Don Skiest
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- February 7, 2014 at 2:51 am #45878
Yep. I hate trusting preppers to block the primer good. Especially on the bodywork areas…I paid my dues, but there is an art to a proper cut n buff. All the old timers used to request me to finish their resto’s….
February 7, 2014 at 2:47 am #45877I use Hutchins Hustler and hand block with 80 to 180. For broad areas I use a mud hogg, and again I hand block. I hand block all my mud work. I prefer to use nice new sheet metal, but sometimes….lol.
February 2, 2014 at 4:31 pm #45834Hello. The answer to your new questions is yes. in it’s simplest form, yes. There is a great deal of technique and prep involved in the blend method. Also I forgot to mention that this would be using base/clear. This is the most expensive approach but gives the best finish.
Earlier you mentioned a color change from Maaco, so I am concerned about paint code and color match. Spray bomb, in my opinion, will not last long and produce the least appealing finish. I understand you are on a budget, so if indeed you must do this method at least take time time prepare the painted surfaces well. Use primer and block sand it out before applying the final paint.
Another solution is to buy yourself a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight Tools ($20) and get some urethane single stage paint from a local autobody supplier. Nason makes an affordable solution.
Figure on
-$30 quart of Nason single Stage
-$20 (2) spray bomb cans of primer
-$20 cheap spray gun
-$15 tape and roll of masking paper
-$30 cheap d.a. sander
-$20 roll of cheap 320 grit d.a. paperRoughly $135 plus labor and spot to paint.
P.S. A gallon of NAson would cover the whole car and would take too much longer to prep. Consider the whole roll of d.a. paper , tape, and masking paper…why not do an over all?
Search youtube for tips, tricks and techniques on surface prep and paint application. Hope this helps!
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemgroupdetail2.aspx?WebsiteCategory=Classic%20White&WebsiteCategory2=Gallon-Kit&AU%20%E2%80%93%20Acrylic+Urethane+Single+Stage&selectedsku=February 2, 2014 at 4:50 am #45829As a professional, the only way to do a good and correct job is to sand down the hood and fenders making it all flat and feather edged. Re, prime, and seal. You will have to blend into the doors for a true match. Panel painting is not correct. Hope this helps.
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