Uncleared water base
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I may be wrong in my thinking but I know with standoblue there is a hardener for underhood. It wouldn’t be best practice but I think for regular collision repair especially down low on the vehicle it would be every bit as good as factory. We are looking into water and this is something I’m gonna find out for sure.
Sorry for coming back so late and being off topic, but yes nft5 I’m saying that some waterborne paints are soluble when exposed to more extreme conditions. I know here in Ireland we get a lot of damp rainy weather along with car washing has been proved to dissolve waterborne basecoat no matter what the paint companies say, I’ve seen it a few times and heard from other trade friends.
Products with reducers give more physical properties like durability and adhesion in these instances than a pure de ionised water.
Though a lot of companies have a clear water like reducer not to be mistaken with de ionised water.
Bonnet fronts , rear wheel arches and at the rear of the sill panel where the back wheel throws up stones are the most common areas that I seem affected with both painted in de beer and sikkens, I’m not knocking these products and I don’t know if they were painted correctly in the beginning but known the people who done the jobs, they’re pretty goodI feel that this is also a problem that has been kept kinda quiet :whistle: Waterborne has been used in my area for about 7 years and its out there I call it “creep” The water creeps into a stonechip and peels the paint away from the sealer. For some reason this dosent hapen very often, and I have only seen it at my shop 3 or 4 times in 7 years. There is no way I would leave un cleared waterborne to the elements hardened or not it does not have a very good mechanicial or chemicial hold out neither does solvent basecoat for that matter.
[quote=”jim” post=31495]I feel that this is also a problem that has been kept kinda quiet :whistle: Waterborne has been used in my area for about 7 years and its out there I call it “creep” The water creeps into a stonechip and peels the paint away from the sealer. For some reason this dosent hapen very often, and I have only seen it at my shop 3 or 4 times in 7 years. There is no way I would leave un cleared waterborne to the elements hardened or not it does not have a very good mechanicial or chemicial hold out neither does solvent basecoat for that matter.[/quote]
Hey Jim what brand of waterbase are you using?
Standox standoblue, but I have herd of it at other shops both sickens and sherwin. The funny thing is that it usually dosent do this. and I have only herd of it on plastic bumpers. I must say that the standoblue is a really nice paint.
Up here I have heard DuPont jobs and PPG jobs peeling. I’ve seen Sikkens ones peel from a previous painter. We started using the hardener in the base to prevent it, when I was using Sikkens.
I was unofficially told that many problems were possibly caused (or aggravated) by the painter not allowing the base to fully dehydrate before clearing.
I have a Motorcycle I painted with Cromax about 5 years ago, no peeling. My brothers car, I painted the 1/4 with Autowave 2 years ago, no problems (no hardener in the base either). Wheel well still looks good…even with stone chips.
Like I say this is a very rare problem at my shop 3 or 4 in 7 years I harden and bake dry all of my basecoat,
I have 0 comebacks in over 3 years due to paint failure using PPG’s water, the stuff is durable as hell, i have let the stuff dry on a paint stick for a couple of days and couldnt scrub it off if i wanted to, even on my own personal truck i touched up some stone chips with just base and no clear and it is holding up fine over a year now. Find it very hard to believe but maybe if its not completely dry before clear it could be a possibility.
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