloths that are often too light in tack or oily. Avoid tack cloth made with solvents (VOC – volatile organic components). And be sure that you’re using the tack cloth correctly — poor wiping technique is a common cause of tack transfer.
I’m glad to expound on these comments as requested, and to address the many other tack cloth variables.
Should the tack cloth be folded up like a pad or opened up and wadded up like a ball?
Generally, the traditional cotton gauze types of tack cloth are recommended to be fully opened, and then loosely re-bundled (wadded, balled), repeating the procedure as surfaces become dirty. But you can used the flat-folded tack cloth on broad, flat surfaces (re-folding as needed) The auto OEM polyester knit tack cloth types, and non-woven types, essentially must be used flat.
More questions ?
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