Andrew
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Which Rubber seal clear is it ?
If its the Euro series you better watch out on the amount of clear you lay down the first pass because that stuff wants to run easily.Since its just came out haven’t had my rep come around to demo it, but since I still use Solvent paint I’m not sure it would do any good for me. But I do have a LS400 and I like it alot.
I’m located in California U.S. And I need all the seal, air, cap, and needle.
I’ve used some of Eastwood paint when I was first started going to college learning how to paint. Thinking that it would be the same as say PPG, BASF, Sikkens, Sherwin-Williams, and Valspar which were the paints that the local paint stores had in my area (Orange county and L.A County). The only reason why I used Eastwood paint cause I was a broke college kid. Once I got a job in a collision shops I started making more money, and my boss would allow me to come on Saturdays if we weren’t open and I would prep out Fender, hood, trunks, and bumpers to practice doing repair work and then paint them. There was a huge difference between the products that I used and Eastwood paint. Look you if you’re trying to paint you car for the first time Eastwood products might be the way to go for you. But the guys on her like me who are doing DRP accounts or Restorations we must use top of the line products because that work must last for a “Lift Time”.
ONE !!!!! If you can go to your local Automotive paint store. Where are you located ?
I’ve used this clear and its really nice but I found out from the Rep that Energy Pro 250 is made for shops that don’t have bake systems. Its great if you’re clearing same parts because it flashes off really quick, but not if you’re doing large parts or completes in a heated booth. The way I sprayed it was a light medium coat, waited till it was stringy and then a full wet coat. Sikkens has Autoclear HS + LV and the regular Autoclear HS that are pretty good if you have a heated booth.
They’re new polyester primers are called fiber fill and super build. My Evercoat rep stop by the other day and told me all about those two new primers. They can be applied over bare steel if its treated (Feather Fill can be applied over bare steel too). The new primers require a catalyst so I’m not how to thin them out.
I went and bought some 1k rattle can self etch primer it worked just fine. The top is going to be Sikkens Autocryl and its going to sealed with Sikkens Colorbuild 250 plus.