Ben Hart
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[quote=”Magnolene” post=34819]I have tried mosaic I believe it was DX on a ford it is a dark met blue. It seemed cloudy on side cast almost like it blushed or something. The reducer slash activator is cloudy and its mixed 1:2 The Dupont rep came out and asked some questions and took what we had left in the can. But it was a cloudy day and you couldn’t see it really. Seems they golf on sunny days, I haven’t heard back.
As far as using water my options with my jobber, we go back to mid 70s are. standoblue and chromapro I believe they are the same base with diff primers and clear. Or sherwins offerings I don’t really need the extra expense of water. I’m worried about pricing my self out of work already using standoxs solvent based system. I got a little bad blood with DuPont because when they bought standox they wanted to start charging for formula retrieval. We have shot standox since 1994, I don’t care for DuPont.
I have had other jobbers come in offering a free bank of toners and a line of primers and clears. Just not sure about them. We spray in an old devilbiss booth without an air makeup just a big unit heater 15 feet or so away from intake doors. We can move a lot of air it just gets expensive. I really wish my jobber carried basf and ppg. I don’t know.[/quote]If I understood this correctly, your supplier can get you DuPont, Standox or Sherwin Williams and you prefer not dealing with DuPont.
Sherwin Williams waterbourne is a good product (I have been using it for 2.5 years now). It is a little more economical than most of the other waterbourne systems out there, and other than a few quirks (like all low voc systems) I have nothing bad to say about it. They also have a low VOC solvent system (ATX line).
If you have no experience with low voc systems (solvent or water) then whatever you go with will take some getting use to. Try getting demos done with as many products as you can (including water).
As for cost, why would it cut too deep into your bottom line? Are you unable to increase what you charge for paint materials accordingly?
Yes, using the shiny primer, but in low voc format (P27 instead of the P30). Compared to other low Voc primers that I have used, I don’t think its really thin, but I do know what you meant.
It’s a great product for collision shops. Preflexed and can be mixed as a sealer, and is able to be purchased in basic colours like Sikkens Colour build plus.
[quote=”Anders” post=36660][quote=”Ben” post=32411]I did wind up buying the RP version of the SATA. I got a 1.6 tip which seems to work well with our primer (although the Sherwin Williams rep suggested possibly going to a 1.4). It’s a very nice gun and sprays great. I am very happy.
Thanks for the recommendations everyone[/quote]
I’m also interested in buying the 100b RP. Are you still happy with the 1.6 tip or would you recommend a different size?
I will mostly use it for high built primers on motorcycle gastanks/parts.[/quote]Still very happy with the gun. I Would highly recommend one.
The 1.6 is great for our primers, and probably for most others too. If you had a higher viscosity urethane primer, then a 1.8 would be better, but I think a 1.8 might be a hair big for typical higher end production primers.
I guess if you aren’t doing huge jobs either (sticking to bike tanks) then the 1.6 would likely be good for you
Jim gave great advice.
We did a lot of media blasting (with silica, #20) at a shop I use to work at. We had a separate building out back solely for blasting in, and ran off an Ingersol Rand 185cfm diesel compressor. That would do anything you needed. If you are stripping complete vehicles or large jobs, you pretty much need something close to this size, or else send the job out to be blasted.My experience has been that anything that runs off of shop air, is only suitable for blasting very small areas now and then. Silica is a great media, it is aggressive, fast and removed rust well. The only downfalls I can think of is that it can be too aggressive for some applications, is very dusty and can cause silicosis if you don’t wear proper fresh air breathing equipment. Ive heard glass beads can be good, but have never tried them, and I have used walnut shell which is much less aggressive and doesn’t seem to remove corrosion much, but its not real dusty at least.
Any media used needs to be kept very dry to avoid clumping and, equally so, your air needs to be very dry too.
Ive seen some of them being used. Supposed to be great for a lot of things, really good for grinding down welds in jamb areas (like when splicing a 1/4 panel), and removing welds as mentioned. In a lot of the icar training videos, they use them for various tasks. The few people I know that have bought them seem to really like them.
In fact, thinking about it know, I wonder why I haven’t bought one yet…
There are many PPG shops in Edmonton, and a good job market. I’m sure you’ll make out well. Just take in as much of the ocean and trees as you can, you will miss the coast a lot.
I’m from Vancouver Island, and glad I came out here, but do miss some things. I’d be happy to trade positions with you for a while…lol.
Jayson gave good advise. Correct me if I’m wrong, though, but ICBC is using Audatex these days, and has strayed away from their own jumbled system, right?
In any case, if you want to work flat rate in Alberta, do your research. Your best bet is a large reputable dealer shop in a large city (mainly Calgary or Edmonton). The best jobs are very hard to get (especially as a painter). The mediocre and decent jobs, however, are easy to come by. Many shops have a lot of turn over and little loyalty…usually for a reason.
Some good hourly shops pay very well and take good care of their employees.
I’m originally from BC, but did my apprenticeship and schooling here. I’ve seen a lot of seasoned pros come here from BC, only to go back.
With the clears, are you applying as the a one visit application, or allowing them to flash between coats? How good is the airflow in your booth?
[quote=”jimizee028″ post=35916]I am using Envirobase and cant find a clear I like from PPG that dont dieback tremendously..
Can you tell me what clears you guys are using over the Envirobase???[/quote]I read your other post about Envirobase, it seems like your experience with it is not positive like most.
I used it previously, and liked it a lot. For the clear, we used EC700 an EC750. Both are good products, and can have excellent finishes that hold out. They are a little more finicky than the non low VOC clears, but with experience they can work. It is best to use these with bake, rather than air dry. Price wise, they are on par with competitive brands.
You mentioned in your other post about transparent colours? Are you using the correct value shade for your primer/sealer? You also mentioned how some of the colours come through the strainer. Are you using the 125 micron filters? Also, make sure the colours are mixed very well before spraying, getting a rubber spatula or something that really gets the side of the container well helps.
Drying wise, it seemed fast to me. Only a few minutes between coats of base. A booth with good air flow, and/or blowers help. What is the humidity typically like in your area?
You should be fine with the RP and a 1.3.
It’s not that far from a 1.4, and the RP puts out really well, so you should still get your mil build without any issues.
Trust me, with a high power diesel commercial sand blaster you can warp some pretty thick metal!
Nonetheless, I assume you will be using silica as the media. Depending on the grade, it may leave the metal coarse. Running paper closer to 180 (by hand or machine) is fine (just a quick go).
You can use a good wax and grease remover, but be cautious if you do, and coarseness left in the metal will just grab lint and fibers out of your towel and make a mess (and tacking won’t help then).
Then just shoot the epoxy as per the tech sheets.
Are you blasting the parts, or having them blasted?
If the solvent pop is minor enough, and you have enough clear to work with, then you could sand and reclear.
If it’s too deep, you could have it show in the reclear, or you may burn through when trying to sand it out.
If you have other blues in Deltron that you can use for your first coat, do that. I know the blue you are using, and it can be transparent (although I’m not sure how transparent it is in Deltron).
I remember with some brands of solvent base, we sometimes only used 1/2 the reducer in the first coat to help hiding/coverage. It doesn’t really cut down on product use, but does save a little time.
Using the correct shade of sealer or primer is probably your best bet.
It might work, or it might fail down the road. It is possible that the harsh solvents in the Deltron base may wrinkle the Omni base when you spray it. In any case, I wouldn’t recommend it.
Are you spraying a transparent colour? A better idea is to use the correct value shade for your primer or sealer, so that you don’t need more than 2-3 coats of colour.
So what colour are you spraying, and if you’ve primed already, what value is your primer?
I am with Jayson in that I do not like putty over paint at all.
However, in daily operations I will make some exceptions:
-small dents/free repairs. When you do a panel and there’s some minor damage that’s unrelated, but in an area that will be based over any way, I sometimes cheap out like that rather than base over dents, scratches chips etc.
-Thick Chrysler primer/previous work. When doing small repairs on chrysler vehicles with that thick primer, it can often be not possible to feather the primer far enough out, and stay within an area to be blended. In this case, I grind to bare metal, do any metal work, then fill over the bare metal. Then I will feather the topcoat (base and clear) away from the primer, then skim putty just over the thick primer edge. I’ll carefully sand it, finishing with 220, ensuring there aren’t deep scratches in the primer. I’ll sometimes do something similar when repairing over top of a previous repair that I don’t want to open up too much.