Adam Michael
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If your in a budget the PDR guy is out the window. I would scout the local yards for a same color hood, you could get lucky with a good match. At the least you got a close color you can blend into, and keep paint costs down a bit.
I could build a pyramid with all the dust I have made, but it would just blow away.
[quote=”Ben” post=21830]It can compromise the integrity of the frame by changing the characteristics of the metal. The front are rear are intended to be weaker than the centre (like a crush zone on a uni-body). And the centre is designed to be more rigid. I am sure you understand the dynamics of heating and cooling metal[/quote]
I would say no to heat, although I am far from qualified to speak on frame pulling I do however understand the thermal dynamics. Heating metal changes it’s molecular makeup, or it’s original temper. When dealing with such an intricate part of the vehicle, I put people’s safety over my paycheck! I’m not saying it would be a bad thing, or good thing, just something I personally would not risk.
My shop uses the tissue paper that goes into a dispenser you see in public restrooms. They only create fisheyes and fibers, so I explained to the rest of the shop why and now I see the painter rocking out with white bounty. Better then that tissue crap. I hate working at such a half ass shop, but I need the paycheck.
I am going to be painting a upper and lower fearing for a gsxr some time soon. I will be using HOC, Super pearl white base. I have never used this particular color so I can’t speak of it yet. If you can hold off I will get some film of me shooting it, and the finished product on youtube shortly after.
Yea man no worries, right side up and decent tape you are golden.
However, you can get flaking when unmasking. This can have equally bad results.
In 2000 I restored a 72 land rover, and we used gorilla something to rebuild the back deck. I have not done much resto work, but we cleared the surface rust, used a converter, then used this gorilla stuff and created a metal like filler in the BIG holes. Not sure what kind of shape that truck is in, but all the work at that particular shop was top notch. Ever car in there was either brand new, or worth 70k plus. I got to work on a drag viper, was fun for a first job in the business. I really had to earn the right to step up big time. I sanded new parts for a while before I got to ever touch a car lmao. But I learned how to mix paint, prep, and do minor body work, plastic bumper repairs, and how to clean a car. So I took what I could with me.
Sweet shooters there, one hell of a mask job no?
I have large hands, and the Sata’s just fit my hands better.
Yeap, and found plenty of fill in work.. Seen a few jobs come, applied with portfolio and everything. Nothing for 4 months.
He liked the way it spread better, but he hasn’t impressed me yet. I am no body king, but I got a decent eye and fingers. The thing is he has been working their for years, and this is his body work. :blink:
That is what I though, so no matter who sanded it problems still there.
I was curious as to the mixing of fillers, thanks for filling me in. No Pun intended.
Now I have to face the issue I seen when I started, hacks. :unsure:
Sucks with this economy took me 4 months to find a job.
The primer sat over night, and I have been noticing some really rough body work. I have been filling in for the last few weeks in mechanical, and didn’t spend but a few weeks in the paint department.
This is a real hack shop, and I am pissed for one to wrenching all day. Not what I was hired for.
I did nothing but what I was told, sand and tape this for paint. My main purpose is to clear me of wrong doing. It was the filler, I think it’s because they blend the polyester with the other filler which idk the kind off hand, but it isn’t a poly.
Everything is going wrong and I am the new guy, but this is what I walked into. I was just looking for some technical support to defend myself if needed in the morning. Like I said my blocking was good and the guy never complained about highs lows waves etc. But he did pick out all the dirt and unbuffed sand scratches left by the existing painter.
There great tools, for removing large amounts of filler and keeping the panel flat. Since we don’t have photos it is hard to tell or say what actually caused the waves. He could have sanded the car by hand and left finger grooves in it I don’t think he told us his process.
The main point here is small waves, which could be in the body filler, primer, or metal. These can be fixed in small enough with 3 good coats of high build primer, and a good blocking. The theory here is, (I’m using inches for simple math) you have a panel that is wavy, the deepest depression is 1/4 inch. So each coat of primer is 1/8 inch thick, and 3 coats gives you a heavy 3/8 inch built up from the deepest depression. It is now a high spot that can be sanded out.
Of course I would not build 1/4 inch of primer unless someone asked, and paid me too. And I would get :stoned first :).
The best thing to do is use a guide coat, and if your new to the whole sanding thing, it is a must have. Powder or can, it’s a great visual aid.
[quote=”bodymanhelper” post=21478]Hi guys
Im just an apprentice and the guy who is teach me told me never to use a D.A. on large panels to cut the filler because he said that you can make waves. :unsure:[/quote]
Sounds like you have a good teacher, it is in the utmost importance to learn how to do things the right way in this industry. Hacks area dime a dozen, talent is rare.
No problem :cheer:
Are you gonna sand it again, and re shoot it?