Kent Buehrer
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Are those pics after color sanding? Looks great! Did you use the LPH400 on that?
I use equal parts marine grade spar varnish and mineral spirits. Wipe on with a lint free towel. Looks great and lasts.
Because it’s hotter than hell in FL and very humid. I bet if he tried normal or slow activator he will be much happier.
What are your temps/humidity level in your garage and “booth”? You don’t need a fast clear you need a slow clear (universal) and the slow activator so it stays open longer and has the ability to purge the solvents esp. since it appears you do a lot of black. JimC told me that you really need to bake or let dark colors flash longer then other colors because the pigments are so much heavier. Even using a hairdryer will work to get it flashed off. If it is above 80deg. in your garage get the slow act. and put some polar in it. The polar will not speed up the flash time but it will improve dry time. You can also add some (up to 10%?) slow reducer.
I think what you have is what Barry calls “pinching” or as George Castansa says “I had shrinkage!!”.
I keep doing edits on this :S Something else that came to mind is that you are using rattle can primer. That product is for ever flashing off as I understand, then you have the base that has a lot of solvents and then you have the clear with a lot of solvents. Have you thought about using an 2k or epoxy primer instead? The epoxy can sit for an hour before topcoating without sandng. 2k will be dry in 30 min to be sanded. You are a perfectionist and not really on a time crunch so why not use the best products? It’s cheaper to do it once with quality product than it is to save $$ on product and have to redo.
When my glasses get coated, I take a small piece of claybar put a drop of dish detergent on the lense, wet the bar and rub away. It will get all the overspray off .
These guys might be buying the $50 ones from Timbuktu.
This sebring has a small nick on the top of the fender and scrape on the top of the door. It’s white. Would you guys clear both panels or blend the clear? This is for a dealer but is a sold car. I told them I will do it for $300. My conscience says clear both panels.
I may have to pull a bondomerchant and tape them off. Thanks!
If you want the practice then do it. Trade in is only 3600 if it has all the options and 80000 miles.
Is your bumper lighter,darker? Do the metallics look finer or mre coarse than the car body? RM numbering system that itedifies the most common variant. The standard is the most common for your color.
Looks like a perfect segue for SPI: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm
Look at the reg. 2k primer. About $90 for the kit.
Brian, a couple thoughts: If you are going to prime the whole piece anyway, don’t worry about masking it all off. Just spray your primer and let the edges naturally blend out. You won’t have that hard edge to worry about. Or, back tape it to get a softer edge.
Instead of using the red putty, get some CA glue and kicker spray to fill in the pinholes. Spread the glue with a spreader, hit with the kicker and you are sanding in 2 seconds.
If you get a chance, try Transtars 2n1 primer. I like it a lot more than the SEM and I think it is cheaper. Give SPI’s reg. 2k a try. At your temps it would be ready to go in 30 min. In the long run it will be cheaper than rattle can because the cans are full of propellents to get the stuff out.
Not all flaps are textured. That’s up to you to tell the customer what to purchase. If they get something different then be sure to increase the charge.
That’s only 45 a piece. A dealership told a friend it was 100 to do a white door handle. I usually charge 60-80. They are willing to pay the extra because I can do it in a day or so and most bodyshops will take a couple of weeks. I worked out a barter to have my wifes fuel system flushed for a couple of trims.
Throw the book out.
Thank you Mr. Stone
That is what I do. But I toss in a green pad between the yellow and blue. I think my initial prob. on that bumper was not using wool first.