Dan
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I threw both the 909 and 202 away, didnt like either of them. :p
never cared much for the RPS cups, was always forgetting to pop the cap down when mixing more paint, or pulling it up before spraying 😛
like the PPS much better :rockI agree with what your saying about not taking down the grits fine enough, but on a side note I absolutley love the super duty its wicked shit!
yes those are the approximate air pressures of what i spray autowave base with (17-22) clear and single stage (25-27).
I tend to not use the tekna as much anymore for base (no metallics) because there is a 3000 hvlp that I can use for base, and i have heard from a rep that guys have been having problems with golds, silvers (autowave) etc coming out lighter when sprayed through a tekna as apposed to a sata. I havent taken a chance and stick with the 3000 hvlp most of the time and save the two teknas for sealer and clear.[quote=”ding” post=23773][quote=”5LEater” post=23771]i was thinking about a gallon gallon and a quarter unactivated , just to be safe.
smaller car to, foxbody mustang[/quote]
2 qts of polybase would be more than enough[/quote]Yea but i would like to have some leftover for the future and to do jams later, plus im going to use tekna with 7e7 and a 1.4, which is a bit of a hog spraying at 25-27 psi it seems to me, when i have sprayed utech 200 through this gun before it seems to use a fair ammount of product over lets say a sata 3000 hvlp.
i was thinking about a gallon gallon and a quarter unactivated , just to be safe.
smaller car to, foxbody mustangLol i would like to spray it with water for sure, but if i use the autowave from the shop ill probably have to pay for my material 😛
Im fairly sure i could still get some polybase, its not “available” anymore but im sure i could get my hands on some…Ive never used the HS21 clear myself if that is the one your refering to, how is that clear? in comparison to the superior.
it will be a ford midnite blue metallic, code LA.
agreed, i was having the occasional problem about a year ago with the primer making fisheyes if i hammered on first coat to heavy. Havent had that problem since i started leaning back on the first coat, and think its wicked primer with great build and sands very nice when mixed and applied correctly.
Yes as ryan said, you need to “stack” your coats of the colorbuild. Myself if i think im going to have the burning ring of fire for whatever reason ill put on the first coat very light and let flash for long enough and then go medium to full wet as per usual.
But really when your featheredging back 1 inch for every layer of substrate you have, you shouldnt get that ring as much or at all.[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=23481][quote=”Matrix Paint Systems” post=23479]I don’t believe the WS 400 is compliant for the States.[/quote]
Coast Airbrush shows them for sale on their site? Not sure myself though.[/quote]
Pretty sure theyre compliant, you can buy them in canada…
looks like pinholes in your filler to me? I would mix up some two part polyester glazing putty, and using a razor blade
lightly skim over the pinholes with the glaze, trying to put less than more glaze on the surface. sand the glaze with a block until you cannot feel
the pinholes in the surface anymore, reprime, and then reshoot the base. Sometimes its hard to see pinholes in the primer without looking very closely at the surface. hope that helps.Go 320 and then 400 by hand. nothing courser than 400.
you americans be greatful you can still spray solvent.
looks pretty minty!