Trying to get it perfectly straight
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hey guys, I am about ready to paint this car. It’s in primer now and during the guide coating trying to get it straight I have removed the primer back down the filler. Do I have to re prime it over and try to sand less to leave the whole car in primer?
Or, should I not worry about that and use a sealer and shoot the whole car just before painting? One thing about that is I haven’t used sealer before. Can I spray the car with the sealer and apply the base right over it with out sanding?
Last question…
I have the car really straight. Here is what I am doing and trying to achieve.
I wet sand the primer and take it up to 800 to get a good sheen so I can look down the side of the car but has a slight distortion when you look at something off in the distance. If you look at the phone pole for example, and weave your head back and forth you can see the pole has a [i]slight[/i] bend in it. My question is, after I sand it smooth and re apply more primer to cover the bare spot I have to sand the primer smooth again for paint and I take it off again.If I have it that close or can I just paint and clear the car like normal and use a longer block over the clear to get it laser perfect?
I am concerned about sanding the clear after I paint because I am using a pearl in my clear on the second stage and pure clear for the third stage. If I go through the clear and hit the pearl clear, will that be hard to match again?
Thanks guys. 😉
If you are putting your pearl in a mid coat and put 2-3 coats of clear over it you wont cut through. Or at least you should not unless you do some crazy sanding or have to fix a run. I would only prime where is needed, so you dont have to prime and sand the whole car again.
Just reprime your break throughs then prep it for paint again. The sealer should be used as a wet on wet. Apply the sealer, let it flash, then base and clear.
ya can put a cloth glove on your hand or use a clean rag an run your hand over the surface ta see if ya still have an a$$hole in it sometimes ya just gotta go back into it an get ruff ta get it perfect dont feel bad it happens to all of us :unsure: :unsure: your hand is the best tool ya have even b4 ya prime if ya can feel it it will show the rag or glove helps amplify the defects 😉 ya aint gonna block no wobble out in the clear sorry get it right before using color ya wont regret it :teach
thanks guys.
you answered a few questions.
As for the glove over the hand trick Bondo, the panel is so straight you cant feel anything. If fact when you look at it, it looks really nice. What I am talking about is the very slight movement when you weave your head back and forth. It’s really slight but visible on Black and other dark colors. That’s what I was wanting to know if that can be blocked out after clear?
I have used a guide coat and there is nothing left after sanding. But when I stand back and look down the side I can still see a tiny weave. What am I doing wrong?
I am going to use my camcorder and try to show you guys. It’s so slight, but I’ll try.
perhaps the panel needs a backing pad … is it a little “oil can” cause when it can’t handle the pressure of the blocking the soft spot will remain high :unsure:
No the rear quarter panels are rigid. I have that problem on the two front fenders. What is a backing pad? Is it something that you stick on the back side that stiffens the panel?
I took a video but and it is taking a long time to up load. Maybe tonight?
basically a shingle that sticks on the back side http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-european-sound-deadening-panels-0890100060.html
okay, I am feed up with trying to get this stupid video to work. Here it is. For some reason the sound doesn’t work. What I am saying in the video is if you look at the chair in the reflection you can see the wave I am talking about. The spot where you see the primer sanded off is not the problem area. Follow the left leg on the chair reflection and you can see the problem. I have done the area three times and cant get it right.
Any tips would be great.
[URL=http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll228/67ls1vert/mustang%20body%20video/?action=view¤t=march112010001.flv][IMG]http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll228/67ls1vert/mustang%20body%20video/th_march112010001.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
hmmmmmm …. i’m thinking that the low spots are a result of a high spot which is your soft spot in between the two lows and you need a backing pad or a shrink :unsure: and remember , the coarser the paper , the straighter the cut. 😉
I think I see the problem.
The legs on the stool are crooked. Try catching the reflection of a stool with straighter legs. :whistle:
But seriously, if its got a wave in it that’s bothering you, just skim it wither filler and reblock.
Yeah, I agree, I thought the bar stool legs were bent so I tossed in it it the trash!
I think that I am going to sand it 80 grit and spread another fine coat of glazing putty and try to re-shape it.
It kills me when I have it so close and almost ready for paint. I know it will bug me if I dont get it perfect before paint.
Thanks again guys.
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