big daddy
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i guess I should post every little detail before someone comes back and says a contradicting statement. In my experience with the brass fittings and the d cups. The brass insert fudged up two Sata 3000’s, defects such as chip fluid passages and nicking the chrome. this in returned caused more flaking of the chrome. So if they changed the removal tool or the process then good for them. But my experience with the brass fitting is not a good one .Also the tool to remove the fitting is simple to use and can not be used wrong, except that your gun body or mine…..were fudged up. So……I Wouldn’t take the chance. I can post silly pics if I have too but I think the point is mute.
Hey J,
You have the best cups already in my opinion.Wait…..I would say that’s a fact! The D cups and the 3m both are set up an act similar.Except with Sata’s guns the D cups want you to install brass fittings that press inside the fluid passage.There permanent once you do this and then you can only use the D cups with that gun. Unless they changed the D cups recently. I know you love your Sata’s J so I don’t think you want to destroy them.They work with a adapter like the 3m disposable cups do on all other guns. As far price? D cups where way cheaper than 3m or Sata.3m just a little cheaper than Sata cups. I’m getting all sizes of Sata cups for under 100 $ U.S.right around 90$ you seem to get everything cheaper so I don’t see why your not using all Sata cups now.Save material some where else. Just my opinion. I thought you guys new what it was all a boot. HA…HA.. Talk to you later man. ; )In this case,with clear 80-121 there is only one hardner its 190. I have pounded this clear on with Sata’s rp 1.4 tips and two full wetcoats back to back on front clips and still never gott solvent pop. If your still wet after your frist coat and 15 min.. Try using a faster reducer or maybe trying 5% reducer and 5% production additive mix or turning your fan speed up. If you can turn it up. Just because you have the best most expensive booth out there dosnt always mean your going to flow the most air. I have baked this clear with no flash and with a 15 min flash and still did not have a solvent pop. Sum dye back sure. I was told thru Debeer training there is no flash with bake. But dosnt seen to hurt it too much if you do let it flash. Maybe give the one visit application a shot and see how it works for you. Debeer tech sheet on 121 says a half coat followed with no flash by a full coat.
Yes, to much to fast can lead to a solvent pop. Some clears are more prone than others.
Hello, Debeer 121 is a good low voc clear. 2.1 voc. I have used about 10 kits of the product and also went thru their training program in Texas on the 900. 121 is mixed 3 to 1 to 10% percent.Maybe 15%.Not 3 to 1 to 1. You can call randy at the Valspar training center in fort worth,to confrim.Under ICRS which is Debeer computer program,go under product info. And look at 121 . The info clearly states 3 to 1 to 10%. If you go to Debeers web site and type in 121 in their search bar you will see the tds. An my info is correct.
So hopefully you just had too much reducer? I have never had it solvent pop. It has a really long flash after first coat. I would say 10 to 15 min at 70° to 80° with 161 or 171 reducers and no production activator.Those are the only reducers I would use for more than one panel and in a booth. Imho. It is a pretty fast clear.Try Quantum from Evercoat its expoy based….so straight to metal and over paint. And yes 3m says the same but not expoy based as far as I can tell. I checked with two suppliers today in my area no one buys any 3m bondo from them except me everyone they said uses Quantum. Ultra and xtreme are just reqular bondo.
For the price rage ultra and xtreme are both good products. They both run about same price for my shop some were in the mid thirtys per gallon. 3m is ok but I dont see a massive difference in performace vs cost. Which 3m is around forty eight dollars a for the same quanity. As far as gold, never liked it. As we all know pin holes are from couple reasons but nine times out of ten from the jerk who put (whipped) air bubbles in the product. If you like the ultra and its cost effective use it.Never had any issue from a Evercoat product in the last ten years or so. Dont use the red hardner. They(Evercoat) say its the same but only issues I have ever seen have been from that colored product. imho. Failures(with pink hardner) came when I use to live in Fl and the repaired panels would be in intensive sunlight and high temps. But then again those conditions make all but the best fail. Go Akzo 😉
On small spots and break throughs you can use a little primer po on a clean lint free disposable towel and whipe it on the raw plastic surface. Just enough to wet the surface,do not apply to heavy. This will stop accidently applying (spraying) to much on small areas and possibly getting a lift.
Hk p30 Hello. I like the USP better but anyway, I use the same setup as you with the same clear. imho the prolite should be set at 26 to 30 psi for clear at a distance of 4 inchs maybe even closer if you can handle it. This usally creates and acceptable oe finish. Of couarse depending on manufactor. If this dosnt work I have used 35 to 38psi at 4 inchs with no air pattern spliting. Also this does not seem to effect material consumtion that much. But it does create a flat finish. I like 2 pack better than the standard version but you do lose a little control particularly in the middle temps. I feel fast clear is two fast to mix with the slow at a rate of 1 to 1 to produce a med speed clear. I like 75 % slow to 25% fast. Even 90% to 10% can work. Just my opinion though. 2 pack also seems to like faster flash times for larger surface areas, if you can get away with it. Again just my opinion. Hope this helps.
I demoed spies and standox, didnt do a tri coat. It seemed weird that spies wants you to spray it one way with and rp. Standox another with hvlp. But they both said they are the same basically.Colors did seem a little off but thought it was me learning the product. They said how fast it was, but it took so long to dry compared to autowave. I could put on five coats of aw before they even flashed once. This was with there rep painting with me. Is this the reason it took you so long with the tri coat?
Uh….2002 and 2021 are the only clears that you can use to compare ppg with any other brand. All others are of poor quality.They will all die back and lose their gloss ……period. To argue this fact is crazy. If you like buffing for gloss use ppg…..i did for 20 years…Even ppg instructors admitt that. If there truthfull to you. Sorry painter dont sit there and say how great global is between 40 and 50 solids,and wont retain a gloss,compared to 250 thats around 70% and stays glossy.Ppg stands for poor paint gloss 😛 Again Sorry just had too vent. I hate ppg and will never go back.
+1… 😛
Just to get some simple facts straight and not to step on anybodys toes, but streaking, modeling(cloudy) are from lack of proper gun control or lack of training for said product. Not because one product is easier to spray than another. With single stage met an exception. If you get streaking or modeling their are many things you can do to get rid of it.thus the whole reason someone would be a professional painter. Tricks of the trade. And although these tricks are basic they pretty much apply across the whole spectrum of painting base coat.Solvent and waterborne are differnt,but still close to the same. If you really want a metalic to be easy to spray,use a smaller flake size. If you want to still know which sprays the best look at waterborne hands down.If you dont have experience with a silver or gold then nothing not even differnt paint lines is gonna help. You need practice with slivers and golds with large flake. Once you can master the even orientaion regardless of brand than you can paint anything……lol….hope you get the point man.
+1 on the sikkens. If you like ab+ you should try autowave. Makes ab look like poo poo. :p
To be honest with you nothing is gonna be easy for you since you dont have gun time. Buy some cheap stuff and practice. Sorry but thats the truth. They dont call it body “work” because its easy. Any major brand will work. Its just when you get into color match of o.e..and durability and speed do things seperate.