Andrew
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I usually wash them first with hot soapy water to get any the extra mold release off of them. Then usually scuff them P600 wet or the usual scuff n’ paste. After that water base cleaner followed by a anti-static cleaner. Sometimes the alcohol from the anti-static cleaner can strip any left over shipping primer that the bumper has on it. Sealer can be a two component or single. Then base until its fully covered followed by a mist coat, and then clear.
I like Sikkens Automove !! I have sprayed Onxy HD (water) and even though after reducing it 70% I had difficulty spraying. Sikkens is great for a high production shop, great primers that build, sand, and when converted into sealer are awesome. Base is easy to spray, and by changing your gun setup ( Using HVLP for humid days and RP for Dry days) helps alot. Sikkens HS-LV 2 Pack and Superior 250 are some of the best clears ever !!!
Thank YOU !!! :exci
I know :cens !!! I just wish someone could tell me please.
If it has transportation primer I usually clean it with soap and water to get any of the plastic mold release off. Next I sand it with P400 on a DA, after that I use a water-borne cleaner that is anti-static. Seal the whole bumper and then paint as normal.
Hey Jayson did you ever use Autoclear II ?
My Voc Tech school was sponsored by Sikkens, and it was awesome having access to so many great products. My instructor allowed me to paint paint his truck and I got to use Superior 250 and it was awesome !! Great gloss off the gun if you know how to lay it down.
WOW 1.5 :cens I thought that would be a little too big. Well looks like I need some new guns because both my LPH400 and LS400 are 1.3 . Thanks for all the help and info hopefully I can learn quick with some practice. If there’s any more information please don’t be shy to share 😉
I use Autoclear Hs+LV and I use the spot and panel harder.
Ok I’ll spray a test panel tomorrow and only solvent clean it and we’ll see what happens.
I’ve been cleaning the parts/Panels with a solvent cleaner and then I follow that up with a waterbased cleaner ( That wouldn’t cause any problems). First coat is always a tack coat ( Light coat).
I have one and its safe as long as you have the proper equipment. Which is an Oil/Water filter and a Charcoal filter.
Now this what I do with all my restorations. I use a 9″ purple “Hamburger Pattie” which are the larger version of the 3M roloc version. Now I use that on a Makita sander and sand down any original paint. Then I like use metal conditioner and converter and its made by PPG. Next I will Repair any body panels that need to be replace/repaired and then do all my metal work. Make sure you get all your body panels Aligned and Gaped at this point in the process, because sometimes after market panels will not have the same lines, contours, and fit like original panels. Then I will block the the whole body with 80 and then sometimes with 150, and remove the EPDM coating ( Or sometimes just 150). Now its time for Epoxy primer, usually this is just two medium coats. After that I will block the whole car with 150 or 180 and now its time to do any fill work. Sometimes I like to use a Polyester primer if there was alot of filler done. Next is to use a Urethane primer and block that out with 220 and apply a second round of Urethane Primer block it out with 400 and then 600. Now all you have to do is Seal, Paint, Clear.
Welcome man. Its a good decision to go with PPG Deltron over Omni. I would definitely recommend using an Epoxy Primer than self etching primer. Epoxy will create a rust proof barrier if the metal is properly treated.
First major Question is what condition it the body/Panels in ? ( Are they the original paint condition, have they been stripped, do the new panels have a black primer like coating on them ?)