Kent Buehrer
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Take a look at this site for pinstriping help. I have dealt with this guy before and found him helpful. Scroll down most of the way to get to the kit.
http://innate.com/super_specials.htm
Do you think that a drywall sanding pad would work? The sanding sheets for those are similar in appearance to the Abranet. Just wondering.
Computers are antiquated by the time you get them home anymore. Look into a brand called ASUS, I understand they are ranked just below Macs. My son got an ASUS with dual core, 500g hard drive laptop for $700.
Thanks for your advice on this stupid thing. I have developed another layer of respect for the work you real bodyshop guys do. My skill sets seem to be suited for the used car biz.
Thanks again,
Kent
Yes you did. But the bed liner would have been the problem. Like you said, it’s a work truck.
It’s ready for color now. I just want to know what to do in the future. I hear push from behind but that bar is in the way. Is there another way back? I know you are tired of this topic but I am wanting to learn.
Thanks.
Here is a pic of that support bar I was telling you guys about. It runs from end to end with only a small opening on each end. The only removable cover is the one that give access to the handle mechanisms. The rest of the gate is covered in bed liner. Would that be covering up access screws?
[IMG]http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab17/AffordableAuto_photos/DSC02832.jpg[/IMG]
I took a look at the handle area and just below the handle and the mechanisms is a solid metal plate that runs the length of the gate with a small gap on either end.
I have followed Bondomerchants lead and started mudding it up. I know it is just a fleet truck but it is a good learning experience. There is one spot that still wants to oil can but the rest is pretty solid.
Stone, how would you get behind it? The gate has a sprayed in liner. I didn’t see any spots that went all the way down.
Thanks!
It’s clear that I didn’t attack this with any kind of skill, so, what would be the proper way to do this besides replacement? I used a rivet gun type puller to do this. Would using a slide hammer given better results?
Here is the topographical map I created on this tail gate. I have tried to hammer down some of the high spots from pulling but still need some work. The areas that burned through, can I spot weld some more studs and cut them off to fill? I tried using the shrinking tip but really don’t know what to expect or how to do it.
[IMG]http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab17/AffordableAuto_photos/DSC02822-1.jpg[/IMG]
As you can see by the light there is still a dip in the metal but I am not really that worried about it. If not properly shrunk, what are the chances of the filler popping out after the guy slams the gate a few times?
[IMG]http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab17/AffordableAuto_photos/DSC02821.jpg[/IMG]Thanks for the help!
Kent
Can you see anything in that picture that says it needs to be hit with the shrinking tip? If so, can you walk me through that? I have the physical tools but not the mental tools.
Here is a pic of the damage. I tried a side view but it didn’t come out well. [img]http://www.refinishnetwork.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/New_Image.JPG[/img]
Do you think the inline is the way to go or would my DA be ok? I figured that with such a large flat surface it would behoove me to get something that would completely span the damaged area and beyond. This sander has a 1″ stroke.
It has a pretty good crease about 1/4+ deep in places. It runs N/S about 10-12 in. I figure I can pull most out and then fill. Or, I can get a new one from Keystone for 270 but then I would have to remove the badges and all. I told him $350.
I bought an inline sander just for this job, I have 180 and 220 paper. Should I get some 80 and 120 to knock the filler down?