paul
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these are amongst the most highly rated and popular Iwata models for custom automotive ,not too expensive and extremly versatile
http://www.iwata-medea.com/index.php/products/hp_cs
how are you getting on with that Supernova ,i hear mixed reports on them ,either love or hate
Paul
this is my third atempt to reply ,and if this doesnt work then i will smash this effing keyboard up
try Richpen ,made in Japan established longer than iwata with some shared componants ,half the price of iwata and imo they have superior spray characteristics
hotrod models available from Mike Learn USA and stock models from bear Air USA who also have them branded for themselves cheaper as Peak modelsor try Harder and Steenbeck ,who manufacturer for Sata but LOTS cheaper under their own name
try the Focus model
Paul
you should be running a min 9mm id line ,as for the sata RP i much prefer the 1.2 set up and lots of sprayers end up swopping thier 1.3 for a 1.2 set up,one it slows the gun down and two its leaner on material and produces less overspray imo it is by far the best RP set up for clears
i am now running a Bersch &Fratscher Optima 900i 1.4 for clears and i have to choke that back a fair amount ,i also use Walcom FXHA 1.2 ,i actualy sold off my Sata RP digital 1.2 after i got the Walcom HA,they are nicer to use lighter more ergonomic and spray at least as well plus spares are half that of Sata .also the pot lids dont crack up like Sata ,my Sata days are well and truly over ,unjustifiably too expensive and other guns perform just as well if not better
line pressure drop is proportional so yes the longer the hose the higher the static pressure of the wall should be ,however there is a limit and it is always best to run as short a spraying line as feasable as even when compensated for friction etc will reduce the CFM along with the PSI creating fluctuations when the gun is triggered
try knocking back your fluid ,this will do two things ,one reduce overspray and two increase control by reducing the speed you are spraying at,especialy usefull if your learning
Paul
whilst every tutorial by Sata for the RP says triggered at 2.5 bar i and lots of others find they spray better and produce far less overspray at 2.1 bar triggered ,your paint viscosity may also determine what pressure is best however 2.1 is what i clear at give or take a half a bar
compliancy regs state nothing higher than 2.5 BAR/36 psi inlet ie dynamic pressure however this doesnt mean those pressures are mandatory and you can go lower and still be complaint [or higher if your not concerned about regs]
i usualy set my line pressure at 2.5 off the wall which then gives me a triggered pressure of 2.1 or thereabouts depending on line length etc ,as long as your PSI is stable at the gun then your CFM will should fine ,i prefer lower line pressures to avoid surging except when using a diaphragm regulator at the gun which sorts any surging out ,i also find running high line pressures and chocking the gun will create CFM problems
from a sprayers point of view you should optimise your gun pressure to atomise the material properly whilst producing a correct fan pattern ,there is no exact PSI as such just a guide for reference which will put you in the ballpark ,hitting a home run is up to you though
hope that helpsPaul
copper isnt cheap these days so i have been toying with the idea of using a domestic central heating rad as a condensor ,run the air in at the top then fit a watertrap the oposit and lower end ,the internal length will be fare longer and the coooling effect far greater plus to degrea it will also act as a reserve tank
the other way is to use an old intercooler off a car or aircon radPaul
you may wish to concider the W300 centre post midi
Paul
the golden rule is buy a compressor that gives twice the output of the largest demand put on it IE allow for a 50% duty cycle on most units
i own a Hydrovane 2.2 KW but that is designed for constant running if required and achieves a FAD of 8CFM@140 psi.its nocking upwards of 25 years old and is still going strong ,it will run almost everything i throw at it ,there is smaller version available which delivers aprox a FAD of 4cfm@140psi
that sort of output[the 2.2] is equal to most 3HP pision jobs claiming 14CFM displacement
expensive when new but will give at least 100,000 hours service ,Hydrovane now give ten year warrenty packs if serviced by thier agents ,servicing is every 2000 hours and not at all expensive concidering it gives you a ten year extended warrenty
hydrovanes dont wear out they just bed in and produce more air than when new unlike pistons
mine is now used at home but at a push i would work of it again in bodyshop envoiroment especialy with noise levels below 70db
Paul
not used the LPH but have been running a 1.2 MJ4 for a few years ,nice gun ,however i recently got myself an ANI [Asturo] FI HPS minigun again a 1.2 but gives out a lot more material then the Sata with a nice wide fan ,claims transfer rates of 80% and i can well believe it ,copes with unreduced HS clears where the Sata 1.2 SR needs reduction and is a lot slower than the ANI
price wise they are half that of most other SMART repair guns such as the Iwata and Sata along with much cheaper service parts ,as everyone will know sata guns are prone to lids cracking and they are not cheap to replace either ,they also suffer with the fan control nobs cracking as they are only plastic
as for Iwata i always liked the W100 gun ,its bullet proof and very versatile mini
Paul
that gun would be an Asturo IDEA or FI HPS made by ANI of Italy part of the Walmec corperation who also make Walcom guns this is the youtube link to see it in operation http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gm7WcPbEviM
Paul