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There is nothing else mixed in. I found out how to do it: throw on an exceptional amount of flake (with a flake buster), and i mean really exceptional, and voila, prism effect.
It looks incredible cool in the sun. Much better than “true” rainbow flakes.[quote=”Mal” post=36828]Just a quick update in the space of one year went through 4 leads the fourth being an upgraded design and seamed to last better than the rest anyway at 3 months a time! Then speed buttons started to act up with only faster working so it has been sent back and replaced with a Mirka sander.
Turns out all the 3m sanders sold by my supplier gave same probs first couple to have speed button failure were sent for repair to 3m and had still not returned 3months later so they have replaced everyone’s with mirkas and told 3m to take all broken sanders back.[/quote]Now that you have tried both (3M and Mirka), which one do you like most? (3M problems aside)
Just went to the paintbooth to see how it looked like now that it’s fully cured and to my surprise it came out well. All nibs were gone!
Sanded the surface with some black control powder to see if there are any micro pinholes but it’s 100% smooth.I love to paint with no smell for my neighbours and to clean a gun with simply water. 🙂
About PPG D8186, i found ONE webshop on the whole worldwide web who has it for sale. It’s in Italy.
I was expecting much more use of the product, but nobody seems to really care about the environment. :lol1
[quote=”jim” post=37446]Who even makes one to buy? I know there is some prototypes out there, but are any of them available?[/quote]
PPG D8186 on Youtube: http://youtu.be/N3wfyUR4Zas
Here in Europe i can’t find any dealer who has it in stock, don’t know how it is in America.
After searching for days on the internet, the only brand i can actually buy overhere is Mipa wbs 2k clearcoat.Which inlet pressure do you guys use mostly with the 100b rp?
Used it yesterday for the first time with a sealer and 22psi was more than enough. Any higher is only more waste/overspray.
Awesome gun by the way. Only wished it was chrome plated instead of the gray anodize finish. Looks a little cheap.
Sata recommends 22-29psi for full fan width (and 7-22psi for smaller fan/spotrepair).
At full fan width, when do you use 22 and when 29?
22 for thinner primers and 29 for thicker?Thanx for your response Ben. Ordered one with a 1.6 tip and a 0,75L alu cup. Same price as the 0,6L plastic cup.
[quote=”Ben” post=32411]I did wind up buying the RP version of the SATA. I got a 1.6 tip which seems to work well with our primer (although the Sherwin Williams rep suggested possibly going to a 1.4). It’s a very nice gun and sprays great. I am very happy.
Thanks for the recommendations everyone[/quote]
I’m also interested in buying the 100b RP. Are you still happy with the 1.6 tip or would you recommend a different size?
I will mostly use it for high built primers on motorcycle gastanks/parts.[quote=”Jayson M” post=35161]a positive pressure booth will push air/dirt/dust out not suck it in..[/quote]
I was describing a method for people who have dust problems in their paintjobs and don’t know where that problem is coming from. You can use a halogen lamp in a dark booth to trace the dustsource. For example a leak at your inlet filters will cause dust entering the booth, something you normally can’t trace easily but with a halogen lamp you will.
A negative or positive pressure booth doesn’t matter in this case, both can have dust problems equally.English is not my native language, so maybe we don’t understand eachother correctly, in that case my apologies.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=35157]I could see that working in a negative pressure booth but not in a positive pressure booth :kofee[/quote]
You mean my tip with the halogen beam? Negative or positive pressure booth doesn’t matter, floating dust is floating dust.
With a halogen beam in your hand you can see where it’s coming from.A tip for anyone who has dust/dirt problems and don’t know where it’s coming from: turn out the lights in the booth, airflow on as if you’re painting, and look with a bright halogen lamp or something similar in your hand around you. You can easily spot even the smallest dust particles floating in the air and see where they are coming from.
Also pretend as if you are spraying (make the movements) and check the lightbeam. You will immediately notice the importance of a CLEAN spraysuit (and taped off sleeves/gloves).I found out that most dirt in the air was coming from… myself.
[quote=”sage” post=35093]How do you go about painting new parts with no sealer in your system? Do you actually prime and sand OEM parts?
[/quote]I do mainly restauration and painting vintage motorcycle parts, i have never painted new parts.
Well i did once a new motorcycle fender and sprayed it wet-in-wet with the ACME 2K primer i mentioned earlier but without overreducing it. And that went well. It hadn’t be perfect flat because it was a solid color and i would end with lots of clear and a cut&buff anyway.I use ACME Finish1 FP450 2K Primer, in the data sheet is nothing mentioned about using it as a non sanding primer. Just the standard 4:1:0.5 mixation (4 parts primer, 1 part hardener, 0.5 part reducer) for use as a sanding primer.
What could go wrong if i simply add more than the “0.5” amount of reducer to make it a non sanding primer?
Thanx for the answers.
How much reducer is usually added to a 2K primer to make it non-sanding, 50% to the mix?
