chad
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Lol wow nice collection! How many do you actually use? I was considering switching to a ProLite a month or so ago and immediately put my 2 SATA 3000s up for sale. Looking back now if I ever do decide to switch again ill definitely keep the SATAS and hang em on the wall!
Well its official guys I pulled the trigger. The district manager for transtar came down today and said theyll put the entire system in computer, scale, bank, table, $6,500 worth of paint and more for FREE! Without a contract and can drop it anytime. I couldn’t refuse. Ill report back here in color match and coverage. Before I made the decision I called another shop that does 20-25 cars a week and they said it works great for them. That the stuff is so concentrated you can paint a car with a quart and a front end with a pint. Thatll surely save some time in the booth! Guess well see. Installing it nexy week..
Im using mar-hyde ultimate 2k now but I had thought about rolling it for this camry! Not sure if its rollable though. I’ll call them.
Ive never had a problem with my clear soaking through but I feel like the color’s spray dust blows right off which COULD look like tiny bits of trash. Ill check prices on that and surely look into the roll on primer too. Ive got a job coming in Monday 2013 camry someone keyd one line down all but 3 panels! rolling seems like itd be perfect for that job. Thanks always looking for better faster and cheaper!
Wow a non-isocyanate primer! Performs just as well as iso primers huh? Do you like rolling it just bc its less in the air or are there other reasons? Ive never experimented with roll on primer I always figured it’d leave an aggrevating edge to sand off. Im gna look into that clear. Also I see you’ve got a full down draft booth lucky guy! I notice you use that shiny blue masking paper do you notice any difference between that and the standard green paper? Maybe the overspray sticks to it better and doesn’t get blown off during clearcoating
I haven’t experienced any yellowing with the shop line 620 or 630 over the years. How long do you spend on denibbing each vehicle? I just use 1k grit 2k grit then compound and polish w 3″ buffer. Quick wax to remove any swirls works wonders. Saw where 3m made a neat little powered sanding pen a while back.
I’d like to find a nice high build easy sanding primer for under $100. I use Mar-hyde now and it’s EXTREMELY high build . But a little harder to sand and yellow so it can take a little more paint to cover sometimes.
Keeps the color from dying back? I’ve never heard of that! And generally I use no sealer/undercoat and haven’t had any any comebacks due to chipping. I took an icar class at a mega bodyshop and one of their paint shops used sealer on every one amlnd the other shop didnt seal at all. Aside from hiding scrstches and easier coverage I can’t see a need to seal.
I looked on both transtars and matrix websites. Totally different campaigns. Transtars mention nothing about color match while matrix is really boasting about theirs. I know just bc a company says it doesn’t mean it’s true, but when tout fail to mention it at all that makes you wonder!
Are the dt reducers better? Spray better? And yiu use the dx57 to activate the paint? Awesome tip on the 500 mix too! That stuff makes blending so much easier.
This is a very good idea cromax my jobber said that he did know of one Omni plus bank they put in but the rest dbc. He messaged me today telling me he was getting a alt deck ready for me. Im gna compare some prices in that category and see if he says its just as good as dbc standard! Awesome tip on the 500 too that stuff is magic for metallic! How many do you spray a month where youre at?
Thanks! How would you compare omni plus’ standard to the dbc correct alternate?
Im with you Ryan. Has anyone here that’s used transtar speak on its color match. The furthur I read its getting more negative than positive press on color match. Got me a little worried. Now I don’t see as much negative press for the Matrix line. Anyone used that?
The bad thing here is I’m really tight with the PPG distributor I just can’t see paying $100+ more on a quart of red paint. I’m not in a big city and we only average 8-12 cars per week. About 40% being insurance jobs. I lower the rates a little for out of pocket customers and the crazy thing is is that I’ve been making Omni and crossfire work for years so i’m thinking almost any system with an alternate deck will be an improvement…
Id still like to hear from some people who have used either of these products!
Profit. And the material cost of the expensive stuff would price me out of a lot of jobs. If color match is good and doesn’t delam how could it cost you money
Interesting I’ve never heard of those. I’ll look into them!
Tyopically paints are reduced 1:1. Transtar allow for 1:1 to 1:1.5. Some might not have know that it could be “over reduced.” And that how paint and materials are billed in Collision work. $32x the number of paint hours.