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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 36 total)
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  • April 26, 2014 at 12:25 pm #46474

    ACME Finish 1 (made by Sherwin Williams). $15 per sprayable quart. No reducer needed.

    I use this for many years and have never met any problem.
    Here in Europe we have the 2:1 version (2 parts clear, 1 part hardener), while in the US it’s 4:1.
    (Odd isn’t it?)

    April 26, 2014 at 5:34 am #46468

    [quote=”jim c” post=35010]well i guess you could if you wanted to but why really?
    [/quote]

    Saving money (not having to use basecoat).

    [quote]flakes are more coarse than silver so they will not cover anywhere near as good.[/quote]

    Okay. I was expecting (mini)flakes to cover really well because of their size, and
    the gray primer supports in mimicking the gray colour of a true basecoat. 😉

    April 16, 2014 at 2:20 am #46388

    Maybe the fiberglass wasn’t fully cured, and now trapped gasses are expanding due to (sun)heat causing blisters?
    You say it’s also the case on the steel hood. Did you use fiberglass fillers there?

    February 16, 2014 at 5:05 am #45911

    I just spoke someone who says that with his specific method, burying 0.004 isn’t necesary.

    What he does isn’t spraying the flakes in a (clearcoat)carrier, but after some initial layers of basecoat he over-reduces the basecoat 25% and then add 1 gram flake to each 10 grams of base. Spray two coats with this mixture and then hop, candy.

    This ofcourse only with 0.004 or smaller. With larger flakes he always use a carrier and buries with clear before candy.

    October 7, 2013 at 3:19 am #44821

    [quote=”Andy T” post=33468]As you’ve guessed, getting it even is likely to be impossible.

    I’ve done it on small parts like door handles, trims, window frames etc that require a satin finish. Rather than messing around to match the gloss level with paint I’ve simply sprayed them matt then gradually polished them up to the right kind of sheen.[/quote]

    And that worked well? (Smaller parts)

    September 26, 2013 at 7:06 pm #44639

    So basically, if you are for some reason not happy with the result of the flowcoat, and you will have to cut and buff it, you’re screwed because the chance is big you’ll burn through it. It’s only one layer…

    September 26, 2013 at 1:05 pm #44636

    [quote=”Ben” post=33302]

    Yes, it will show. It would have to be repainted (with some basecoat over the burn through).[/quote]

    I didn’t mean a complete burnthrough (damaging the basecoat), just a burn through the upper flowcoat to the earlier painted and cured layers of clearcoat. Will that show too?

    September 26, 2013 at 5:09 am #44634

    I have a question; if you buff through a flowcoat (hitting the “old” clear beneath it), will it show?

    May 4, 2013 at 5:37 am #43078

    Thinking deeper about it, maybe a solution can be found in the prep work. Sand the edges less sharp, so the clear can flow slightly around the corner, into the hole so to speak.

    I think the problem is that next to sharp edges, the clear can’t flow. It can, but only to one side where it collides with the clear that tries to flow in the direction of the edge = thickening.

    April 27, 2013 at 4:22 pm #42981

    [quote=”smooth” post=31776]A maroon scuff pad is like 320 grit.[/quote]

    According 3M it’s 360-400.

    http://autobody101.com/scotch-brite-grits.pdf

    April 27, 2013 at 7:06 am #42969

    Using paper is difficult in my case (hard to reach places), and a grey pad doesn’t do much on the primer i use, that’s why i asked this.

    And what about starting with maroon, and finishing with grey? Maybe this could work.

    Btw, the question still remains why House of Kolor seems to have no problem with using maroon before spraying metallics. 😉 I can’t believe they would write that if it would leave scratchmarks.

    Quote from Shimrin metallics TDS:

    4. SANDING THE SUBSTRATE
    • Ko-Seal® II (see tech page on Ko-Seal® II)
    • SG100, Cured Top Coat Clears & OEM Finishes (artwork only)
    • Dry Sandpaper = 280P to 320P grit (CAMI grade = 240 to 280 grit)
    • Wet Sandpaper = 400 to 500 grit (FEPA grade 600P to 800P grit)
    • Maroon scuff pad

    February 8, 2013 at 5:05 am #41188

    Thnx guys

    June 30, 2012 at 2:46 pm #37538

    @Jimmo, the candy is no intercoat as there is a hardener with it (4:1).
    The product is from motorradläcke (German motorcyclepaint supplier).

    I only have their candy product, not their clearcoat, and i wonder if it is safe to finish the job with my own brand of clear (Acme 2:1).

    June 3, 2012 at 3:59 am #37094

    Spray the basecoat in a really really REALLY thin layer over the spot (over the spot only, not the whole panel) and blowdry the layer immediately to get the thinner out asap. Repeat till fully covered. This prevents edge marking. In the end you can do the whole panel.

    May 25, 2012 at 4:59 pm #37048

    Okay, i just painted the tank. The first thin layer of clear i’ve added ~40% thinner, and the next layers were unreduced. It came out nice and now pray it still looks nice over a year or so. 🙂

    By the way, i think that greasy fingers on the basecoat or excessive use of a tack cloth causes more afhesive problems for the clear than a base that cured too long. If you feel the basecoat, it isn’t like glass but feels a little rough which should give enough tooth to the clear anyway.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 36 total)