paul
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i generaly use 3M 260L disks 1200 to 1500 i only use an interface for curves and swage lines ,flat panels are done using my Feestool DA which has a fairly soft pad ,this method deals with peel better as an interface doesnt get it down half as well
i do have a trizact for my mini mirka DA but dont often feel the need to use it as P1500 on a DA acts as 3000 anyway so trizact 3000 will be acting as 6000 and i realy dont see much point to it as my compounds can easily deal with even 1000 wet scratches anyway ,so for me i dont feel the return warrents the outlay or extra labour involved with trizact
for full blow custom work i flow coat anyway plus most of it is on bikes where i can use mini guns such as my minijet or ANI gun ,most often there is no peal to deal with and i can buff with minimal sanding back
Paul
[quote=”Sach” post=20618]Yea done both variants, did a drop coat, was in water. as for spray out cards yes i did one for the 1st variant i did, but did it two weeks back. funny thing is passanger side looks near on spot on, driver side looks to dark to the rear panel, front is not that bad tbh.[/quote]
well theres your answer the drivers side rear quarter may well have been repainted at some stage ,either that or your paint has changed colour from one half of the bumper to the other LOL ,your only real option is to blend into the offending quarter or match that quarter and blend back into the bumper
either way its an extra for the customer if his car is already two different colours
Paul
well there are a few vairables when it comes to clears ,maybe your using too fast an activator and or reducer ,what gun are you using etc etc
Paul
yes i wondered what the fuck i was on about lol
heres an example of the tested ratings for one manufacturer as you will see they are rated at 10BAR working pressure and tested to 13BAR
Concept Compact Radiators
An innovative look all round with ultra-flat front surface.
The Concept features an ultra-smooth high gloss white front panel, top grille and side panels as standard. Each Concept radiator is finished in a two-stage high quality powder coated white gloss finish. The Concept is suitable for all low-pressure wet central heating systems, each radiator is tested on 13 bar with a working pressure of 10 bar. Its manufacture is certified to the Standards of DIN EN 9001:2008 and 14001:2004 and comes with a five-year guarantee. The heat outputs are tested to and conform to BS EN 442 Standards, they are also awarded the British Institutes Kite mark. The Concept features 4x 1/2″ tappings, suitable for connection to either single or two pipe systems. Each Concept is shrink-wrapped which can be removed once the radiator has been installed, this will reduce the risk of damage to the paintwork. The wrapping contains wall-mounting brackets, blanking plug and multi-directional air vent. Innovative looks all round, with ultra smooth appeal that will compliment any interior design. Combining high aesthetic appeal a maximum heat performance with optimum use of energy the Concept radiator is highly recommended. The Concept radiator is available in a wide range of sizes and outputs ranging from 305mm to 905mm high, 405mm to 3005mm length, wheather in single, double or triple panel sections.[quote=”Andy T” post=20724][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=20723]
take a look at a lot of compressor aftercooler units ,they are very much the same thing as intercoolers and oil coolers on cars [/quote]
Agreed, they [i]look[/i] very similar, but I’d like to see one pressure tested to over 10 bar before I’d use one. Car intercoolers rarely go more than 2-3 bar, so there’s a wide margin of difference. I’m not saying it wouldn’t work, but safety first and all that 😉
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=20723]i would also say that to configure copper pipe to achieve the same lengths and surface area as those involved with a average domestic radiator wouild be a plumbers nightmare especialy a double panel convector, [b]an old rad would also be financialy more viable[/b] ,it could also be dropped into a vat of cold water for added effect [/quote]
We’re agreed on that then.
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=20723]im pretty sure my son who is gas safe registered said [b]they should be capable of some 10 BAR plus[/b] ,however if fitted post diaphragm regulator you would not require any more than 4CFM for spraying purposes anyway ,as the fitting will be standard BSP and airline compatable it would be an easy enough excersize[/quote]
Awesome, it gets better.
I need a lot more than 4 CFM (the supernova needs ~12.5 :blink: ), but a domestic rad does sound like it will work well, as I said above. Especially now that I know they’ll take the pressure.[/quote]
sorry my mistake that should have read 4BAR ,my bad lol
IE if you preregulate before the Rad down to a decent working pressure off a diphragm regulator then the rad need not be pressed hard pressure wise 4BAR is good enough for any gun and will give adequate CFM,i can imagine the internal bores of a domestic rad will allow a vaste CFM flow way above anything we would use in a bodyshop
[quote=”Andy T” post=20611]Not sure about the car rad or intercooler Paul, as neither are built to take that much pressure really.
Domestic rad might work well though. You’ll basically have a small reservoir/tank with a large surface area, so it might do the trick if it can hold the required pressure. Clearly the same volume of copper pipe would have a greater surface area and thus provide better cooling, but as you say, copper isn’t cheap these days.[/quote]
take a look at a lot of compressor aftercooler units ,they are very much the same thing as intercoolers and oil coolers on cars
i would also say that to configure copper pipe to achieve the same lengths and surface area as those involved with a average domestic radiator wouild be a plumbers nightmare especialy a double panel convector, an old rad would also be financialy more viable ,it could also be dropped into a vat of cold water for added effect
im pretty sure my son who is gas safe registered said they should be capable of some 10 BAR plus ,however if fitted post diaphragm regulator you would not require any more than 4CFM for spraying purposes anyway ,as the fitting will be standard BSP and airline compatable it would be an easy enough excersize
[quote=”Wydir” post=20721]well that seems odd here in the states its only a 883 oh well[/quote]
my mistake LOL i got mixed up with the 535 virago hence where the 5 came from
i just paint em 😉
this is or was a sportster 885
candy red with grafix ,molded frame,again built by Dave The Frame
[quote=”jim c” post=20334]if your using the 22 line then forget all the different blacks and toners, etc. just you or your jobber mix a paint formula for the toyota black ryan mentioned. the toyota black seems to be the black the paint companies try to copy when making their factory pack blacks because its just a deep jet black. the blackest black wont usually be a straight black off the bank. it will usually have a small shot of blue in it. another way to go is get black house of kolor single stage. their black is the blackest black i have found.[/quote]
HOK single stage still has a brown shift to it SEM is blacker even at tinting levels ,adding voilet KK to HOK or Cobalt KK Kandy Koncentrate will counter the brown in HOK ar any other black with a brown shift
overall i find single stages are blacker than clear over base jobs,they seem to have more depth ,imo clear tends to grey blacks out and gives a false finish lacking depth
Paul
[quote=”ding” post=20711][quote=”bondomerchant” post=20710][quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=20709]and a bit more fanny for the lads
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/IMGP1774.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/IMGP1788.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
ya but ding is still waiting for more pussy :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1 :lol1[/quote]
nothing wrong with breasts :p well except the big damn knife through it :blink:[/quote]well we all have to make sacrifices 😉
and a bit more fanny for the lads
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/IMGP1774.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/IMGP1788.jpg[/IMG]
and where would we be without the old mini ,this one i did for my son
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/Image005-1.jpg[/IMG]
another custom bike job
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/IMGP1142.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/IMGP1141.jpg[/IMG]
this is a bike i did a while ago ,molded the frame etc etc ,this one ended up in Australia ,built by Dave The Frame of Birmingham UK,the original bike was a Harley nightrain
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/Image019.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc49/jumpforjoy61/Image018.jpg[/IMG]
