why so much orange peel/rough finish?
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- This topic has 29 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 9 months ago by paul.
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- March 20, 2013 at 2:19 am #42234
painted this today, devilbiss gti pro with 1.2 nozzle and t2 aircap. used upol scratch resistant clear with a de’beer fast hardener. painted at 29psi.
now i think i might have an idea of the cause, no extraction so the dry overspray landed back on all my panels? could this be the cause? thanks for any help. it’s my first time spraying clear on anything big[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19215137_zps4a054a83.jpg[/IMG]
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general dust, my own fault for not cleaning the spray area enough
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19215030_zps52387b38.jpg[/IMG]the wing came out much worse
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19215004_zps57525d30.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19215112_zps7e686176.jpg[/IMG]i will be buying proper extraction very soon for a bodyshop that’s closing down.
March 20, 2013 at 2:23 am #42235likely too small tip in the gun and the fact that you not only used a fast hardener but you used the wrong hardener. Why are you mixing products?
March 20, 2013 at 2:27 am #42236on a lighter note, i’m quite happy with my first ever blend!
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[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19222147_zps6efda21e.jpg[/IMG]March 20, 2013 at 2:30 am #42237i asked the shop was it ok to use the hardener i have with this upol product and he said it was fine. also it’s quite cold where i am so a fast hardener was recommended. so the small fluid tip can cause this too? thanks for the reply :cheer:
March 20, 2013 at 2:40 am #42238Hey mate
. Good attempt for your first go, we all have to start some where. If I think back on my first go I got more paint on me then the panel :whistle:
Look on the bright side it will be easier to flat and polish back orange peel then to rub out runs the length of the door :rofl
Bit more Pratice and some more tips , and ill nail it :), just keep posting and keep us up to date on how your getting on and well help you along the wayMarch 20, 2013 at 2:43 am #42239[quote=”rikka23″ post=31093]Hey mate
. Good attempt for your first go, we all have to start some where. If I think back on my first go I got more paint on me then the panel :whistle:
Look on the bright side it will be easier to flat and polish back orange peel then to rub out runs the length of the door :rofl
Bit more Pratice and some more tips , and ill nail it :), just keep posting and keep us up to date on how your getting on and well help you along the way[/quote]cheers dude! would u recommend a larger tip for the gun, or could i just slow down my spray speed? it’s a bit annoying as i have spray small bit before and they turned out much better than this? i’ve even painted a rear door on a hiace in 2k direct gloss and it came out quite well compared to this. will u have a look at my other thread rikka and see if u can help me? :cheer:
March 20, 2013 at 2:55 am #42240Ok mate what’s your other thread,
Erm ok with the clear is it a medium solid or a high solid, and how many coats did you put on.
A bad trades man blames his tools ha ha ,Try on the first coat to do a medium wet coat, after that use you gun lightly with the trigger on just air blow the over spray away from the painted area. Don’t aim at the panel just around then next coat a wet one. Try to spray 6-8 inches away around 28psi. Doing a 50% over lap
With the t2 set up wide out your fan wide open the do one full turn back in. With the fluid needle wide it fully open and then pull the trigger in and hold with the other hand wide it in till you can feel the trigger starting to move in , then with mine I tend to do one full turn as well,
Get some masking paper and just try on that to see how it sprays out and see if its top heavy, etc you should have a round 4.5 /5 inch fan and the same wetness from top to bottomMarch 20, 2013 at 3:04 am #42241here’s the other thread
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/component/kunena/7-paint-and-refinish/27180-need-aircap-help-from-devilbiss-usersoh i definitely don’t blame the gun! it’s a devilbiss so a quality tool.
i looked up the process guide for the upol clear i used, and they suggested the grip and rip technique, dust coat followed by wet coat.here’s the clear i used.
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/16/s2080sr-scratch-resistant-super-clear-coat-%2821%29.htmoh the gun was set-up like u suggested. and the fan. ran the gun at the recommended 2 bar.
March 20, 2013 at 3:18 am #42244Ok I’ve just looked on the tds and it says for the tip 1.3 and your using a 1.2 so if you try widen the fan a quarter turn and a little high psi it’s got a t2 on so it will flow abit, if you drop the psi or make you fan smaller it will run or sag in the drying time, is the s2030 standard harner
Running it at 2 bar will be ok on a 1.3 but a 1.2 will give it the peel effect
With the hardener I’ve just looked and the s2030 is a fast and the s2032 is the standard, do you hard any heat or air movement in the area your spraying. And also if your using a fast hardener and going on bit dry that could be why it’s die backing and giving a peel and no gloss finish
Attachments:March 20, 2013 at 3:23 am #42246[quote=”rikka23″ post=31098]http://m.youtube.com/jimmo4life?uid=ywKecHrSNa5bnSLc8IBrvg&desktop_uri=%2Fjimmo4life#/watch?v=8NobhJe9zrM
Ok I’ve just looked on the tds and it says for the tip 1.3 and your using a 1.2 so if you try widen the fan a quarter turn and a little high psi it’s got a t2 on so it will flow abit, if you drop the psi or make you fan smaller it will run or sag in the drying time, is the s2030 standard harner
Running it at 2 bar will be ok on a 1.3 but a 1.2 will give it the peel effect[/quote]
i’m using a fast hardener from de’beer. i know i shouldn’t mix brands but the paint shop said it will be fine.
so i need to up the pressure?March 20, 2013 at 3:35 am #42252I’ve never sprayed the upol clears so I’d have to have a play with it,
If you could go down the hardware store and get a thermometer gauge so you can get the right heat in the to get the clear to flow or dry how its meant to, try and keep the dawn and cold out when it’s dry. I have seen people wet the floors to keep the dirt down but I find it let’s the damp in and can make the clear milky.
I tend to sweep the area and even mask paper to the floor where you spray.
Use the tak cloths on the masking and an older tak cloth for the air line,
Erm for the over spray, if the walks are painted white and washed down and clean then get a water wash tak for the walls. It’s a liquid film you roller on and it stays taky 🙂 so the over spray will stick to it, if so glow the over spray towards the walks between coatsMarch 20, 2013 at 3:42 am #42255no air movement at the moment as i’ve just built the shed and am in the process of buying an extraction fan.
used a diesel heater to heat the room.i think i’ll used the 1.3 fluid tip from the base gun on the clear gun from now on and use the 1.2 on the base gun.
the room is insulated but it wouldn’t be more than 20 degrees with the heater running so i thought a fast hardener would be okwater wash tak?
March 20, 2013 at 3:47 am #42257Try not to have the diesel heater to close to where your painting as I could put fish eyes in your clear.
Yeh water wash tak, it’s a clear paint you roll on the walls and it stays taky the over spray stocked to it and when the walks get dirty you wash it off with waterMarch 20, 2013 at 3:54 am #42260brilliant, thanks for all the help. so do u recommend changing the clear gun to a 1.3 setup?
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