Technique to achieve orange peel

Home / Forums / Main Forum / Paint and Refinish / Technique to achieve orange peel

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 23 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • January 2, 2013 at 2:47 am #40100

    What are the key factors for getting clear to peel? I sprayed a door and fender on an f-350 and this truck had a lot of peel in it. I used my sata 3000rp (guess I should have grabbed my wal mart gun). Anyway I was able to get it to peel a little bit. I tried a few things. I ran the gun wide open at 32 psi for the first pass and it went on really smooth. On the next pass I moved back to around 10″ from the panel and reduced the pressure some. It gave me some peel but nothing like what’s on the rest of the truck. So what’s the best way to achieve the factory finish?

    January 2, 2013 at 3:03 am #40101

    buy a twelve pack of sam adams an invite ding over ta shoot it for ya :cheers :nothingtoad

    January 2, 2013 at 3:08 am #40102

    [quote=”bondomerchant” post=29089]buy a twelve pack of sam adams an invite ding over ta shoot it for ya :cheers :nothingtoad[/quote]
    :rofl :rofl
    Seriously tho if you reduce your air pressure and increase your distance with wide open material you can pretty much nail that corn on the cob texture.A faster mix of hardener and reducer will also help.Not every vehicle is the same,ford and dodge pick ups are the worst.

    January 2, 2013 at 3:27 am #40103

    Cool. I will try that next time. Just out of curiosity what would a repair like this cost in your shops? I repaired a spot on the door, blended into the front fender and cleared the door and front fender. This was my first time using my new Tekna pro lite. I really liked it. I was cleaning the gun and forgot about the spray head not being attached when you take the fluid nozzle off so I’m gonna have to tear my garage apart to find it. I had my respirator and suit on so the plastic from the suit muffled the sound and I never heard it fall. I’ve looked everywhere lol

    (I know I used a lot of tape lol. I’ve had clear soak into that green paper before though and wanted to make sure I had it covered all the way up to the plastic.)

    [IMG]http://i633.photobucket.com/albums/uu56/xtremekustomz/dually_zps5149a53a.jpg[/IMG]

    January 2, 2013 at 4:19 am #40104

    Each area is different in regards to labor rates and material costs,the price could be all over the place.To give an honest answer we would need to see it in person before the damage was fixed.

    January 2, 2013 at 4:35 am #40105

    It was only about the size of a silver dollar. Just a ding from a bicycle handlebar but it was close to the front so by the time I finished everything out I was really close to the front fender so I blended it.

    January 2, 2013 at 4:44 am #40106

    No need to use the green paper. Plastic right up to the panels

    January 2, 2013 at 5:19 am #40107

    [quote]What are the key factors for getting clear to peel?[/quote]

    [color=#ff0000]Have me paint it![/color]

    Sorry, could not resist.

    Happy New Year.
    EB

    :nothingtoad

    [quote]No need to use the green paper. Plastic right up to the panels [/quote]

    I wish I had done this. I used green paper when spraying a flow coat on everything except the hood and it soaked through and now I have to fix that!!

    January 2, 2013 at 5:30 am #40110

    [quote=”ding” post=29094]No need to use the green paper. Plastic right up to the panels[/quote]

    x2 save money with less tape and paper and less dirt

    January 2, 2013 at 7:09 am #40112

    I will do that from now on then. I didn’t know if maybe having plastic right against the edge would let the basecoat release and fly all over the place. You know…it boggles my mind how I lost that piece to my gun. I removed everything from all of my shelves around the area where I was. I moved the shelves out to see if it rolled under. I took garbage out of the can piece by piece to no avail. It makes no sense. Now watch it will be the most expensive part of the gun to replace.

    January 2, 2013 at 7:25 am #40113

    Just a heads up,make sure you have automotive type masking sheeting that will have one side marked for overspray or it will flake off 😉

    January 4, 2013 at 12:42 am #40124

    If you need any help with your run technique, let me know.

    January 4, 2013 at 3:32 am #40125

    Called Devilbiss directly and they wouldn’t sell the part to me but gave me some numbers to try to some dealers. Called like 4 and all the same story. Warehouse doesn’t have the part and it will be 4 weeks and since they have a minimum order it may be longer. In the meantime a few of the people contact Devilbiss directly and they agree to ship the part. I tell the first guy I talk to go ahead and order it. Just after I get off the phone Len from autobodystore calls and says he spoke to them and has one on the way so I call and cancel the other one. I walked out to get my mail and found it in the grass. Apparently there is more to this little part than what it looks. It rolled out of my garage UPHILL 15′ and then rolled 3′ into the grass. I called Len and told him I found it and said I would buy the part from him anyway but he said he didn’t want to sell me a part I really didn’t need anymore. I must say he’s a great guy to deal with. I had a feeling just as soon as I found someone that could get it I would find it…

    January 4, 2013 at 6:57 am #40130

    Len’s ok, but if you mentioned this site by name on his forum he would have deleted it and Henry would have written a page sermon about how wrong you were to do so :pcorn:

    January 4, 2013 at 7:14 am #40133

    [quote=”ding” post=29118]Len’s ok, but if you mentioned this site by name on his forum he would have deleted it and Henry would have written a page sermon about how wrong you were to do so :pcorn:[/quote]
    Has Henry come up for air yet??? :rofl :rofl :rofl

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 23 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.