Dan
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Best bang for your buck- tekna for sure. Using 1.3 for clear with 7E7 cap and just bought another tekna quickclean with a 1.4/7e7 cap for base.
paid approximatly 800 for both. still havent tried the 909 aircap though.If you think you are capable of repairing it, repair it why not, damage isnt that bad really.
If you are concerned about color match you will most likely have to go into the fenders anyway as that color would be a tough match, chances are if you tried to butt the hood to the fenders it would probably look off. If you are good at blending though its possible to keep the repair small and blend out your color, which can be tricky on a hood.[quote=”NICK PERRY” post=21898]Jayson, Once we were done basing the truck, the air blowers sat on for 2+ hours before we cleared it. The Sikkens rep plus another guy from there lab were at my shop giving us recommendations and were in the paint booth while we re-sprayed the truck (for the 3rd time). The last time we re did the truck it was comletly stripped to bare metal, did everything right out of the book. We dryed the base for at least 2 hours with air dryers, PLUS baked it after the fact just to be sure all the moisture was out, Then I took a tack rag and rubbed the crap out of it just to make sure it was dry all over and our Rep said it was all good to go before we cleared it. The truck sat for 3 days before re-assembly.
I have been spraying Akzo Nobel products since 1997 and never encountered a problem like this. It is only in Silver colored vehicles I seen it happen on, 2 GM vehicles, a Hyundai code and a Mercedes. I was thinking it may be the 666 Binder, just because these toners are 50% at least with the binder.
Overall, Akzo has been good about it. They covered the cost of the re-dos and supplied a rental car for our customers while they tried to figure out our issue. The thing that scares me is it happened to 3 other shops in our area. We are crossing our fingers it may have been a bad batch.
Cheers, 50-65 cars a week eh, good stuff. We are almost there, but our shop is only 3000 square feet so there is only enough time in the day, haha[/quote]
Two hours, a little excessive no? lol
and 65 cars a week is pretty decent, the shop im at right now does approx 45+ on average per week.
you could also cover 24 – 36 inches around your spray area with paper and then plastic the rest and tuck plastic under the paper just for some extra protection. Before i used to have the occasional problem with some paint flaking off of the plastic during the bake cycle, if im rushing I may just use plastic but i usually like to put paper around spray area just so im not painting directly onto the plastic.
[quote=”bodymanhelper” post=21478]Hi guys
Im just an apprentice and the guy who is teach me told me never to use a D.A. on large panels to cut the filler because he said that you can make waves. :unsure:[/quote]
I dont know about that, sure if you arent great with the machine maybe dont use a DA. But I see nothing wrong with using a DA or Orbital to take the bulk of your filler off the panel your working on, while also making your panel straight, and then blocking further if need be. If you have decent skill and experience I wouldnt see why you wouldnt be able to finish your work straight with a DA or orbital.( there are of course areas on a vehicle where you would need to use a block to be able to shape the more rigid parts of the vehicle) the important part is being able to feel your work and sanding accordingly based on what you are feeling (generally) :rock
day one went decent, sprayed almost complete minus 2 doors, and a smaller job. Dont mind the Aquabase basecoat at all so far, havent done and serious blending yet so we will see. It seems as if this stuff dosent like to be put on too wett, i put on my second coat pretty wet and the metallics really swam in a couple spots, put on a third coat on medium wet instead of medium-full wet as i would put on the Autowave basecoat and it seemed to clear things up. clearcoat is a little thick for my taste but I will play around with the reducer a bit this week. didnt have time to take any pics today but i will post some, sometime this week. :rock
oh and the medium hardener/reducer worked fine, the weather has cooled down considerably from how hot it was last week lol
yup im not too concerned, other than unfamiliarity with the products.
thanksWell im going to be giving this shop a trial run for a week, next week. Going to be the only painter there, and it sounds like quite a bit more responsibility than im used to. I usually just spray smaller to moderate jobs, but by the sounds of this place they have a lot of completes lined up for me. I have never sprayed a complete before, but i like a challenge. Im hoping that this Nexa stuff will be as user friendly as autowave and hopefully dosent give me too much grief! The clear that I will be using is the Nexa HS Clear, P-190-xxx i believe, but one thing i worry about is that the body shop manager only orders fast and medium hardeners/reducers… and we are going through a major heatwave in manitoba right now so im sure im gonna have to hustle in the booth! Anyways, wish me luck boys ill post some pics after day one lol.
Right on thanks for the info!
[quote=”Ben” post=21077][quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=21076]The Tekna works better for me than the Supernova and the Sata HC. Some things that work well for me are to reduce tough colors no less than 35% and usually around 40% if it’s warmer. I will go higher if needed. First coat goes on wet. Don’t just stop the color either. Make sure to pull the gun away and not leave a abrupt stopping point. Second coat goes on around 75% of the first. I will flick my wrist without triggering off the gun for my blend. I will put a 3rd maybe 40% wet coat on before my control coat if the color has any mottle in it. It doesn’t take much paint. Then for my control coat I will drop my gun pressure to 18-19 psi and back up and give it a nice even coat. Not wet but not dry. Think of a peppered look.
I fought mottle on tough colors for awhile with the Sata HC. Steve Baran recommended the Tekna to me and gave me these pointers and honestly I have almost no trouble anymore.[/quote]
I’ve been spraying Autowave for about 6 months now (with the Tekna, same setup). I had the same issues and first, but with a little fine tuning they virtually are non-existant now. I more or less do as Ryan does. 1 wet coat, 2nd coat a little less wet 3rd coat (if needed) a little less wet. The drop coat goes on just as he said, kind of sandy looking. If you watch it carefully though, you notice it isn’t “dry”. The drop coat is done at about 12″ gun distance. I was originally dropping my gun pressure to 19 PSI. The rep told me not to bother. Now I keep my pressure the up on the drop coat. Looking at my older and newer spray out cards of the same colour, there doesn’t seem to be any difference.
When I spray, I spray at 24 PSI. As Ryan said as well, fan the gun well on the blends (I am sure you are doing this)…whatever blending method works for you. I highly recommend using the 666/wetbed.
Jayson M mentioned to me the importance of getting each coat right (getting the 1st one nice and wet, second a little less wet etc) in metallic control. If these aren’t followed from the first coat, then the drop coat won’t take care of your issues you will have by that point.
I haven’t had any issue with mottling or striping in severl months. Just sprayed a gold Buick yesterday and it came out excellent.
Good luck! :cheers[/quote]
Yes I have heard that you can use straight 666 as a wet bed for tough blends, I have not tried it because im not sure of the process involved. Could you go a little further into detail the process of laying out the 666 for your blend?
Thanks :cheersThe main reason being that Im possibly changing employers soon. Sick of the horseshit and politics of the shop im at currently. Thats all I can say on here, i dont know who monitors/reads these forums hahaha
Yes im fairly sure its aquabase, because no one in canada can have solvent base other than Fleet refinishers. So it would not be solvent base.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20845]Yup the superior 250 poster in the mixing room says light first coat and the tech sheet says medium closed coat,basically all the droplets are connected,and it is a thin med wet coat(achieved by spraying close and fast for your first coat).When I was at the training center the head guru said just put on 2 wet coats of superior,as it looks better than the coat and a half.I’m surprised that info came from your rep,maybe you should show him the tech sheet :rofl[/quote]
Theres been a couple things that were a little out to lunch, ie; telling us to use 250 accelerator in primer, instead of the super top. Pretty sure 250 accelerator is for clear only. Everyone has something different to say.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20836]Maybe you mean a closed medium coat,much different than a light dry coat.The light coat/tack coat was used with low solids clears so they didnt end up on the floor,but not needed with todays clears.My tech sheet says two single wet flowing coats with 5-10 mins flash time, not a light dry coat followed by a wet coat,superior is one closed medium coat,then one flowing coat.If you put your first coat on dry you will have texture that a second wet coat will not fix,you will not reach your proper mil build and could have delam problems down the road,this clear has only been around for a year,lets see what happens 5 years down the road,spray how ever you like but it is the opposite of the info I have….Tech sheet is here,scroll down to page 4 http://www.globalsafetynet.com/akzonobel/pdfs/akzo_373_english.pdf%5B/quote%5D
Im not familar with the term “closed coat”, not sure what It is to be honest, i have wondered.. :lol1,
I also confused the sheet for Superior and Energy pro, my bad. BUT, the sheet for superior we have at the shop [i]does[/i] says one light coat followed by one full coat, word for word, i guess thats open to interpretation, lol.
I also, didnt just create this way to spray the clear, but It was the way the Rep said the clear should be sprayed.
When I said I put the first coat “almost dry”, maybe I used the wrong term. What I should have said is that I spray the first coat a bit lighter than medium wet, followed by a full wet coat. Your information is interesting, im always down to learn new stuff :exciRight on, that comment about the p sheets wasnt directed at you, but regardless the p sheets I have say put a [b]light[/b] coat followed by a [b]full[/b] coat, so that is what I do. Havent had any problems doing it this way, dont run the clear often, the jobs dont die, and the gloss is nice so I will continue to spray it this way. I dont see why that would “not be recommended”.