trans star no mix low voc base
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havent posted in quite a while but, have been spraying trans star no mix base pretty frequenttly, and it seems
no matter what I do I cannot put this stuff on without it looking like gravel… I have tried increasing my gun speed, slowing down, turning fan in/fluid, wide open, tried little extra reducer. Some of the time the roughness can be covered up with a couple nice coats of clear, but even still I will continue to have to use this base for some jobs and was wondering if any other guys on here have had problems with this base.. and what they did to get the base to lay down flatter.
Seems as if Nason lays out a little bit nicer for the economy bases, but both of these basecoats have not been very forgiving in the past.. and can be very hit or miss..thanks
btw using tekna 1.4 @ 24 psi most of the time.
i havent posted in a long time either. i have known a few people who have used this base and of the low voc type bases they have had nothing but good things to say about it. i dont recall anyone saying anything about it spraying dry and gritty. kinda strange. its not a 1:1 mix base that you are mixing 2:1 is it? other than gun issues, incorrect mix or incorrect temp reducer i dont have anything else useful to add since i have not used it myself. :unsure:
I know a couple of guys who use matrix ,carsystem urki low voc base coat systems,they said you needed to put in double the reducer to get it to spray and blend nice.I have no idea about the transtar but maybe it needs more reducer to improve sprayability???
my guess would be jayson is prob right. of all the low voc stuff i have sprayed it always need an extra bit of reducer.
Ya, the base is really thick. to get it to spray nice you need to over reduce it. at that point its no longer a low voc product so whats the point. i’ve heard of guys around here having delam issues with it as well
I am using the transtar no mix base. My work has had it for maybe 2 years. I have just taken over as our only painter this week. I have been over reducing it and it still goes on a little ruff. I have sprayed maybe 7-8 things so far. I might reduce it a bit more.
When I get some free time I’m gonna play with spraying some base with the different guns that around. The lv500 blending base seems the only thing that lays down nice.
Color match is horendous. painted 2 fords with UJ and the color has no variants, no color chip and isn’t even close. 2nd car I basically made my own, switched the 2 aluminum tints to change the metallic left out the blue and added green and way more black. I got it pretty close after 3 spray out cards. Last car was a nisssan rab blue, had no variants again and it was just wrong, blended it and its ok but have not seen it outside.
The last painter that we had was useless so I never really asked him what he was doing cause it was a flip of a coin whether it was done the first time no matter what paint was used.from my experience the best way to fight the seediness when spraying is to use a “high VOC” reducer. There is a ton of it out on the market labelled as “premium equip cleaner” or “urethane equip cleaner”. Its just a re-labelling game to beat the regs but its really just old school reducer.
if you use that stuff, the base will lay down like a dream. also mix @ 1:1.5
we also found if you use Limco LR12 in it as reducer it works equally well. No bumpy texture at all.
also when spraying wa8555 black, to fight the brownness, mix in some blue. I use a custom mix of 90% LV37 and 10% LV02
I’m gonna try some dupont reducer I have for clear in the transtar base tomorrow. I mixed some base with the reducer and it seemed ok and sprayed on a piece of paper and seemed good. Painting a 1/4 panel tomorrow, I was gonna use single stage nason but will try the base instead.
if its a Nason LVoc reducer it will perform identical to transtar or any other no voc reducer. All compliant reducers use a blend of the same 3 or 4 non-regulated solvents with the primary one being acetone. These solvents all flash off way too fast, which is what causes the seediness in what you spray. If you call a BASF jobber, ask for Limco LR-12 its a high VOC industrial reducer that’s primary ingredient is toluene, which is mostly what lacquer thinner is. the LR12 is water clear so no worries about yellowing. Its urethane grade.
The problem with the 0 voc reducers in no-mix is its the major reason for the delamination issues some have mentioned. what happens is you get a powder deposit on your base where it has dried and dry particles of paint have landed. its a real pain. I’ve sold hundreds of gallons of no-mix and had a hand full of delamination claims (about 4-5)
I don’t know who your jobber is out there, but ask around and see if anyone can sell you a urethane grade equipment cleaner, which is a 5 gallon pail of bulk reducer relabeled. if you can’t find any just message me and I’ll point you in the right direction. I know a couple big jobbers out in the GTA area.
you might also want to try southern poly clearcoat… I sell it in my store and its killer. It will outperform any other clear on the market, and I have the #’s to prove it.
Every shop I put it into never wants to use any other clearcoat. I’ve beat out glasurit, PPG, and premium dupont with southern. I have shops spraying 7-8 cars a day with it.
no dieback, not easy to pop, and really flexible yet easy to polish. Its a dream clear…My only issue with products is it can only come from one supplier unless I try through the aftermarket parts supplier we use. My work deals with contracts for all parts and supplies. Only one place bids on the paint side. They are dupont. They wanted us to do alot of upgrading to go water so it didn’t happen. I do fleet work. Most stuff does not have to be perfect. The 2 issues with the base are the texture and I seem to have the clear change when the clear dries just over the base, not sanded clear.
What I want to try is le-1075s reducer. I can order anything dupont if you know one that will be good. I’ll have to go look through there products.
just for laughs, try using a virgin lacquer thinner. not gun wash as its a recycled product. its probably labelled as lacquer tool and equip cleaner. you should be able to get that no problem from any jobber.
I did that in a pinch one day and it turned out sweet. I had a G6 to spray for a guy and when I showed up to spray it he had no reducer. I managed to spray the whole car and do a color change in 1.25 quarts of LV37 black. the base laid down so nice and smooth it was amazing… even though its kind of a no-no, I find myself doing it from time to time now for things that aren’t important.
Just pour the thinners in a cup first and make sure its not really yellow, some of the thinners out there these days are pretty crappy. Its such a tight margin on that stuff that they always look for the cheapest stuff they can find to make the products out of.
See if you can let get your manager to let you experiment a little bit, and if you want to have a phone call sometime maybe I can give you a little assistance with your clear problem. I’m not sure what you mean by your clear issue but I think you mean die back which is something I hear about with dupont’s nason line down here. I’m betting your also fighting orange peel issues too with that clear too.
don’t the new voc laws rock?? nothing is easy anymore.
so the only way to make a low voc solvent base to work is make it a high voc solvent. :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
LOL yep!
All my no-mix customers keep a 5 gallon bucket of high VOC “contraban” under their mix table and swear by it… so i just let them do what they gotta do and sell the base. whatever works I guess….
so whats the point. do you sell in a mandated low voc area? and if thats the case, why not just sell a product that works the way it is supposed to
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