Alex Flacco

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 48 total)
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  • July 12, 2009 at 8:16 am #14881

    Unless you replaced the rear door or did repairs to the narrow part of the door that wraps around the window/trim, you could have just blended the sail and the narrow part of the rear door at the same time.

    May 22, 2009 at 5:38 am #14407

    Round or Square??? I don’t know :unsure:

    Wow :whistle: :whistle: You are Putting a LOT of work in to the scoop/hood :blink:

    How much extra are you charging? That is looking like a $1,500 hood to me :cheer: :cheer:

    May 22, 2009 at 4:41 am #14403

    Great job as usual BondoKing!

    Now when are you going to finish the Lincon 😛 😛 😛 😛 😛

    May 16, 2009 at 7:55 am #14339

    Very nice, you lay down some clean paint jobs Ding 🙂 🙂

    May 10, 2009 at 12:10 am #14283

    “scraping” the run with a razor blade works great! I though that everybody did that.

    May 9, 2009 at 5:23 am #14267

    MS-47 and MS-30 are very fast drying clears.

    At 70 degrees MS-30 is buffable. Or so the tech sheet says, I have found that it takes a bit longer than that. Still they do have fast clears.

    May 8, 2009 at 8:06 am #14255

    the shop on my street got the whole system from Matrix for $500. And after I think two years the whole thing is theirs to keep. They just have to buy at least $250 a month (toners, clear, hardener, reducer, whatever)

    May 8, 2009 at 12:09 am #14252

    I use Matrix, I get it from a body shop down the street, Its good stuff, pretty much a clone of ppg, all the stuff on the mixing bank even has more or less even the same part numbers as ppg (they just change one number or letter).

    Color match is generally good, coverage is also good, better than dupont, but that’s not saying much. there clears are good also, and priced right.

    I have heard a few complaints about there sealers.

    April 18, 2009 at 10:31 pm #14005

    Looks good, $5,000 of work on a $2000 car!!!!!!

    April 14, 2009 at 3:45 am #13963

    One thing that I have done a few times when space is tight. Paint in two sessions, do one side, the roof and rear hatch and then a day or two later do the other side and hood. Its a waste of time but this way you can put the truck close to the wall on two sides and then have plenty of room on the other side and the front or back. Also you will not have such a cloud of overspray to deal with since you are only doing half at a time.

    I hope that you find a booth to use, if not then maybe this would be an option.

    April 9, 2009 at 9:24 am #13905

    Very nice, the loud talking drug dealers. those guys like to spend way more on a paint job then their cars are even worth. I have done work for a few guys like this.

    The money is great but get a lot of it up front, you never know when the guy will end up in the slammer :blink:

    April 8, 2009 at 8:36 am #13881

    I hope you get back in there and shoot your paint while you are still within your window on the epoxy, or you are in for a lot of scuffing:silly:

    Looking good, man I hope a few jobs like this one roll my way soon. Things have been really dragging for me the last few weeks.

    April 8, 2009 at 8:33 am #13880

    Just my take but I would do it for $4000 if that was all that the guy is willing to pay. Try to get more (6k give or take), but the truth is that a 95 suburban is most likely not work $4000 to start with.

    Tell the guy that the price ($4000 or higher if he goes for it) includes painting the jambs and exterior. Any and I mean ANY body work (scratches, dings, anything) will be billed at $45 (or whatever amount that works for you) per hour.

    You could get all the materials for around $800. Use the SPI Euro clear that everyone raves about. And 6 or so quarts of base should do it. Get a lower end base, that color should cover pretty well.

    Any disassembling that is needed (keep the R and R’ing to a minimum, remember its a cheap job!) should be easy, the gm trucks are a piece of cake.

    On this vehicle you wont have to nib or buff the roof, and spend some time getting the garage ready and clean and then you can most likely get away with not sanding/buffing the sides either. so sand/buff the hood and spot nib/buff here and there and your done.

    If you can get the job in and out in 3 weeks or so you are doing quite well as a side job kind of deal.

    April 3, 2009 at 7:46 am #13788

    I don’t know about having a video that shows you priming without a respirator in the Training section, some newbies might get the wrong idea.

    I do like all the videos, keep them coming guys, I will try to put one up one of these days.

    March 27, 2009 at 8:43 am #13596

    The clear on the fender sure is slick looking, better not lean up against the side of the car when you are done, you might slide right off. :lol1

    Nice job Ding.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 48 total)