The Scoop. (Another Question added)
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Well I just finished fabbing up the scoop.
This is what I got to work with:[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00090.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00088.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00091.JPG[/img]My question now is, how do I want to attach it? Body Adhesives? or Fiberglass it?
But I think Bondo’s got the right idea. Glue it to the hood, and glass over the edges.
Any opinions on that?
I see what yer doing now, ya I like bondo’s idea. might as well just bolt it too seeing as you got it all ready, not gonna hurt any. interested to see the progress on this, keep us updated & take pics along the way. I’d use 3M panelbond 08115 on it personally but I’m sure there are other options. I’m sure you still run the risks of seeing a visible line or “ghosting” at the seams but I don’t think their is any other way to do it.
experience tells me that once bonded it won’t hold up for ever , but , bond with adhesive and bolt down , then glass it in and smooth with bondo :pcorn:
p.s. those don’t look like bodymans hands :whistle:
I second what everybody else says, bevel your edges before proceeding with the glass filler should help with the ghosting jimmos talkin about. If this is a customer car you should tell them to buy a good glass hood if they want a molded scoop. Keep track of your time on this, even the head scratching parts and you will find it is killing your earnings. Also never forget that the car has your name all over it, pleased customers might tell 10 people what a wonderful work you do, pissed customers will tell 100 people how you F’d up theirs. Remember that YOU the professional always know best even if it means refusing customers wishes to use parts they supply, or other things beyond your control which may not give the best over all result.
I hear ya’.
It’s coming down to being too close, and I don’t have time to ship in another hood with two week delivery times.
The center line of the hood is almost flat near the end, and I figured instead of throwing a 1/2 inch of bondo in there and trying to block the line into it… I’d just cover it with the scoop.
So far I got maybe 6 hours into fabbing this thing, I figure glue it, Bolt it, Rivet the outer edges, glass over the edges.
Go over it with a reinforced Filler, and then Rage gold.I hope with everything on it, the fucker will stay down.
I hope I can maybe finish it today. At least get it down.
I already suggested a new hood for the client, he said it was out of the budget. just go with the factory hood as is.
I feel I already got too much work into this hood as far as alignment, matching lines and so on. To just dump it.
I figure it will take me less time to glass a scoop, than it would to deal with an aftermarket hood, or a fiberglass hood.I figure putting the scoop over the problem area will save me more time than fixing it.
So it’s coming down to, although this is not the safest process, this is going to be the least time consuming one.
I’m going to straight out tell the client that the hood he insisted to use was too fucked up. And proper repairs were near impossible, I did what I could with what I had to work with.
If it fails, It’s not my ass. And don’t bother getting it repaired, if it fails. Throw the POS in the trash and replace it.I would skip the rivets, and put a skim coat of bonding adhesive over the top edge of the scoop before it starts to kick.
Are you going to bond to the filler that’s there or go to bare metal?Another head’s up when choosing an adhesive to get one that allows you to apply polyester fillers (fiberglass) over them. Some glues you can’t get fillers to stick well to and they can lift and bubble, been down that road before….not fun. Often the fast urethane glues are the ones you can’t put filler over, the epoxy based stuff is what you want.
[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]I second what everybody else says, bevel your edges before proceeding with the glass filler should help with the ghosting jimmos talkin about. If this is a customer car you should tell them to buy a good glass hood if they want a molded scoop. Keep track of your time on this, even the head scratching parts and you will find it is killing your earnings. Also never forget that the car has your name all over it, pleased customers might tell 10 people what a wonderful work you do, pissed customers will tell 100 people how you F’d up theirs. Remember that YOU the professional always know best even if it means refusing customers wishes to use parts they supply, or other things beyond your control which may not give the best over all result.[/quote]Sound Advice ^^^^^^^ :whistle:
Cerbia, Why on earth you would spend 3+ years working on 1 customers car which is supposed to be a billboard for your work, only to glass a GT-350 bolt on scoop onto a stock hood is beyond me.
Especially considering that fiberglass versions of the exact thing your trying to pull off are readily available.
How do you plan on addressing the underside of the hood if you rivet or bolt this thing down? It’s gonna look like @$$ at a car show with studs and rivets hanging under there.
Well got the scoop on so far.
Measured, Fitted, Drilled, Cleco’d all that good stuff.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00092.JPG[/img]Drawed out.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00093.JPG[/img]Perfectly cut.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00094.JPG[/img]Abraded with a 40 Grit grinding disk. Then gone over heavy with 80 just to get anything I may have missed.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00095.JPG[/img]Final fit.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00096.JPG[/img]Used some 3M 8115 Epoxy Panel Bonding Adhesive. Nuked the hell out of both bonding surfaces. Stuck it on, Cleco’d it than lightly finger tightened the Bolts on the bottom.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00098.JPG[/img]Now I’ve just got to hope that my Cleco’s come back out. :lol1
The 3M Automix system is expensive as hell. But I’ll admit, it is a really really nice system.
but damn it is expensive… :S
this is gonna look pretty cool when your done. I think you should have sprayed epoxy over that metal first, that looks like it e’l be tought to hit with a gun now.
there …. now what was so hard about that :pcorn: good job rat B)
Looks good. Is it just me, or does it look like it’s about 1/2 an inch over too far to the left?,LOL! One good thing is that metal heats faster than plastic in the sun, and that is one of the things that can cause “shadowing”. So, since you have plastic spread to the edges, it may help reduce the possibility.
Just curious how this turned out??
Getting ready to glass it out to reduce ghosting.
Abraded it with 40 grit grinding disks went over with 80.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00099.JPG[/img][img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00101.JPG[/img]
Glassed
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00102.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00103.JPG[/img]
Some 80 Grit on the DA to feather out the edges.
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00104.JPG[/img]Then I went over that with some Fiberglass Reinforced Filler.
And feathered that out with some Rage gold.After working on it for a little while I threw some Epoxy on it to give me a better visual of how it’s going to look.
Well there were some pinholes, and a indentation on one side
(You can see near the front side of the scoop in this picture the blue glaze.)
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00106.JPG[/img]
So I fixed everything I noticed wrong, and blocked the whole hood out with the ol’ 36″ sanding block
And threw some more primer on it.
Well that glaze that was on that side rounded out more than I wanted to.Resulting in this: (Hard to take pictures of this)
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00109.JPG[/img][img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00108.JPG[/img]
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00110.JPG[/img]
In comparison to the other side which I squared off:
[img]http://www.ratstangrestoration.com/DSC00111.JPG[/img]
I know I’ve got to go back over and correct this.
But I’m sort of liking the feathering out on the passenger side compared to the squared on the driver side.
It seems to hide the straightness better. And it looks different, smoother.I’m debating on instead of squaring out this side again, if instead I’ll just round out the other side.
I figure it would be a lot easier that squaring.
Because with squaring you always have to watch every stroke to make sure the side of your paper isn’t putting a ditch into the 90* angle.It would be pretty simple.
Just do it like seam sealer. Tape up both sides, apply filler between the tape, drag my thumb across the filler and remove the tape. Then just hand sand the edges down.But what do you guys think?
Round it, or square it?
I know, you all think I’m :wak
But I just want opinions.
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