Jim Runyon
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
No I’m not a painter, I just do my own stuff because I enjoy doing it.
I probably will end up seeing what it’ll take to get the dash out, IIRC it’s not really that hard of a job to unbolt everything.
I hear you guys, it isn’t my business card necessarily, but I’ll be using it to visit polo grounds and maybe date nights with my girlfriend. There’s a fine line between a classic restored truck and something that looks like a half-ass repaint. Hence the reason I’m replacing the body/side moldings and weather stripping when I do paint it.
I looked at it closer this weekend with painting in mind. I may even end up doing the inside of the doors and door jambs. The dashboard is also orange peeled (right from the factory :headsmack: ) and I find myself REALLY resisting the urge to pull it apart to re-spray. lol.
Good points made by all. I’m thinking that I will end up stripping, priming, blocking and sealing the black areas at a minimum. The primer/sealer I use makes quick work of it and I know how black is, it shows every imperfection. If I have it media blasted, I can go from as it sits to primed and ready for blocking in a couple days time. The silver, however, is as it left the factory and relatively straight, I’m comfortable buzzing it with 80 to get some tooth and seal it when I’m doing the rest of the truck. For durability, the black on the bottom will be covered with line-x so I’m not worried too much about that.
It will be a “workhorse” but not as a beater. It’ll be something I use to tow my boat, or a trailer with my Camaro when/if I take it to track days. I’ll probably daily drive it 3 days a week also.
I was leaning that way, at least the black area, but if I’m having it done, might as well do ALL of it. So now I guess the question is… Sandblast or sodablast? If I sodablast, what is the best process to get the residue off of the metal before I prime it?
anyone have a 72″ longboard for when I block the roof? :rofl
Thats what I said. On the top, down to the two tone line.
Considering the 91 is almost the same as a 1973, just updated, I would consider that a classic. a 92, however, is not… not yet, anyways.
[quote=”Ben” post=25116][quote=”pierceg” post=25113]I don’t understand why you want it stripped but you should look on Kijiji for painter’s ads. I’ve seen a few people doing paint jobs for under 700 dollars. I know there’s highschools and colleges that take in cars to paint for free or really cheap.[/quote]
What??? :unsure: …trade school, may be a good idea. But trusting some unlicenced hick you don’t know to touch your property and “repair” it in his buddys shed is not cool at all.
[quote]You really shouldn’t be investing more than 1000 dollars into a car from ’91, who knows what could happen to it.[/quote]
That may be true, but if he likes it enough why not…[/quote]
Exactly my thoughts on both counts. By his logic, the entire classic vehicle industry should have never happened. Some people just don’t get it I guess.
A 3/4 ton Big Block powered square body Suburban is not something easy to find, especially with no rust and all the interior still there in pristine condition.
It needs to be stripped on the top down to the two tone line because that is the correct way to do an early 90s GM vehicle with this particular issue.
Yea I was afraid of that. I actually prefer to do it myself, because I know what’s involved… I just can’t figure out a way to strip it and keep it out of the elements as I’m working on it when it’s 2′ too long for my garage. Not to mention the PILES of stuff that needs to come off of it that I would need to find room for.
Getting closer to jumping on this, how do I start getting the tail panel and tail light panels separated? Just pick up the spot weld cutter and go at it? I don’t want to screw up anything more than I need to getting it apart…
[quote=”1BadAction” post=19640]
[IMG]http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/6058/20110328221410188.jpg[/IMG]
[/quote]
Looks like a nice choice for an overall finish, Tommy. Not quite the pop of a med to big flake but probably a shitload easier to shoot…
Another choice is a chrome or holographic silver flake with a kandy on top, but it’s not the easiest to shoot.
I use 1/4″ diameter ball bearings in the bottom of the cup and make sure to keep it shook up. SG150 is great about keeping flake in suspension unless it’s 1/32″ disco flake or some other oddball shaped flake, you’re better off shooting that stuff dry anyways.
Use a mini or micro flake, with some HOK SG-150 intercoat clear. Don’t try to use a refinish clear, use House of Kolor or an equivalent and follow their directions EXACTLY. When you layer a clear like flake requires, you’re walking a thin line between not enough clear and having solvent trapping issues. After the whole job is shot, I usually let it bake in the hot sun for a month, then cut and buff. That allows the clear to shrink back around the flake as much as possible before you level it out. I really recommend finding something small to spray to get a feel for shooting flake.
Thanks guys. So it sounds like the toner black is the one to get? I’m using the 22 line for the black because single stage is the only way to mimic the “Phantom Black” color, I’ve tried it with bc/cc and even though it is the same color, it looks a good bit different in the sun.
Ben, The Gelcoat I shot on the bottom was a brown black, I had to add a hint of blue pigment to get it how I wanted but it came out damn close.
I like the way you think Bob. My paint booth up until now has been in the middle of my dead end road with everything wet down, snap dry clear and hope for the best. :rock after a de-nib and buff my parts look better than alot of the ones I’ve seen come out of local shops, and damn near as good as a show car. I’m getting ready to buy 3.5L of black right now for my boat, it’ll be the first thing I spray in a real booth. I’m pretty geeked about it.
I’ve resto’d a couple boats and their steel trailers, but the rust on sheetmetal scares me a bit. Is there something to neutralize the panel after I get it sanded to fresh metal and before I shoot epoxy primer on it?
so if I bust ass on it I’m looking at 80 hours for the body work? Is that Newbie time or body man time? lol
I knew they had most of the rust panels when I bought the truck, thats why I wasn’t scared away like I would be if there was nothing available. After I dug into it, Classic Industries has ALL the panels that I need available, which I’m pretty stoked about.
This is the worst part of the truck. Its the rear body support channel and rear floor, in one spot. The sound deadener mat is soaked with something caustic right there, I think somebody left a bad car battery in it at one time. The rest of the support channel and floor is solid, with a little surface rust only.
[IMG]http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/6058/20110328221410188.jpg[/IMG]
How can I install new parts, and still make sure they are protected from rust? Adhesive? The front floor pans and such are accessible from both sides so I can handle that, but this cargo area has me scratching my head.
Here is a shot of the back of the bedsides, just dirty. Overall the truck is pretty solid I think, and worlds better than some of them I have seen people start with.
[IMG]http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/4900/20110328221259956.jpg[/IMG]
Glad to be of service ding. :whistle:
Dturcotte, it’s a V6 5 speed, but it runs and drives. Rather than just tearing into this thing with both wrenches blazing, I am going to keep it drivable as much as I can so I don’t run into problems transporting it. I can swap an LS1 into it in one day if I play my cards right…
I could trade someone for a fleetside in a second, but I don’t know, I’ve always wanted a step side, and they are light. 👿 Then again, a fleetside could be made into a 454ss clone. I already have a MINT condition 2 piece radio/EQ that are getting to be real rare, and tons of interior parts for this 91.