wet on wet?? how to do it right?
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i heard of this sometimes…but i was never taught how to do it properly..
say if i have a panel with a small ding or some deep scraches
i sand it with p240 and fill with bogs
sand with p240 n p400 at last then i scotch the whole panelmy question is…..
is this kind of panel OK for wet on wet?
how do i mix the primer (2k or 1k)?
and do i spray the primer? is it just like spraying the paint? (med coat, wet coat) how many coats, etc?because i tried once on my friend’s car. it’s silver…
and i got a rough paint on the edge of the primer.
when i paint the silver…the metalic wont lay properly.any comments is appreciated
thanks :rockWet on Wet Primer is designed for new panels.
I.e. new
bonnets (hoods)
doors
tailgates etc etc
It is a process used to speed up painting of new undamaged panels.
Not all primers/surfacers can be used wet on wet
if you have a dual primer i.e. for repair and wet on wet there will be two separate mixing ratio’s.
Wet and wet mix is a lot thinner, and you spray it like topcoat nice and even and wet.
Less is better where wet and wet is concerned the less material on the panel the less drop on gloss you will get
If you are filling anything you should cover it with a good 2k urethane primer, sprayed as per the TDS for that product. It should be blocked/sanded after curing or drying overnight.
If you are talking about wet on wet primer then it is referred to as sealer. Sealer is used to put a barrier coat between incompatible materials, sometimes give a little corrossion protection and increase adhesion. And in some cases can be used to help in hiding if the correct value shade is mixed. Sealer will fill in minor imperfections such as coarser sand scratches (like 400). Sealer is usually sprayed as 1-2 medium-medium wet coats. As always, refer to the proper TDS for the product.
Good posts Nick and Ben.
If you have filler (bog) showing you prob should not go wet on wet as you might get a halo effect of the repair area. :sick:
I have used epoxy primer [b]unsuccessfully[/b] on filler in a non sanding sealer manner to experience this outline effect (halo).
However I have used 5-Star epoxy/hybrid primer [b]successfully[/b] with a 220 or finer scratch to go [b]non-sanding sealer[/b] (not wet on wet) over bare metal and small bare filler spots with success. You spray a couple medium wet coats giving 10-15 min flash between coats…wait 30 minutes then topcoat.If you let it dry and sand it loads up a little dry sanding but does much better wet sanding.
On most all occasions, with exceptions to minor sand throughs in final sanding, I shoot the bare filler with urethane and let it dry (like Ben said). Takes more time but makes a better repair IMO.
The 5 star can be mixed 3 ways:
4:1 High Build 2.2 tip…never used it this way.
4:1:1 Med Build 1.8 tip…3 med wet coats fill 180 easy then wet sand next day (over nite).
4:1:2 Non-sanding sealer 1.5-1.8 tip 2 med wet coats (one coat to cover small 400-600 sand throughs that expose metal and/or filler).You can [b]reduce this with urethane or acetone[/b] whichever you have. I like proper temp urethane.
I have been using this primer occasionally for 3+ years. It is DTM by the way..duh!
Try a quart of this if you are spot or panel painting.
http://www.azautobodysupply.com/xtditomeprfi.html Primer.
http://www.azautobodysupply.com/ditomeprfiac1.html Activator.P.S. I gotta number in NY if you want gallons…I buy it this way. Much cheaper.
Ask for Junior…888-paint-44i should clarify wet on wet is a European phrase and it does not really mean as it sounds wet on wet there is still a flash off between primer and basecoat.
For example we describe spies hecker’s vario as a wet and wet primer
But you chaps probably call it sealer/surfacer so it really is just the same product just called different names.
Language barrier lol
Jefftso just out of interest what is your procedure for painting new undamaged panels.
Good point Nick.
I think somebody around here might actually shoot some products labeled wet on wet without any flash.
:blink:thanks for all the comments…
ye stick to the proper procedure is the only way eh
i love the way u guys explain, it has so much details.we hardly get any new panels to paint in my shop
mostly some 2nd hand parts with little damages..
so i just wonder if i could fix it and put it in the booth straight away.
this why i was asking .
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