tu-tone with waterbourn ?
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we use lesonal wb. I was wondering how others that use wb deal with multi colors? Sometimes theres glue left on the edges when unmasking and I dont know the best way to get it off without taking off some of the colo . Water based cleaners wont take off the glue and if I use solvent based cleaners, it will soften and take off the wb even if I wait a day to clean off the glue. anybody got any suggestions? The tape I’m using is 3m blue vinyl and 3m yellow masking. I’ve tried putting a coat of wb clear (like an intercoat clear) over the color to help protect it, didnt help
with rm onyx I usually have to wait an hour to mask the second color but never had an issue with the 3m tape, i use the yellow also. what basf recommends is applying an over-reduced clear (real 2k clear) over your first color, let it dry an hour or so and then do your next one, I haven’t had any major problems doing it normally though. :cheers
I’ve done quite a few with water. Currently using Sikkens Autowave (basically the same as Lessonal WB). Do as Jimmo said and let the base have a long flash, or if you have the facilities to, bake the base for 20 minutes. We use the Purple 3M vinyl tape (looks like the blue fine line) but is meant for waterborne. No residue with that. Also, you may want to keep a roll of the green 3M tape around for this rather than the yellow…might work a little better.
I don’t know how to remove any tape residue with the water as I have never had any left behind.
Get the new tape from 3M 6528 series and put it all behind you. It will leave a cleaner edge than the fine line and release easy from the base without adhesive transfer. Its a pale green colored tape. I’ve been using it three months and zero issues.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=26726]Get the new tape from 3M 6528 series and put it all behind you. It will leave a cleaner edge than the fine line and release easy from the base without adhesive transfer. Its a pale green colored tape. I’ve been using it three months and zero issues.[/quote]
Do you have a link for this tape???I can’t find it online…..thanks
J,
pm me your address and I’ll send you some.
ok, this is what I did. I painted an escape all over black and cleared it. sanded that down, taped a bunch of graphics,I had to cut the tape in a lot of places where the graphics criss crossed. I sprayed 2 pearl coats then a few light coats of the wb clear (intermix), then untaped it and most of the glue was at the corners and intersections, also the blue tape (it was the purple tape)leaves a haze where it was stuck to the sanded clear.
I’ve done this all before, including airbrushing with wb, on a smaller scale (motorcycle parts), and I used dbc 500 for protection over the wb, and everything was fine and I can clean with solvent or water base before final 2k clear. But the local paint rep says I should use a clear thats heavy in iso’s over wb or there might be adhesion problems. We were using lesonal universal clear over solvent base but when we switched to wb, we had to go to glamor clear.
I think that would be a lot of extra work to use a 2k clear over the graphics, then untape then sand and clear the whole thing, not to mention the edge build up.
I’ll try that new green tape.
are you guys using a hardener in your base coat, or not? I would imagine you can use the Autowave hardener in there, which may help.
R1,
Switch to Universal LV, you’ll be much happier.
I NEVER add hardener to AWMM or LWB, I see no need.
[quote=”Red Baron” post=26733]R1,
Switch to Universal LV, you’ll be much happier.
I NEVER add hardener to AWMM or LWB, I see no need.[/quote]
x2
I could not agree with this any more.
X3 I will admit for 3-4 months I tried religiously to use hardener in every color I sprayed.What I found after playing with different % amounts that it was harder to blend,sprayed like ass,took longer to flash,increased tape time on 2 tones.I will not use it anymore and spray it different ly to compensate for the few problems that we had.You also need to be careful if you bake your base so you can tape faster,you can loose all your adhesion.
I used to use hardeners with solvent and as far as I know the OEM’s still recommend them in water, I assume they still contribute to better adhesion/holdout and would be better for two tones…solvent i found that was certainly the case. My rep told me with the Onyx that if you added hardener it always stayed sticky and you couldn’t tack it so we figured lets skip that headache. I’m getting the itch to toss the BASF and see what else is out there.
[quote=”jimmo” post=26738]I used to use hardeners with solvent and as far as I know the OEM’s still recommend them in water, I assume they still contribute to better adhesion/holdout and would be better for two tones…solvent i found that was certainly the case. My rep told me with the Onyx that if you added hardener it always stayed sticky and you couldn’t tack it so we figured lets skip that headache. I’m getting the itch to toss the BASF and see what else is out there.[/quote]
wont you be getting dupont soon. the boys over at abol rave about it :whistle:Ya, we’ll have to switch to Dupont soon. I still wouldn’t mind shooting some other brands to see what i’m missing. :hunt
By the sounds of it, I am one of the few who is not hating the hardener in the water base…
Jimmo, with the Sikkens, the base does seem to dry up nice and hard with the hardener. It doesn’t stay tacky/gummy for long.
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