Waterborne – What to do?
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Hi Guys,
I’ve got to roll my project car in and get it painted ASAP. With the front end damage that I was recently gifted, I’d like to get rolling on it instead of having it rust outside. I’ve searched and the dominant opinion seems to be that it is not advisable to spray the “new” waterborne paints in a garage and as I like this car I don’t want to spary it with SW Dimension as it’s not very durable.
I’ve heard that there are some solvent paints coming back into Canada soon that are complient and would work. If I rigged up some fans (doing a complete) is this going to turn out like :sick: or is this really no big deal?
Water will work fine in a garage. I spray on the shop floor with a older prep station all the time. Works just fine. Buy a couple of cheap box fans to help dry.
Of the ones I have used I would want Sikkens or PPG if spraying in a garage. I can see Dupont/Spies/Standox being a bit trickier to pull off.
ryanbrown999,
Do you think one can pull off spraying a fender or maybe a hood with waterborne in a garage? (Sikkens)
Yes you can paint a hood or a fender in a garage as long as you have some type of air movement(box fan etc)
Canuck why don’t you look at the possibility of getting single stage for your repair?It would work great on a solid color.[quote=”Jayson M” post=19857]Yes you can paint a hood or a fender in a garage as long as you have some type of air movement(box fan etc)
Canuck why don’t you look at the possibility of getting single stage for your repair?It would work great on a solid color.[/quote]I could do it in a single stage – it’s not a metalic. I’ve got to do the entire car at this point (there are about three colours on it now!). Are single stages going to remain solvent based?
Yes single stage urethane,think of it as clear with pigment 😉 Go talk to the boys at offshore,u-tech 3.5 is your friend.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19869]Yes single stage urethane,think of it as clear with pigment 😉 Go talk to the boys at offshore,u-tech 3.5 is your friend.[/quote]
Thanks Jayson – will do. Is this the best single stage to spray or is there something that is better? I’m not really happy with the SW Ultra 7000 that I shot before. It just didn’t seem to be very durable.
We have used u-tech for the last 12 years and it is tough as nails,use it on semis and cars.It is a polyurethane,about as durable as you can get.Buy some and do a scrap fender and see what you think,I’m sure you will like it,and it is a breeze to spray.
[quote=”zarbat007″ post=19856]ryanbrown999,
Do you think one can pull off spraying a fender or maybe a hood with waterborne in a garage? (Sikkens)[/quote]
Yup, and just as Jayson said you will need some air movement. Cheap box fans are your friend.
hmmmm interesting 😛
so while were on the subject …..
whats the diference in application from solvent to water …. how dose it blend ?
thanks
tommy
[quote=”turbo t” post=19885]hmmmm interesting 😛
so while were on the subject …..
whats the diference in application from solvent to water …. how dose it blend ?
thanks
tommy[/quote]
Water should blend easier. Application is really dependant on brand.
This is about the biggest job I’ve painted in WB in a garage, and it turned out fine.
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/Corolla/P1000554Large.jpg[/IMG]
Again it has to be said – air movement is the key, but not so much that it blows the dust around.
For my “after hours” work, I’ve actually started using a salon style hair dryer for the basecoat. They give lots and lots of air movement and a bit of heat. Perfect for drying water borne base. Large areas take a while, but 1-2 panel jobs can be dried nearly as quick as they can in my booth.
Tommy – Once you’ve got used to water, you won’t want to go back to solvent!
So it is possible, but not advised. I’m guessing that the boundary layer of air needs to be moved to ensure the water can evaporate/flash. Why do you prefer water to solvent (To Andy)? I’ll be doing the car in a solvent, but they will stop producing it at some point.
it dries just as if not quicker, the blends are are super easy, it lays flater, and the mets. pop more. down side it’s more expensive.
[quote=”Canuck” post=19900] Why do you prefer water to solvent (To Andy)? [/quote]
As lild says, WB can be made to dry even quicker than solvent base, without the worries of solvent entrapment. And while it depends a little on the brand, as a general rule it’s actually easier to get a great finish out of WB, and I also feel it’s a little more forgiving if your technique isn’t quite up to scratch.And you’re right about the drying. You don’t need to blast the base with air to get it dry (although it dries even faster that way once you’ve let it flash a little 😉 ), but you simply need to move the saturated boundary layer of air that’s over the panel so that evaporation can continue. In a booth with good airflow (particularly a downdraft) you tend to find blowers aren’t a necessity as the natural air flow does the work. Again though, adding turbulence with either hand held blowers, fans, or whatever, speeds the drying process even further.
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