Dan
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I havent used a 2k etch primer in probably 5+ years, most of the old good ones arent compliant for use in canada anymore like the washprimer 1k CF(or was it 2k? Cant remeber). I remeber before compliance ppg had a really good 2k etch primer as well. Sikkens has recently discontinued or are in the process of discontinuing the aerosol 1kcf as well.. Now for the past 3 years have been using the Bonderite Auto-Prep wipes, which are supposidly better because its an actual conversion coating. Anyone else using the auto prep wipes or similar products?
Havent personally tried the h20 basecoat, but havent heard many positive things about it. heard the colours dont match frequently and that you have to make a sprayout for every colour, and also that the colour references are poor.
I have used the 9200 production clear and did not like it at all, had a lot of dieback and if you tried to pound the second coat it seemed to orange peel no matter what, put it away after a couple jobs, wouldnt use it again.Could be you are not sanding your primer thoroughly enough, I had this happen a couple times with Evercoat uro-fill primer.
If i think i know what your talking about…It went well and i am very glad that I sealed it. :rock:
color covered great with two coats, one nice coat of 350 sealer reduced it a bit. It was at least 28 degrees outside on saturday, found myself running a little bit to chase that wet edge inside the booth. will post some pictures tommorow. After 2 3/4 gallons raw originally, i have at least a 1/4 of a gallon left so it all worked out well!ya I grabbed a gallon of 350 for, and 2 3/4 gals of 200 single stage.
do you think 3.5 will cover better, I may get a price on the 350 tommorow, never sprayed before is it slow enough for a job this size?
ahhh i really do not want to have to seal this.
think im gonna roll the dice on this one, its going from dark blue to lime green hopefully will cover in two coats :unsure:ever not tighten the clamps enough? made a big big mess one time lol
how frequently are you suppost to flush it out?
[quote=”MMG” post=26151]KFT, A SATA RP 1.2 or 1.3 at 33 to 36 psi. First coat, thin wet and pretty, just barely connect the dots. If you want more peel, let it flash a little extra then spray the second coat for appearance. It flows a little during bake so you can leave some extra texture to allow for that. Also, if you use the faster combinations from your MPU you will get less flow and more texture.
BTW, an Iwata W400 LV2 1.3 at 35 psi is one bad a$$ clear gun also. Still my favorite.
Salty One:dnc[/quote]
MPU…. people actually use those? ive heard about them but never actually seen one in person.
interesting concept but I dont know how you could keep the clear/hardener from gunking up eventuallyI dont have the opportunity to use nice sikkens clears much anymore, but superior is definitly my favorite clear.
if your jobs arent looking like glass your not trying hard enough, you could dump this sh!t on with a bucket and it would still look good.
i put first coat on little lighter, close/fast with the 3000RP at around 38-40 psi and then drop pressure down to 35-37 for the second coat and slower down and pull back a bit. Has worked well for me, wish i still got to use this clearwow those are old, get them outta the ppg and dupont museum? Lol!
im looking to do the same thing myself, I havent tried any other fresh air hoods than a 3M one a couple years ago and found myself tearing the thing off in the booth because it would fog up and i wouldnt be able to see nearly as well as with the naked eye. Id be interested in trying the sata vision hoods as ive heard good things.
i use the 3M 1 2 3 system mostly, but i have found that being more thorough with your number 1 (rubbing compund) firstly before going to glaze will help to get majority of your swirl marks out. When you go to your number two glaze/cutting compound, i like to try to take as much or all of the glaze off the panel using the polisher rather than wiping with a microfiber until I go to wax. Keeping your microfibers that you use for Compound/Glaze/Wax seperate, and in clean containers will also help big time as those microfibers pick up dirt and garbage that scratch the surface of what you just polished. I do however use the meguiars swirl mark remover after my #2 sometimes, and really like the way it took the remainging swirlies out, shines up really nice too. Clean polishing pads are a must too as the get dirt in them too, which will just keep adding more scratches when your polishing.
yeah buddy im in the same spot as you pretty much i have a ton of Autobase and autobase +; tinters (have at least gallon and a half of Q140), mixed colors… i dont have any abp reducer either(ran out) but i have a ton of the autobase atomizing agent. seems like a waste not to use them, i substituted straight 140 for a straight black vehicle, as opposed to using 245 on autowave and it worked well? i love how clean solvent blacks go on, plus lot nicer to denib. have lots of older sikkens clears too, even have bunch of old dupont lucite!