Dan
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Ive always thought 1500 to 3000 is a bit of a big jump up the grits, Im sure trizact makes 2000, but i rarely see people use it, usually go right from 1500 to 3000. I dont do much polishing anymore, myself.
Just a thoughtdont know if you have the tech sheets, but I usually like to put the first coat on quite lite, almost dry. wait 5-8 minutes usually and then hammer on a nice heavy coat. Got used to this clear using the Energy hardener, but I did try using the superior hardener but I did not see too much of a difference so I continue with the dedicated hardener now.
Did you re apply the basecoat? or just the clear.
Are these imperfections everywhere or just in certain areas?
Sounds like something not reacting right after you sprayed your clear again, how long did you let the job sit before you sanded it?It sounds like solvent pop or some sort of contamination possibly?
Couldnt say for sure without pictures though.
You are spraying solvent base, correct? Which paint products are you using?nice booth! :p
[quote=”Whitesnake” post=20421]Just use some Acme FC710 or 720 and be done with it…don’t let the price fool you.[/quote]
I used to spray SW U7000 and use ACME for clear, wow that clear is out to lunch man. Would never use that clear again if possible, the stuff was like water, would constantly die, general all around garbage clear.
I dont know how that would work if you are using SW base and planning on using Superior 250 clear…
Superior 250 is supposidly only suppost to be used over top of autowave but who know maybe they just say that lol… Mixing paint manufacturers seems a little risky.[quote=”Ben” post=20275]Basically most mixing systems have a straight black toner. Mixing blacks are usually a weaker black (less opaque). And sometimes there are blacks that have a little hue to them (typically yellow/red) which gives the black more of a brown look in bright day light.[/quote]
What would be the difference for example of the tinters “245, 400, 744.” on autowave. I know 744 is the mixing black, but 245 and 400 look pretty much the exact same to me. learn me! :p
[quote=”vizard” post=20126]hey mate thanks for the reply.
Its all one brand, Protec. Its old left over stuff from when he got the front half of the car done ( it is a ute ) he already has the front end and doors done, im just doing his rear tray, rear quarters and tailgate.
hes given me the base, pearl and clear, but again im not sure if its enamel or urethane, if its either, will the clear dry dull or gloss? and yeh can i just use my 2k over the acrylic base and pearls?[/quote]
I would try to do a little bit of research on your products to find out all the relevant information, and to answer your second question, yes with most single stage finishes you CAN clear them after you have waited a certain ammount of time. Is the brand of 2k clear your using also Protec? as ben said you may be asking for trouble by mixing up your products.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=20116]That is partly true,but depending on how long your hose is in the booth you can have a pressure drop of 20psi or more from the wall reg to the end of the airline,also you will not have the volume of air at that low of a pressure.
If your gun is atomizing properly and you have good spraying technique you will have very little flow out,Why?Your paint will be put on smooth.On the flip side if you put on thick wet coats at a lower pressure depending on flow out you can have runs,solvent pop,dieback,etc.That is why you want to control the paint,you don’t want the paint to control you(runs etc) make sense??[/quote]From what I see on the guage I dont see too much of a pressure drop..
I think I understand what you are talking about relating to “flow out”, I dont know personally I like to put the
material on pretty heavy, probably because the first gun I used was a Devilbiss GFG- and I loved how that thing would put the clear on nice and heavy.[quote=”Jayson M” post=20112]I think you might be better off adjusting your wall regulator to 80psi and then dial in your gauge to desired psi,or if you have the digital gauge leave it wide open and adjust your pressure at the wall until your gun gauge reads what you want.40 psi at the wall will not give you enough volume of air IMO ;)You want to control the paint,not have it control you.If you get in the habit of relying on “flowout” for a nice job it can kick you in the balls,atomization is where it is at;)[/quote]
Yes I do have the digital gauge. I used to have my psi much higher on the wall, but another painter explained something to the effect of why you dont need that much air pressure going to your regulator (wall). It made sense to me because why have more pressure going over 45-55 psi, when I would never really spray anything over 29 pounds?
“If you get in the habit of relying on “flowout” for a nice job it can kick you in the balls”
How so?
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=20105]I use a Tekna with a 7E7 for Autowave right now. I am around 16-22 psi, rarely 16 though. Works great. I have used it for clear but find it works better with a 1.3 at around 27-30 psi for Superior. It is slower for clear than a RP.
I’m with Jayson, I’m not sure what you mean by 45 psi at the gun and 19 to 22? One sound low and the other sounds really high.[/quote]
sorry for that confusing post boys, to clarify I set the air in the booth so that theres 45 pounds to the regulator of my gun, and then dial in gun pressure after that to 19-22 psi. I havent tried spraying clear with a higher pressure since I first tried the gun, but i recall that when I did it seemed to me as If the clear likes to flow out a little better at a lower pressure. Felt almost like the clear was over atomizing, or there was just too much air and not enough material.
[quote=”painter123″ post=20082]Everyone paints a little different so if what u spray at works keep using that. and if he gets the acceptable results at what he sprays at that is fine to.. it also depends on the gun u are using.. i don’t spray every color at the exact psi.. as some metalics need a little more or less psi to get them to match a little better.(give or take a few psi..) I don’t use diamont.and don’t spray with a sata..i use the devilbiss tekna and somewhere between 20-23 is what i use for base..[/quote]
which air cap are you using on your tekna? im using the 7E7 aircap with a 1.4, have been trying to find the sweet
spot for spraying clear. I usually spray the clear (either energy pro or superior) at anywhere between 19 and 22 pounds wide open, with around 45 pounds at the gun. Just wondering if you found a specific Psi that works well for you, usually if I use the gun for base i will spray between 16 and 20 pounds.
:hij:what a horseshit verdict haha
[quote=”ryanbrown999″ post=19879]Water is more easily absorbed by the body.
To be honest all of this stuff is extremely harmful to the body. Fresh air should be used for any of it.[/quote]
man I wish i had fresh air, the booth I use has no fresh air and gets pretty foggy when im clearing, the thing is a pure cancer box man. Ive also been feeling quite sick by the end of the day (headache, stomach discomfort) if I breathe in the smallest ammount of anything containing isocyantes it seems. The stuff never used to bother me, and now it seems I can barely work out a full day now.. even when wearing my respirator all day.