Which paint gun would you use?
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Hi everyone.
Just a re-intro:I’m a hobbyist, been lurking most of the time. I check on here almost every night and have been doing lots of reading.
I haven’t really painted anything past 2-3 years since the introduction of waterborne here in Canada. First time I used Sikkens Autowave, definitely did not have a good start with it. :lol1
But 2 weeks ago, I decided to give waterborne another try when I was asked to paint a faded trunk. This time I used PPG Aquabase Plus and had great results *knock on wood*. It was hot and humid, but it came out great. I paint in a garage (no booth) and did not have a single dirt on the basecoat while I was helping it flash with a hair dryer. I was happy! I love painting. :rock
___________________________________________I was asked to paint the sides also. Its a coupe, the quarter panel needs to be pained and blended into the door (BMW A08 gilvergray mettalic).
I have the following guns:
1. Iwata LPH400 with both LV4 and LVX caps (silver and orange). 1.4
2. Sata 3000 RP 1.3
3. Sata 3000 HVLP 1.3
I have almost 3 liters of Lesonal ProAir clear left. In my experience, it needs a 1.4 tip for decent results. So the Iwata will be used for that.
That leaves the RP and HVLP Satas.
I’ve read a few comments that when it comes to waterbase, the RP guns do a better job. Is this true? I used the HVLP for the trunk project but I figure when painting the side of a car, I’d use the better option. (whichever it is).Also a few unrelated Qs: :blush:
1. I have a gallon kit of Nason 465 high image clearcoat. Is it “waterborne safe”?
2. I remember some Sikkens paints have short shelf-life once mixed. (One week, sometimes even 24 hours etc). Is this the same case with PPG? (BMW A08)Thanks for the help and sorry about the rather long thread. :blush:
[quote=”zarbat007″ post=32555]Hi everyone.
Just a re-intro:I’m a hobbyist, been lurking most of the time. I check on here almost every night and have been doing lots of reading.
I haven’t really painted anything past 2-3 years since the introduction of waterborne here in Canada. First time I used Sikkens Autowave, definitely did not have a good start with it. :lol1
But 2 weeks ago, I decided to give waterborne another try when I was asked to paint a faded trunk. This time I used PPG Aquabase Plus and had great results *knock on wood*. It was hot and humid, but it came out great. I paint in a garage (no booth) and did not have a single dirt on the basecoat while I was helping it flash with a hair dryer. I was happy! I love painting. :rock
___________________________________________I was asked to paint the sides also. Its a coupe, the quarte 😉 r panel needs to be pained and blended into the door (BMW A08 gilvergray mettalic).
I have the following guns:
1. Iwata LPH400 with both LV4 and LVX caps (silver and orange). 1.4
2. Sata 3000 RP 1.3
3. Sata 3000 HVLP 1.3
I have almost 3 liters of Lesonal ProAir clear left. In my experience, it needs a 1.4 tip for decent results. So the Iwata will be used for that.
That leaves the RP and HVLP Satas.
I’ve read a few comments that when it comes to waterbase, the RP guns do a better job. Is this true? I used the HVLP for the trunk project but I figure when painting the side of a car, I’d use the better option. (whichever it is).Also a few unrelated Qs: :blush:
1. I have a gallon kit of Nason 465 high image clearcoat. Is it “waterborne safe”?
2. I remember some Sikkens paints have short shelf-life once mixed. (One week, sometimes even 24 hours etc). Is this the same case with PPG? (BMW A08)Thanks for the help and sorry about the rather long thread. :blush:[/quote]
From my personal experience I would suggest the sata hvlp setup as it lays the metallic down softly especially for that BMW SILVER. You could even use the iwata considering you have the lvx air cap which is great for base.
Thanks for the reply.
I’ve been to 5 local bodyshops who use PPG waterborne and all of them were using “RP” style guns. Supernova, Sata RP, W400, etc. Hence why I decided to ask here.
Many guys are using a tekna with a 7e7 cap for waterborne these days with sikkens ppg dupont basf SW etc.
Thanks for reply Jayson M.
I have seriously considered selling the SATA HVLP and replacing it with the Tekna copper after reading all these raves about it.
I just can’t get myself to sell the Sata. Been looking around ebay for a decent deal. Sounds like a very good gun for the money, especially since it comes with 1.3 and 1.4 tips.
From what I understand, 7E7 is the compliant/”RP” cap. In your opinion, does a compliant cap do a better job spraying waterborne paint?I know where you are coming from I am a sata guy for many years.I had a sata nr 3000(hvlp 1.4 hc) that we got when we changed to waterborne and I used that gun for 2 years then after hearing good reviews about the tekna I got one to try.Fast forward 2 plus years I’m still using it for waterborne base,works pretty damn good with autowave.The only hvlp I do like is the nr 95 and nr 2000(still have one) the 2000 does a better job with colors that have a large amount of 888df (fine metallic) but for 90% of the colors it works very well.I still use an rp and a 4000rp for clear.HTH :cheers
I have a very similar opinion as Jayson.
If I were you, I would keep the RP for clear, keep your SATA HVLP for sealer and misc things (epoxy,etch etc), then get a Tekna for base. I am sure you could easily sell your iwata. That is, if you want to buy another gun. You do have a fairly good selection already and any seasoned painter should be able to get good results with your current selection…just many of us would prefer the Tekna.
I’ve sprayed PPG, Sikkens and SW waterbourne with the Tekna and it has been amazing with all of them.
Thanks for the reply guys. :cheers
Looks like I’ll be on the lookout for a Tekna Copper with 7E7 cap.
What is it about reduced pressure that you prefer over HVLP? I ask as I’m a novice and my gun is a reduced pressure Anest Iwata with 1.3mm tip. I was looking at a LVLP 1.3mm (cheap one admittedly) gun on ebay and wondering if it would be better for metallics and less overspray clouds.
I don’t care about speed or being able to pile it on like a colission shop, just results. So am curious if the RP gun is actually better.
[quote=”richie00boy” post=32698]What is it about reduced pressure that you prefer over HVLP? I ask as I’m a novice and my gun is a reduced pressure Anest Iwata with 1.3mm tip. I was looking at a LVLP 1.3mm (cheap one admittedly) gun on ebay and wondering if it would be better for metallics and less overspray clouds.
I don’t care about speed or being able to pile it on like a colission shop, just results. So am curious if the RP gun is actually better.[/quote]
which iwata gun you are refering to as rp? in my experience metalics like lots of air, you can get by with a lvlp but i prefer a hvlp, havent tried a metalic with a compliant gun like my plus gun yet though. sata can handle metallics but u will use lots of air and material.
It’s from the Air Gunsa line of Anest Iwata, model is AZ3 and it’s is described as a reduced pressure “high transfer efficiency 2”.
I have the air gunza thats what i spray my clear with and i like it. I tried to spray clear with my tekna its good but i have to adjust to it
I have the air gunsa thats what i spray my clear with and i like it. I tried to spray clear with my tekna its good but i have to adjust to it
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