Jim Runyon
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heres the truck, only pic I have ATM. Going to get some better ones this weekend when I get back home and situated.
[img]http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/3914/3n03k03mf5y35t65p5a6248.jpg[/img]
IF I went to bare metal, I would use the house of kolor DTM epoxy. prime, block, seal, base, clear, done. If I just scuff the paint I suppose I would use a sealer before I basecoat it. I would most likely go back with the same charcoal color it is now.
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote] For a 90s chevy? [/quote]I’d rather put my time and money into a 90s chevy truck (or 90s ford truck) than a rustang. :lol1
I know its kind of a n00b question, but I haven’t done much work on cars. All of my jobs thus far have all been bare plastic, fiberglass or gelcoated glass as a start. That’s why I search around on here and ask questions. :woohoo:
LOL. No. I just don’t want the durability to be compromised in any way.
I’m 99% sure the paint is OEM.
Should I strip the fenders, doors, etc also if the paint on them is ok?
finally! shooting paint like a hack, something I’m an expert at :rofl
I don’t even bother wetting everything down unless it is extremely dusty. The basecoats are easy to get on. With the clear, I go one medium-heavy coat layed on as fast as possible. when it is ready to recoat, give it a once over real quick to pick any bugs out with an Xacto knife, then lay another medium coat on. I like the panel clears, but I can get good results with regular clears also, like this.
[IMG]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/6109/cimg0024h.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9238/cimg0025o.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4126/cimg0026q.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/9314/cimg0027h.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/6889/cimg0028f.jpg[/IMG]
2 shots of the paint right out of the gun…
[IMG]http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/4411/glasssotv1011.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5628/glasssotv1009.jpg[/IMG]
This yak is 16′ long, shot in my driveway. after cutting and buffing, there are maybe 2 blems on it, which I acually think are spots where I missed pinholes in my gelcoat.
Yep, I cut my teeth on the LSX platform, and I seen no reason to go with SBC stuff. I already have everything I need to work on and tune LSX vehicles…
I’m boxing in some sections of the frame, welding in a parallel 4 Link setup with coil-over shocks and all the associated suspension components, sandblasting everything, then painting it with a single stage “chassis black”. Then I can also run the 1/2″ SS fuel lines and setup my fuel system. By the time I have all that done, I should have most of the parts to build a turbocharged 427ci LSX block engine for it.
How strong are those tie-down points in the cargo area, can I utilize those to lift the rear of the body up?
A Full size Blazer, 95 and up they were called Tahoes.
here’s a pic from when I first got it.
[IMG]http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/5395/lsxblazer01ei5.jpg[/IMG]
The only thing is the weight. any more than 1000 lbs would be pushing it, and that blazer cab probably weighs a good bit more.
Keep in mind, this is the new style like they used up til 1998, so its a good bit heavier than the 92 and older trucks.
Thats a good idea… I’m almost sure it would be near the CG of the entire cab if I used the point between the front and rear seats too.
I don’t have that many friends. :S I guess I’m going to be buying some bottle jacks and extra jack stands. Luckily the suspension is way low, I shouldn’t need to lift it real high to clear every thing.
No I don’t.
It looks, feels, and sprays just like original watery awlgrip, :rofl it’s just acrylic based instead of a polyester based. I’ll post a few pictures when I spray it.
its technically OK if you do it in the first 24-48hrs as long as you aren’t sanding out huge thick runs. the dulling also isn’t quite as bad with light colors. With black and dark blue, the stuff is so damn hard its almost impossible to get the sand scratches out of it. even if you do, if you’re outside of that window when the stuff is still “green” it’ll dull up where you rubbed on it.
I might just go with the awlcraft, it’s not quite as durable, but I’m not sure I want to experiment with something like this.