Where is the dirt coming from??
- This topic has 16 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 9 months ago by .
- Posts
First off Hello everyone my name is Ryan and yes im Canadian eh! this is a great site ya have going and the info is endless so hats to you guys. I have been around painting cars since I could walk myself into my Dads shop as a kid and its a true passion, so to be able to provide for my family painting cars and getting paid to do it is like making it to the NHL to some. I have just started at a new (to me) shop and we have 3 booths and the one I have is a semi down draft and i am a complete neat freak so for the first week I had to clean EVERYTHING to my standards and I feel I have done everything to my booth and myself and I am still loosing hours nibbin dirt out of my work and needless to say i am getting very frustrated and now im turning to my trusty site for some input thanks again guys and girls :cheers
Welcome to the site :cheers Maybe tell us your procedures and maybe we can help.
Do you wash the cars before they start work and before they go into the booth?
Do you mask to keep dirt contained and not fly into your clear?
Do you wipe the jambs before masking?
How much do you blow and tack etc?
Do you use an anti-stat wipe/tack rags?
Some booths are just dirty no matter what you do,I assume it has been cleaned,wall coated(some wall coats that stay tacky can help)fresh filters etc.Can you balance the booth?If it has too much pressure or not enough this can cause swirling and pick up dirt.What type of masking paper are you using?
How old is the hose from the filter to the gun?
Since you are Canadian, it could be the flannel paint suits you guys wear. :lol1
My jobs start with me feather edging the bodymens work to prime,then block sand prep and refinish.As soon as I get my job I blow off the entire vehicle OTO the panels being sprayed then sand mask and prime st2 block sand blow off with tack rag then put in booth mask off area with 18″wide paper then plastic off of paper (ran into a problem few years ago with plastic taped to edge of area being painted)then blow off wipe down with M600 then mix blender tack off then spray blender. mix color tack spray turn blowers on then tack after coverage ,tack myself and clear. The booth is coated with booth coat that stays tacky and I also hasve just started using that Devilbiss dust control floor spray.I also wear full suit hood up,gloves,and respirator. Thanks for the concern Jayson M.
[quote=”hating-painting” post=34045]What type of masking paper are you using?
How old is the hose from the filter to the gun?
Since you are Canadian, it could be the flannel paint suits you guys wear. :lol1[/quote]
HaHa dont forget the Long johns and tuque
But in all seriousness I never really thought about the hose I wipe it down but its old .
Change your hose,change the desicant in your air filtration before the booth(if you have it)clean your blowers(if you have the portable blowers on stands,the screens fill with junk)use an anti stat wipe.
I clean my filters on my blowers with my base gun after every job just routine , I can control the air balance in the booth been keeping an eye on that and makiuing the adjustments to keep it in the blue. I will change my hose and the anti static wipe how long after doing this step should I wait to start spraying my blender and sealing ? I was also wondering if I am waiting long enough after clearing before I turn the bake on ? cause that’s a lot of moving air when that kicks in .
What kind of blowers?the ones built into the booth like the junair quads that come on with a bake/ramp cycle?Are the vehicles washed?What kind of materials are you using?
All Materials are Sikkens system . the blowers are cheaper brand but blow air .
[quote=”PaintGunMassacre” post=34048]But in all seriousness I never really thought about the hose I wipe it down but its old .[/quote]
The constant bake cycles breaks down the insides of some hoses.
I usually change mine out yearly.Might try coated paper too. Sometimes you get loose fibers off the non coated paper.
Flash time before bake depends on the clear. Some are immediate, others are up to 15 min.
Do you also wipe the car down with a waterborne degreaser such as Autoclean 1.28? Between the solvent degreaser and blow tacking you could have static built up.
Like everyone else said a new hose wont hurt and airline filters as jayson stated could be an issue if old.
[quote=”PaintGunMassacre” post=34050]I was also wondering if I am waiting long enough after clearing before I turn the bake on ? cause that’s a lot of moving air when that kicks in .[/quote]
Are the jobs clean before you start the bake cycle? Have you ever let on air dry to see how it turns out
I have found over the years most of the contamination nibs that appear are actually already on the vehicle, clean clean.
Also blow and tack your masking around the area that you are painting
Airborne dirt can often be caused by excessive negative pressure in the spraybooth, when the top filters become blocked even though they still look reasonable clean, the booth will try and draw air from anywhere it can personnel doors front etc.
A good clue to excessive negative pressure is when booth [u]is on spray[/u] and you open the personnel door slightly if you feel a big rush of air hitting you as you are holding the door ajar by maybe six or eight inches, this is a good sign your booth is needing some attention. Your magnehelic gauge should aslo tell you this information
When you say dirt are you seeing dark specks, or dried clear from your gun?
I have seen air hose breakdown from age leaving tiny bits of rubber in the finish.
I would start with those two and see what happens.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.