Toyota raw plastic
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Have a few questions regarding propper prepping of toyota raw covers. Most of them I do are tsop… the particular bumper I am having problems with is pp +ep . Which from what I’m told is poly proplene (common) with some kind of rubber mixed into it.. I use the one choice prep system and don’t have issues often but I have had a few. With this current bumper I can’t get paint to stick to it for the life of me. My rep tells me if water beads off it don’t paint it. Keep cleaning. Well I cleaned it about ten times wiped it down with alc. Used the one choice sponge and water continued to bead. My only answer to get it to sheet off was using 600. Ppg says nonsence one choice will do the job. Is this a rare plastic I’m dealing with? 600 is borderline needing primed on a raw cover. I do seal all covers etc. But this fail was epic. I stripped the entire bumper with my hands in about a min… I was told sometimes the mold release agent can sometimes be deep into the plastic? Aggrevated painter looking for help :cens
That one choice stuff is a joke. I would go back to the regular spray able adhesion promoter. It’s cheaper and works much better.
One thing you can do is bake the bumper first. Then wash it really well and prep it. Or washing with really hot water and detergent can help and/or use the presta scuff stuff.
There are some good aggressive waterbourne cleaners out there too that will help.
[quote=”thekansaskid” post=33192]I agree with ya on the one choice ben. But tying up my only booth just so I can prep a bumper I’m not fond of. But I will say its better than a redo if that’s what it takes. I am contimplating a different system/ adhesion promoter. What works for u?[/quote]
I wouldn’t baje just the bumper, but when you know you have one coming up just throw it in the booth on the bake cycle during the next job you paint
Everything I’ve read about polypropylene is that you are going to have to heat it and get the mold release to raise to the top and get it off. Might want to try baking it like Ben said or if you have some infrared lights they might work. I’ve even seen people lightly go over it with a torch.
September 18, 2013 at 6:11 am #44517IMO I think baking bumpers is a wives tale,most new bumpers are using a waterborne release agent so I have been told.I have done everything by the book and even baked a few and in the end some of them just peel :cens
Jay I would have to agree. After crossing off the laundry list of things ppg said to try and none of them worked. I honestly feel like the bumper I delt with today absolutely needed 600 and primer for the paint to stick. Ppg blamed toyota for a faulty bumper. Which I don’t think is the case. We will see tomorow. But one thing is for sure, ppg can’t deny I’m preppin them wrong now that we have cameras. Some of those tech reps wouldn’t make it cleanin a shitter at walmart. :teach
September 18, 2013 at 7:05 am #44519[quote=”Jayson M” post=33196]IMO I think baking bumpers is a wives tale,most new bumpers are using a waterborne release agent so I have been told.I have done everything by the book and even baked a few and in the end some of them just peel :cens[/quote]
x2 ive never baked one an have never had a peeler ever….dont think sand scratches do squat on plastic all it has ta have is a product that bites it with the wonders of chemistry in my system its 6249 i blow a coat of that an seal an shoot ya might try the stuff ben posted a link 2 in your system just my 2 cents :cheers[quote=”thekansaskid” post=33197]Jay I would have to agree. After crossing off the laundry list of things ppg said to try and none of them worked. I honestly feel like the bumper I delt with today absolutely needed 600 and primer for the paint to stick. Ppg blamed toyota for a faulty bumper. Which I don’t think is the case. We will see tomorow. But one thing is for sure, ppg can’t deny I’m preppin them wrong now that we have cameras. Some of those tech reps wouldn’t make it cleanin a shitter at walmart. :teach[/quote]
600 grit or any scratch is going to do nothing for adhesion to raw plastic. It’s all about the cleaning.
Polypropylene is pretty much what they make atv and dirt bike plastics with. I thought most bumpers were tpo. I’ve seen some local guys torch atv plastic to bring the mold release to the top. The ones they’ve done paint sticks to and the plastics are pressure washed on a regular basis. I think there are some videos on youtube of people doing atv’s. I will see if I can find ouf their exact process.
I’ve had the same problem. Less often with genuine OEM parts and more often with cheaper parts that are made in Asia and contain a percentage of recycled plastic. The paint simply will not stick! I understand that the problem is that the plastic is porous and the mould release agent gets into the pores.
I use Dupont products and went to them with the problem. They gave me 901R/907R Plastic Primer. Not sure if it’s available where you are but this stuff is magic. Needs special pre-treatment, heating to 60 deg C, then wash with water and soap and degrease with alcohol based cleaner. Scuff and paint, the primer is suitable for wet-on-wet so some time saved, or you can lightly sand after 2 hours at 20 deg C.
Solved the problem and now use it whenever there is any doubt about the plastic.
Happened to me on brand new fairings for Suzuki GSXR.. They are ABS and PP on parts that need to be flexible..
I wiled them with lacquer thinner at the end to get the mold release out of the way..
The ABS was not such of a problem but the PP was hell.. At the end I went with 400 grit sanded with DA and wiped with lacquer
thinner.. and applied primer etc..No baking no nothing everything went well..
Best thing I’ve found is Sikkens anti static cleaner with a gray scuff pad just spray the bumper down with the anti static cleaner scuff with scuff pad and rinse again with the anti static cleaner wipe off the bumper blow dry then stick it in the booth I’ve had no problems this way no matter what type of plastic
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