Dan
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I turned the pressure down to 35 today and it layerd out better, not used to using sikkens clear for a while, where you can hose the shit out of it and it still holds it’s gloss nice, do either of you guys still use hs+ lv? I didn’t mind that stuff at all when was using it a few years ago… Can you still get it?
Well so far Im liking the envirobase a lot other than the speed in a crossflow. Blends very nice, metallic lay down great, excellent color match so far. I found cromax and stando to be much quicker, t the amount of time I spend basing in comparison with the enviro is 3-4x more +.
[quote=”jim” post=32297]This is a good question, I to have always urethane primed over my spray filler. But I know people are sealing it and then shooting there base and clear. I have seen this process lots on (T.V.) restoration shows . To me I feel you get better flow and gloss retention if you skip the sealing process all together. I guess if you were going to cut and polish the job then it wouldent matter, but for off the gun aperance I wouldent do it.[/quote]
yeah I agree with you for sure on going right to base and 95% of the time on a restoration or any complete I will reprime any burn thrus, finish everything nice in 6 or 800 and go right to base. This guy however really wants the poly on his car, and it will add a lot more time for me having to prime twice rather than once…
well after using cromax pro for about 5 days straight I have to say this stuff is pretty nice product… the blends go on so smooth with or without the wet bed, after the first time blending a metallic I got used to the ass backwards application process. Covers great, only once have I had to put on more than 1.5 coats, the colors have been good and the color chips have seemed bang on with my spray outs.. this stuff is wicked in a crossflow or downdraft going in the booth once to base saves tons of time too
also havent had it dieback once, nothing like the nightmares with SW!
Ive been using the 3m pps cups for a while now, ocasionally I will wash one out or if I have clear that hasnt hardened in the liner ill re use the liner if its still in good order. Rps cups took some getting used to, they breathe better than the pps cups, I definitly f’d up a couple times forgetting to pop that cap on the top to mix more paint, or pop it up before spraying. 😛 I believe the Rps are pricier than the Pps cups…
[quote=”gtome” post=30806]Haha!! Be careful how you word things!! I can dig up several posts about how YOU said it was stupid to even imply that the tech sheed would have any clue about what pressure to spray at. Matter of fact it was in THIS thread. So no, I dont go by the tech sheet on what pressure to spray at. But for grins I did just look, It says 45-50 psi in a conventional gun!! No way man…im not spraying at 50 psi!
But yeah it totally makes sense that laying on 2 heavy coats will dry faster and retian gloss better (and less chance of pop). And I totally plan to bring my pressures back up. I feel I get a more even/uniform coat with more pressure as well.[/quote]
40-50 psi for a [b][i]conventional[/i][/b] spray gun… you have a hvlp gun bro
[quote=”Charlie” post=30767][quote=”Jayson M” post=30765]Your work looks nice 5L,the booth doesn’t look to shabby,brings back memories :cheers I like the olds convertible and love the color.[/quote]
[IMG]http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b158/7xnova/Cutlass/IMG_0845.jpg[/IMG]
Certainly does bring back memories! :)[/quote]
hey right on man! id like to get those white viledon filters like the ones in your booth, the cheap white and green ones let quite a bit of trash through…
yah turned the fluid in a couple turns with the 755 clear and has been working much better,blends with the awx have been very good too, probably; dare I say even easier to blend than autowave… The clears take a lot more work though to make glassy, not like superior 250 where you can hose it on with a garden hose and it would still look primo 😉
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had a little time today so snapped a couple pics
Attachments:had a little time today so snapped a couple pics
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