Paul
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Ok lets clear some things up here as far as RM 870 is concerned. It is not a straight 1k like the 868 ad pro. It is a 2k sealer pre flexed with ad pro built into it. It was designed for raw plastics and is acceptable to use over primers and e-coats as well , however BASF does not recommend using 868 ad pro over top of primed aftermarket bumpers as their primers are generally soluble and will soak and soften the primer.
It is in preliminary BASF testing. Ive seen it twice now at the North American Color lab, It is a brand new resin that BASF made specifically for this purpose. This is not anywhere close to the same technology that is in Akzo and PPG’s
They system is able to be used as a low voc and a water system because the toners still contain solvent. The choice to use either low voc or water is made on your computer. Low voc sprays like a traditional solvent system that is pretty thin in viscosity. Coverage is pretty good, most colors are 2-3 coats. Solids are extremely high hiding. Dry time is excellent. For low voc use nothing smaller than a 1.4, a 1.3 can dramatically affect metallic control. As for the water side there are guys who dislike the system and guys who love it. I came from a 300 hr a week shop and used it and loved it. Reducing the water 80% Helps allot with dry times . I would strongly suggest using hb005 and hb040 rather than hb002 and hb020 . It makes de nibbing and tacking bunch easier as it dries more thorough rather than the hb002 that tends to skim the top before thoroughly drying the base. Blends are easy. I never use a wet bed but it is an option, As for gun set up on water, with an Iwata i would recommend a 1.5 tip.
I have been using the Sata vision 2000 for 10 years. No complaints whatsoever. Devilbiss has a pro mask which is much nicer than the orange air visor they have been selling for years. The Iwata mask is not comfortable and parts seem to break constantly. and its claustrophobic as hell. I’m in the US and not a lot was offered here so when i tried the Iwata i bought it from the Uk. http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product.php?currency=USD&tid=99&products_id=6778 is the devilbiss pro
http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product.php?currency=USD&products_id=4605&brand=IWATA is the iwata. I would strongly recommend the SataDepending on what factory and what day youre in that factory you will find paint from almost every major player. BASF, PPG, DuPont, Valspar. Sherwin, and AKZO.
As mentioned they can use and variation of those products. It may be a ppg supplied ecoat and a DuPont base with a BASF clear. They thing alot of guys forget is the lines they spray in the factory is NOTHING like we use in the refinish division. Most cars look like shit before entering a bake cycle at the factory. The clears are designed for 300-400 degree bake cycles. Product is designed to level out during that bake cycle. The hands down biggest reason for variations of color matches is this: Take Gm for example they allow a 7% difference from the Standard paint sample they provide to all of the paint suppliers.So if PPG comes in with lets say a wa519f that is coarser than the gm standard and sherwin comes in with a wa519f that is darker than the standard and BASF comes in with a cleaner/finer wa519f, so long as those dont fall out of that 7% window they are considered acceptable to the standard.
And as stated most plastic pieces are painted by an outside company for that mfg. There are several companies outsourced by mfg to paint these parts. Most of them however use “traditional” refinish products.
I’ve been doing testing on a 3rd generation Norton cup. Just a revised lid that still uses the valve/spring set up but seals alot better than the current ones. Sata is my choice but they are a bit pricey when compared to others. Devilbiss also has a new version called the gunner cup. I never cared for the Dekups system
Has axalta come up with a solution for de nibbing the base and re coating? I had heard if you get any trash in the base it is damn near impossible to recoat and not have it look like crap
Like Jayson stated Autowave MM 2.0 is a new line of metallics and binders. It was launched in May in our region. Ive heard it is a big improvement
Went through 2 of them myself. Tried a mirka one and it died as well
Does your boss own the shop or is he just a manager? If he is just a manager id say ding is correct and is on the take. If he is an owner Id reccommend finding another shop to work for lol
looking good
Ive got about 15 others that i need to get out of my boxes and get cleaned up. Ill post up some detail on them when i get them out
My personal experience with the Tekna prolite is that the 202 aircap and 1.4 set up was considerably slower than a sata rp3000 with a 1.3 . The 7e7 aircap with a 1.4 in the Tekna sped things up a lot however I think on a thicker viscosity clear it is still slower than a rp. The price point is attractive and you can obtain them with either a 1.2 1.3 setup or a 1.3 1.4. Depending on what you’re spraying the prolite is also teflon coated inside.
Good night Mr Autowave