Ben Hart
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It has been quiet here.
For me, I have just been busy as heck at work. Our town got hit by 3 hail storms this summer. The last one was catastrophic, over 15,000 auto hail claims reported so far. Thousands of homes (including mine) have been extensively damaged (we have softball sized holes in our siding, our asphalt shingles are dented and almost smooth, the paint on our deck and stain on our fence were basically blasted off, some wood trim was actually split etc).
Ever hear of the term “sublet” lol
Dashes suck, period.
Looking at the pics on my phone, it looks like a nice scratch/scrape. Someone probably scraped the fender while you were parked. Unfortunately, stuff like that happens all the time.
The only things I can think of that could be a problem are:
-drying: water based cleaners can take a long time to dry, and like to hide wet in cracks and crevices. I usually blow parts dry after cleaning with waterbourne cleaner (which can negate anti-static properties)
-corrosion on bare metal: any wet areas could cause flash rust on bare metal…dry it off quickly and completely on bare metal if you use it
-aggressive to paint/primer: some products such as the Sikkens plastic parts cleaner are super aggressive and can strip 1 part primers. If using a cleaner like this, just be cautious where you are using it, and allow ample flash time before top coating
Regular fillers can work (you know this as you have used them before). The problem is the lack of adhesion and flexibility. As mentioned, it is not the correct procedure.
The best products to use are a 2 part epoxy (or urethane in done brands) such as what is offered by 3M, Fusor etc, when used in conjunction with adhesion promoter (for most plastics). These can be used for cosmetic repairs as well as tears and holes.
The next best thing is flexible polyester fillers (Upol has a great product). These are basically like regular fillers, but much more flexible. Some are actually pretty good quality. These are for cosmetic repairs and shouldn’t be used to repair holes and tears. Plastic welding would be required for that.
I agree as well, nicest low VOC clear that I’ve used. I also want to highlight the point about it going a long way.
As a comparison, using SW HPC 21, I use nearly 2x the clear by volume compared to the Superior 250. It is less expensive per gallon, but per job there really isn’t a giant difference. You will make good money with 250. Also consider the 250 accelerator if you need production and/or don’t have bake abilities. It is an awesome accelerator and doesn’t seem to affect the quality of the finish.
I’m a little late to the game here, but agree with Jayson.
Previously using solvent I would typically wait 5-10 minutes between coats of base and anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour or so before clear (depending on number of coats, solvent speed, temp, etc).
But always check the tech sheet to be sure!
Thanks for the input everyone. Sounds like a well designed side exit downdraft could be an excellent booth.
Just to clarify, around here what we call a semi down draft has an intake in the ceiling (usually at the door end, about 1/3 to 1/2 the length of the booth) and the back wall is all exhaust (like in a cross flow). I know the terminology seems to differ a bit amongst regions.
Thanks Jayson.
There is a deal being made (I won’t get into details online), but essentially we are getting a new booth and the only brand we can get is Junair.
The sales rep I referred to earlier sells 2 other brands of booths. Some of the things he has said before are just laughable.
I have sprayed in 1 Semi downdraft and it took some getting use to. Just really odd airflow at the end with the intake. I imagine an old pressurized Devilbiss would be the best bang fir your buck.
That aluminum class was rather dry. I’m not sure if the instructor could have made it any less interesting. Good info though, and it was nice to meet you and your coworkers. Hopefully we get a better chance to meet another time
Ask Jack…hard lining a Jamb is reserved for the good cars, otherwise why waste time masking jambs? :lol
Nice looking seat, and welcome to the site!
As far as scuffing/repainting goes, check the tech sheet for the products you are using. There are a lot of variables. Some faster products can be scuffed and painted after only a few hours. Others may be a day or more. If you are coating with something completely different or very aggressive (chemically) you may need to wait anywhere from several days up to a month.
Do you know the materials you have in mind?
I use to do repairs for a bike dealer. I had good matches with PPG in Concept and Global. DBC/DBU should have the same colours. Not all colours had formulas and most didn’t have variants. For the odd ones, I would just flip through the chip deck and find the best match. A spectro reading might be helpful if nothing else works.
PPG products are decent to spray, so if its new to you, don’t worry.
That’s a 2003 Honda Taurus…Type R
These are very rare, and I believe only 1 was produced in the highly saught after Emerald Green.
My understanding is that the shop needs to have fresh breathing air supplied to the booth/prep areas.
It is up to the painter if he/she chooses to use it or not.
I believe the painter is responsible for purchasing the fresh air hood. Everywhere I’ve worked, the shop has paid for new filters, face shields etc.
Can any other Canadians confirm this, or have more concrete info?
I think this is hard to answer. Every brand of Matte clear (or matting additive) has responded differently to me. I like to do a spray out card over a dark colour and spray the matte clear with different gloss levels for refrence.
The Kia parts are glossier than Buick cladding, for example, so you likely will need different ratios on some jobs.
Many of the Matte clears also seemed to die off more overnight (and sometimes over the course of a week). So check how yours responds.