Ben Hart
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
Working in flat rate shops (not as an hourly technician) here is my view:
[size=4]I am the technician and am given a fair time for the job. If the times are not adequate, this can be discussed during tear down and resolved at that point. I will complete the job to the best of my ability which will, at a minimum, meet industry standards. I have the training/experience/tools to perform the job. If I happen to make a mistake or encounter a problem that is caused by me in some way, I will remedy it at that point…even if it means I am exceeding book time or using some additional shop materials. If the problem is not due to myself, I will consult my supervisor/shop foreman (such as a problem with parts/materials/shop equipment). I expect that as a bodyman, the prepper/painter will NOT accept my work unless they feel it meets standards…as a painter/prepper I expect the bodyman to not accept the paint job unless they feel it meets standards. Also, as a technician I will inspect my work when it is completed and also expect that my supervisor will, to some extent, perform quality control. This should virtually eliminate come-backs.
In the event that there is a comeback, I will personally guarantee my work. If the problem is due to my workmanship (not materials or another employees workmanship)I will repair my portion only, for free. The shop, in good faith, will cover materials and any other labour involved that I did not perform. I will not cover any repairs due to wear and tear or material failure (rockchips in paint, rust forming on used parts etc…)[/size]
I take pride in my work and stand behind it 100%. I am very happy to go over the repair with the customer if they would like…I am completely open/honest and try to hide nothing. If I make a mistake, tell me about it and reprimand me if necessary. There may simply be a misunderstanding or something I may not know…maybe there are better methods or products I could try to use. If my speed and quality ever suffer, let me know right away and try to resolve it. If an employee can not commit to this and perform good quality at an adequate pace, and after trying to resolve the issue, the employee cannot improve, then the employee should be terminated.
[b]BondoKing wrote:[/b]
[quote]I need the amount of hrs it calls for in the books to remove and install a Fox Body Mustang roof?? Its on an 83.. All the glass is outta the car, so that would also lower the amount of hrs and reduce cost..Any help from you shop owners will be greatly appreciated ;)[/quote]
The furthest back I can go is 87 (which is basically the same). I’ve added the glass times so you can deduct them. All times are from a 1999 edition Mitchell manual.
Roof Replacement: 19.0 (Sedan)
20.5 (Hatchback w/sunroof)
18.0 (Hatch w/o Sunrtoof)
R&I Drip Rail Mouldings 0.2 (each)
R&I Back Glass (Sedan) 1.8
R&I 1/4 Glass (Sedan) 1.3 (each)
R&I 1/4 Glass (Hatchback)1.1 (each)
R&I Windshield 1.9 (R&R is 1.5)
Refinish Roof 2.8 (plus clear time if necessary)[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote]I buff them. First I sand them down with 600 on the da and get all the coating off of them that causes the haze. then 1000 and finally 1500. been doing them that way for over 5 years. never had a comeback. the ones on my own saturn i did over a year ago and they still look good[/quote]I do basically the same and have had good success. And just like paint, you can/should apply wax so there is some protection/coating on them.
If there are deep pits/scratches I have sanded them with 180 then just worked my way up to 1500. I did mine on my Escort several years ago and they still look good.
When doing collision or when we did completes I usually just hang them first to get
alignment and index them to get them where I need so on reassembly I can be really close.
Then make sure the paint is very dry/hard before I think of attempting to hang them so if
there is any minor adjustments they don’t get scratched to heck…Of course, my prefrence (for this sake) has been to paint them with the doors on and open
(which I know is not always an option)…If you are going to spray it wet with a slow hardener, spray FAST. Sounds like you just
need to adjust your spraying speed and the speed of your product to the temperature AND
to the size of your job.[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]I’ll toss a vote in for the Sata RP. My top three for clear would be:1. Sata RP
2. Iwata W400
3. Devilbiss Plus[/quote]These are my 3 favourite clear guns. I have the Devilbiss Plus and love it. I do however
agree with the order. The reason I have the Devilbiss and not the SATA is simply because
of the price. I can great a great finish with the Devilbiss and cannot justify the dollar
difference between the other 2. The only complaint I have about the Devilbiss is that in
order to get the same quality finish as with the Iwata and SATA I have to use a little more
pressure, which reduces transfer efficiency (causing you to use a little more product and
have a little more over spray).