Which SPI Clears?
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Im getting ready to Switch to SPI clears for my resto work. Ive used a ton of there epoxy primers & 2k but have always used Nason 496 clear for my restos. If im using a Homemade booth which clear would work best . My booth is 14 X24 Garage with a furnace fan and filters its a positive flow and very few bugs & crap. Thanks Mike
I would suggest you call Barry Kives, the owner of SPI and talk to him. He will be able to direct you to the one that meets your situation.
if you haven’t already read this recent thread.
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/discussion-forum/refinish/dynatone-anyone-have-experience-here.html
i did a quick explanation of some of the spi clears. most people flock to the universal clear but read the thread. you will really have to make the decision on which is best for you. i always clear, block with 400 then reclear and lately i have been doing round 1 with euro then the second round with the ms. it works out great.
This is my third and final attempt to post. I have hit the backspace button twice now this morning after typing my repsonse… UGH..
Anyway my vote is for universal.. You can easily search the spi forum and read about all of Barrys clears.. http://www.spi.forumup.org/forum
Univsersal section:
http://spi.forumup.org/viewforum.php?f=7&mforum=spiHS section:
http://spi.forumup.org/viewforum.php?f=6&mforum=spiLittle bit of love for MS:
http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=2325&mforum=spiWhy doesn’t anyone seem to like the Turbo?
i do like the turbo. i have used that for years as well on smaller stuff. now that the euro has come out though i have kinda phased out the turbo and switched to euro.
I am curious why you think the Euro is a better product. I know it is significantly less expensive but other than that what would be your reason? I have used the Euro but only a couple times and didn’t feel it laid as nicely as the Turbo and certainly not as well as the Universal. I also thought it took longer to get of dust and cure compared to the Turbo. Any insight would be great. I have a gallon of the Euro going to waste.
i wouldn’t say euro is a better product. barry has a ton of products and all are good. it boils down to which clear is good for my situation and what i am trying to accomplish. what you do, what i do and what the rest of the guys on the forum here do are all different and so is the spray conditions. each situation is unique. the euro does take much longer to get out of dust. it stays tacky longer which is better for anyone working in a real paintbooth that moves alot of air as with most bodyshops. i will tell you for just a sprayed finish i can get the euro looking better then any of the other clears, even the universal and i have sprayed hundreds of gallons of universal. the turbo is a softer clear just like the universal and others so its nice and buffs easier. it kicks off quick as well. the euro however might take longer to kick off BUT when it does it kicks off harder getting harder faster then the turbo. i have done a couple sportbikes with euro mixed 4:1:1. i did 4 coats of it. they were probably the 2 best “unbuffed” jobs i ever did. the reasoning i have been using euro for my first round is the hardness. when i do a job it could have 8-20 coats of clear by the time its done. with a softer clear and that kind of film build it will fingernail or imprint easily for a long time. with the majority of it being done in euro, it hardens up nicely then my flowcoat is done with ms clear which is easy to buff. with you doing mobile work i would still stick with the turbo and some polar. i doubt euro would work the best for you. i guess that is why barry has so many clears. something for everyone.
The Universal plus polar comes pretty damn close to the turbo. And that setup might be even cheaper.
You also have finer control of cure times, which may come in handy for larger panels.Jim, yeah, the only down side with the Universal is the softness. The MS, although with the same resins,
does cure harder. This is a HUGE benefit for collision jobs. I think it’s just about right; soft enough to buff
but hard enough to not swirl up. Plus, it lays down much easier.I’m shooting MS right now, the temps are low. And, like you suggested, i’ll be reducing it about 10%.
I’m expecting runs… 🙂yeah believe it or not the euro is the same resin as well. the hardness mostly comes from the activator i guess. i think the extra 10% reducer when it gets cold helps reduce runs because you can put a wet coat on thinner.
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