Yet another PPG Deltron question
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As i have discussed before. i have had mottling/ blotchyness isuues with the deltron on biger silver well metallic panels. my question is. as i am applying the color, should i be adding reducer per coat. it seems the more i try to fix a mottled panel, the worse it gets. i just did a roof on a suzuki with a larger needle gun. i usually spray with a sata3000 hvlp 1.3 for base. i used a 1.4 on this last job. nr2000 and had none of these problems. other than large panels i love my 3000 for base. i usually dont like to over reduce getting into my second and third coats but maybe its the thing to do? The painter i replaced has helped me a great deal. but he never did any over reducing. he had been at it for 40 years. but for me anyways i do have that issue. Everyone seems to say its your technique. but i have to say i disagree. if i can lay down clear like there is no tommorow, even perfect factory matching peel, i would like to think its nothing to do with my technique. i overlap 50 percent with the fan mostly open. spraying at about 30 psi. i dont like to mess with air pressure to much as far as dropping it becuase on silvers anyways it tends to change the color quite a bit…. for the darker. also when spraying silvers, what silvers lighten a color up. i dont like adding different grains of metalics say it has fine and u add coarse becuase if u change whats in the formula i tend to see that transition on a blend…. anything helps!
January 12, 2013 at 5:44 am #40306When I used deltron I had better luck using 885 reducer for every job big or small and flash time was the same.When I use solvent a slower reducer improves sprayability and run your booth at 70-75 if you can.I also had better luck using 65-75% overlap and increasing my distance slightly on my last coat to even out the metallics.
January 13, 2013 at 5:46 am #40322[quote=”Jayson M” post=29291]When I used deltron I had better luck using 885 reducer for every job big or small and flash time was the same.When I use solvent a slower reducer improves sprayability and run your booth at 70-75 if you can.I also had better luck using 65-75% overlap and increasing my distance slightly on my last coat to even out the metallics.[/quote]
X2 Jayson, I don’t think it matters what brand u use, In my oppinon, with silver it is always a good idea to apply the last coat at almost double the distance
January 13, 2013 at 9:09 am #40324If that works for you keep doing it.I only increase my distance a few inches for the last coat depending on the gun and brand of materials.If you go too far your last coat will go on way too dry and cause adhesion issues and it will feel like tacking off a strip of 40 grit.Your base coat should feel silky smooth with barely any residue on your tack rag.
January 14, 2013 at 4:11 am #40357I agree with jay, over lap about 70% try turning the heat down a lil. If u have mainly a lot of large jobs, leave the heat up & bump up the reducer to dt895. U could always do a half & half of 85 & 95. You’ll need to play with it some, you could also do the same with 70/85. Booths move air differently, so it’s gonna come down to fine tuning every thing by playing around.
January 14, 2013 at 4:38 am #40359[quote=”thekansaskid” post=29343]do u usually reduce it 1 to 1? the touchmix gives me several options…[/quote]
DBC is 1:1. What options are you getting? with dx57 it’s 1:1:5%.
January 14, 2013 at 4:47 am #40360Dings right. 1:1 I don’t use any additives, unless its fish eye eliminator. 🙂
January 14, 2013 at 5:08 am #40362Tricoats require dc57. Not sure why you would get options for other ratios than 1:1. The base coat black is about the only tiny I know that is reduced differently. And that’s 1: .5. It’s possible it’s a used computer that another shop set up with diff ratios
January 14, 2013 at 5:21 am #40364Tri-stages require more coats + it can have more film build before you get the right color.The hardener will improve adhesion by crosslinking to the clear.Pretty sure it will also cut down on the chance of solvent pop with added film build.
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