Waterborne – What to do?
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Excellent information Andy. I picked up a little paint job for a friend and am trying out the U-tech 3.5 that Jayson suggested. It’s good to have other people paying for my practice:whistle: . Let’s see how it goes – what would I do with out you Jayson? Thanks again:clappy .
Just make sure you get some accelerator for the 3.5,it can be a little slow to dry.Make sure you have some heat in your shop,put your first coat on medium wet and wait for it to be dry to the touch before you apply your second or else it will be on the floor 😛 If you have any questions just ask 😉
[quote=”Jayson M” post=19951]Just make sure you get some accelerator for the 3.5,it can be a little slow to dry.Make sure you have some heat in your shop,put your first coat on medium wet and wait for it to be dry to the touch before you apply your second or else it will be on the floor 😛 If you have any questions just ask ;)[/quote]
How do you know it will end up on the floor :whistle:I have been down that road before Dinger :rofl :rofl :stoned
OK, thanks for the tip. I thought the 3.8 was slow and the guys at Off-Shore warned me that the 3.5 is slower still. I’ll crank up the heat – hey, 2 coats or 3 while I’m asking?
Well, that SUCKED – I did the best I could with the 3.5 and ended up with orange peel that is just a little excessive. I hate trying out new products every time I paint. The weather took a nose dive and my buddies garage is NOT set up like mine for paint. Not exactly the best of all circumstances, but I was hoping for more. The 3.5 took forever to be hand slick, coverage is excellent with 2 coats, but my Iwata LPH400 1.3 didn’t like it at all. I had the fluid needle backed all the way out and with the fan dialed down to about 10″ at 6″ or so off the surface, it was spraying like ceiling texture. I had to go so slow it was painful. I had the pressure at the gun set to 16 psi – just couldn’t get it to work very well.
Now I’m stressing about using it on my car? What’s the gun set up? Do I reserve the Iwata for B/C and get something else? New fluid tip (1.4?) – sh!t…changing all the variables. HEEELP
The LPH is painfully slow IMO. It works well for MS clears and basecoats when paired with the correct aircap. If I was shooting SS with an Iwata I would want at least a 1.4 and perferably a compliant model like the W400lv. If you plan on using it for an all over you might want to think about a new nozzle for yours. The good news is if you wanted to covert yours to a W400lv with a 1.4 all you would need is a nozzle and aircap. The needle and gun bodies are identical. In the states a needle and aircap would run a little over $200.
Also try warming up the paint next time you spray. SS does well when it isn’t cold.
What would you suggest…I’m looking at a Sata jet 3000 RP 1.4. I hope it isn’t too fast. The garage temp was all over the place as it flipping snowed when I was trying to do this job! Kind of tough to open the door and get some air flow when the it’s 24 degrees C in the “booth” and -5 C outside. I didn’t have a choice, but what a gong show. I was really careful not to lay it on too wet as I’d been warned – but it was very slow and it didn’t atomize well at all. It’s not the paints fault – it covered great and seems tough as nails…it was me and the gun this time.
Sorry you had troubles,that can be very frustrating.Like Ryan has suggested an lph is just not that great of a gun for high solids materials,also 16 psi at the gun is to low,many people have said that gun works better with more air pressure like 25-30psi.Unfortunately it sounds like the temp and your gun gave you the most trouble.A sata 3000rp with a 1.4 is a pretty fast gun but it does an excellent job with single stage urethane.I agree with ryan you might be better off converting that gun to the compliant w-400 😉
That’s what learning is all about! Coming from the SW line, it’s completely different. I’ve shot the single stage SW with the Iwata without issue at 16 psi. I just didn’t know what the heck to do with this stuff. It was so slow and I didn’t have the tech sheet (putting together a binder today) so I didn’t know if I could thin it to help out or jack the pressure. Last thing I needed was it drooling all over the floor! If I get the jet – I’ll be looking for a test panel for sure before I try to lay it on a car again. As I don’t do this all the time, when things go south I try to not make a mess. I can deal with the peel later if it bugs him (and it would bug me – looks like a new Ford truck for texture!).
Little cut and buff sounds like all you need.
But yeah, the LPH can be a little slow for some Clears.U-tech is a pretty high solids product, so it can be a little more difficult to spray if your used to lower solids products. I can’t really answer if the sata would be better for you or not. I like both guns, the Sata more so, but the W400 is a nice gun. You already have the Iwata, so if money is tight I would convert your LPH. One advantage to the Iwata is you will be dealing with considerably less overspray than the RP. In a garage setting this is a good thing. Also you have to move at a good pace with a RP, so if you are not real comfortable painting, moving at a slower pace is a good thing.
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20049]U-tech is a pretty high solids product, so it can be a little more difficult to spray if your used to lower solids products. I can’t really answer if the sata would be better for you or not. I like both guns, the Sata more so, but the W400 is a nice gun. You already have the Iwata, so if money is tight I would convert your LPH. One advantage to the Iwata is you will be dealing with considerably less overspray than the RP. In a garage setting this is a good thing. Also you have to move at a good pace with a RP, so if you are not real comfortable painting, moving at a slower pace is a good thing.[/quote]
That was the reason for getting the LPH (garage painter) and I’ve really liked the transfer efficiency of this gun. I’ve got a line on an RP for a pretty good price (under $400). Tax time, so if it solves my issues for a product that works better for me I don’t mind spending the money. On the U-tech sheet, it says that if I cut the product I have to clear it. For the price difference, I wouldn’t mind having both around – I’ve got some plans for moving a lot of air in my garage.
Anyone spray the U-Tech 2.8?
One thing to think about is low overspray really true? Now if you are spraying a complete or whatever in your garage an hvlp is going to take longer vs using a reduced pressure gun.The difference in time per coat can result in more overspray with the hvlp vs the reduced pressure gun due to the fact you will be spraying longer with the hvlp.Unfortunately your LPH 400 is going to be useless in our area due to all products(EVEN SW)are now low voc high solids,and a 1.3 hvlp will make it difficult to achieve good results.For myself I like a 1.4rp or 3000rp to spray single stage,but I am a fast sprayer with a heated booth.Like ryan said you might be better off converting your lph for about half the price of the $400rp.If you want a 3000rp I think you would be more suited to a 1.3
Utech 2.8 is even more high solids than 3.5,so I wouldn’t even try it if I were you in a garage.Now 3.5 can work very well but you need to put 1 oz of 994 accelerator per sprayable litre or it will be slow(did you do that :P) in an air dry evvironment with little air flow.Try to get out of the habit of thinking that if you aprayed brand x this way it should work with brand y,if you need help over the phone before you spray next time PM me.Good luck next time.[quote=”Jayson M” post=20051]One thing to think about is low overspray really true? Now if you are spraying a complete or whatever in your garage an hvlp is going to take longer vs using a reduced pressure gun.The difference in time per coat can result in more overspray with the hvlp vs the reduced pressure gun due to the fact you will be spraying longer with the hvlp.Unfortunately your LPH 400 is going to be useless in our area due to all products(EVEN SW)are now low voc high solids,and a 1.3 hvlp will make it difficult to achieve good results.For myself I like a 1.4rp or 3000rp to spray single stage,but I am a fast sprayer with a heated booth.Like ryan said you might be better off converting your lph for about half the price of the $400rp.If you want a 3000rp I think you would be more suited to a 1.3
Utech 2.8 is even more high solids than 3.5,so I wouldn’t even try it if I were you in a garage.Now 3.5 can work very well but you need to put 1 oz of 994 accelerator per sprayable litre or it will be slow(did you do that :P) in an air dry evvironment with little air flow.Try to get out of the habit of thinking that if you aprayed brand x this way it should work with brand y,if you need help over the phone before you spray next time PM me.Good luck next time.[/quote]All great points – the 1.4 sold, so I’ll start looking for a 1.3. I wasn’t made aware of the accelerator (boys at Off Shore should have tried to make more of a sale :deadhorse ). It’s not a habit to think that one thing will work – I’m just surprised by the difference between the products. Changing every minute is difficult when you spray once in a while. I’m getting the gist on the low VOC stuff high solids stuff :teach. I’ll get the hang of it as long as you guys still reading.
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