Hernandez
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welcome!
what you spraying from dupont. that’s what I’m using at the shop I work for 馃槢
[quote=”Kakenworth” post=22574]I am in the process of wet sanding the whole car with 1500 grit. Would you reclear afterwards or just buff?[/quote]
you said you still got the original basecoat left in a can or whatever… you can repair that spot you got on the roof. “lets say its on a corner or where ever it is at” fix that spot, prime it & sand it smooth. seal it and spray some of that base coat you still got left on it. then i would rather clear the whole roof than a butcher blend on it.
hope this helps,
HDzPS: why you wet sanding the whole car if your only concern is the roof spot? orange peel i suppose. just wondering.
and yes, you can either buff it or clear it. if you want to buff it, you could re-sand it with 2000 after your done with your 1500 sand paper. you could even go up to 3000. anyways you can buff after 1500. just make sure everything is nice and even cause you will definitely see any orange peel that you didnt sand once you buff it.
Ah, just re-read your post. thought you said tape it up 1st. sorry paint fumes getting to me. lol :lol1
[quote=”ding” post=22576]well with single stage you need to wait for it to dry to tape on it (overnight) and when recoating it it will need to be sanded. Just use base coat. with SS you are gonna have a lot bigger tape line to bury than with the base[/quote]
you don’t have to tape up the blue. let the white single stage go down to the doors & sides, then wait for it to dry and run your two tone paint job. of course you’ll have to sand the over spray that got on the blue parts. that way you don’t have that build up line you talking about.
Here’s a 2tone caddy recently done with single stage.
” there a pin stripe going below the 2tone line.” just not done yet.[quote=”richardwragg” post=22587]Hi again if i use a 2k primer and base coat can i wet sand the primer or is that a big no no. thank y richard :lol:[/quote]
sure you can! but first make sure to prep those pin holes or whatever they are. use some putty with a razor blade and fill those (sand ’em), then 2k prime it. sand with 320, then wet sand with 600. seal it, base it, clear it.
PS: I rather just sand the whole thing all the way down to the metal (180sand paper should do it) and 2kprime. that way I know I got nothing to worry about once its primed. but thats the nice way to do it.
if you wanna half ass it then go ahead and do the putty glaze cover the pin holes, etc… The smoother it is the better. (final sanding with some 600wet, and seal it.)[quote=”5LEater” post=22518]looks like pinholes in your filler to me? I would mix up some two part polyester glazing putty, and using a razor blade
lightly skim over the pinholes with the glaze, trying to put less than more glaze on the surface. sand the glaze with a block until you cannot feel
the pinholes in the surface anymore, reprime, and then reshoot the base. Sometimes its hard to see pinholes in the primer without looking very closely at the surface. hope that helps.[/quote]I would definitely do what he said. I would use 2k primer / with some guide coat then sand, seal, base, clear.
EDIT: in fact i would just go all the way down to the metal. then i would use that stinky primer for metal lol, 2k primer / with some guide coat then sand, seal, base, clear.
Sounds like you’re spraying too far from the object and too fast. if you’re spraying at 30psi or so, you might want to go slower and put 2 medium wet coats around 6inches far from the object. if you want to buff you car after, you should put 3 coats of clear. 2 coats can do it but 3 or 4 is better that way you have something to sand 馃檪 Allow 10mins between coats or even 15mins. Not everyone is the same.
PS: practice on test panel(a messed up fender or something) before doing a car.
Hope this helps,
HDzSolvent or air trapped in film escapes during drying leaving pop marks.
路Incorrect spray viscosity, spray pressure, flash off time, or improper drying.
路 Incorrect choice of hardeners and/or thinners. Use of fast-dry thinner or reducer, especially when the material is sprayed too dry or at excessive pressure.
路 Excessive film thickness. Insufficient drying time between coats and too heavy application of the undercoats may trap solvents causing popping of the color coat as they later escape.
路 Incorrect drying of primer / fillers.
路 Improper surface cleaning or preparation.
路 Infrared facilities too close.
路 Baking was started too soon after application.
路 Baking temperature too highBack to the good old saying. “Too much too soon”
hope this helps. believe it or not, its true
