Christopher Heitzmann
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I’ve been spraying Onyx since 2011 and haven’t had too many issues w color match. We do 90% Mercedes though and their colors are pretty consistent. We switched from Diamont and the colors are all a little cleaner. The color decks are the same for 55,90, Diamont, and Onyx so there’s going to be some variations in the exact match.
When I first started painting I bought a SATA 90 off of our PDR guy. About 2yrs ago,8yrs later he wanted to buy it back from me. I didn’t want to sell it but he kept referring to it as his kid. I decided to let him go over my whole truck for the gun. At the time I was happy but now I kinda miss that gun. I know now that I won’t be selling any of mine again.
I did a fender on Thursday and I got fisheyes. On Friday a sprayed a body panel and of course no problem at all. No worries on vacation for the week.
I’ll take one as well.
Got a new gallon today and made a spray out. I’m happy to sag no fisheyes. Tomorrow I’ll spray some jobs with it and give my rep a call back about the gal I had on the shelf.
Gave it another shot today. I mixed it 3:1:15% with dh18 and sprayed it on a sprayout card and fisheyes galore. I got the same result spraying on the masking paper on the job I was working on. Seeing that I dumped it and cleared the job with DC5100. I’m going to order a fresh gal tomorrow to see if one of the guys may have contaminated the gal.
Slicksand and Standox poly are two different animals. Slicksand is waterproof and can be topcoated directly over, according to the data sheet, while Standox’s data sheet says you can do neither. Standox is also at least 3 times the price. I personally sprayed two. Wood doors on my boat with Slicksand and painted directly on top of it with Diamont D403. I’ll monitor it and report since I just did it about two months ago.
I’ll look into that. I’ve pretty much shelved the clear but I think I’ll start playing around with it again this week.
I’m spraying over Onyx as well, but I experience it over Diamont as well.
The main advantage of the polyester is shrinkage. I have a 1″ thick piece of it that was leftover from May 2012 that’s been sitting on my window sill and its exactly the same size as when I left it there. I also have a piece of DP26 primer that was from the same day, same thickness and its shrunk down and split into pieces. That’s a good enough reason for me. I don’t use it on everyday jobs, I just bought it do use on my own projects. I have a $30 Titan 2.2 gun and it lays it on as smooth as our 3M Accuspray lays down DP226.
I haven’t had any issues with the clear flowing out with the hardeners I’m using just the fisheyes. I did a quarter on my mother-in-law’s car with some that our rep gave us to try out before it was released and it still looks great. The problem seemed to develop when they switched from the 40 series hardeners to the 10 series. That’s why I tried going back to the 40 series. On Thursday I shot the jamb on a Mercedes ML with it and I got fisheyes so I shot some on the paper and it fish eyed as well. It’s very odd the way it’s happening since its the only clear that reacts this way for me.
I’ve sprayed Slicksand w sealer and topcoated with Onyx. I didn’t notice much of a difference when spraying. One job came back in about 2 months later, repeat customer, and it looked as good as when it left. I also sprayed the engine cover from my outboard engine with Slicksand, Glasurit 289-49, Onyx, and Dc5335. It looked great until it got smashed up against a pole in hurricane Sandy. I was surprised to see how well it adhered though.
[quote=”reckless” post=33047]use some long strand fiberglass filler
wont warp your panels
:rock[/quote]
Gotta make sure you put some screen in there to bridge the hole. You can hold it in place with some duct tape. :lol1I see it all the time on Mercedes. A lot of the new factory bumper covers are painted underneath as well, not even scuffed with a thin coat of primer that u go right through with a gray scratch pad.
The main color looks to be black. If it is 7700 is the proper color code for the cladding. In RM, the paint line I use, we use a variation and it usually matches. The side cladding looks to be a little chalky in the photo you’ve provided though.
