bill gaino
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What a bargin, I can get 500-600 if they just bring parts. Looks nice!
Yeah…I hear it all the time too. The customer don’t know what “ready to paint means”. You really gota watch out when they bring it over with black primer. Keep us posted.
I just painted a Nissan that came out very clean, so I’m looking back at what I did. I watersanded and washed car with hot water and GAIN. Let it dry in the sun, I taped it in the shop and hand blew it before I drove to booth where the floor was wet. I wiped it down with 91% alcahol. Then I blew it with low pressure as I tacked using my IONIX static eliminator with the fans on. Then I did something a little different. I let it sit for 30 mins while I went to get the paint. I returned and tacked it one more time. My booth temp was 77 degrees and I used Chromabase with slow reducer. Maybe the 30 mins I was gone let any specks in the air float to the floor and car surface? It sure came out extreemly clean. Your results may vary! Bill :weights
I’m real thrifty myself ….I’ll use a new blue wipe to final clean a panel, then let it dry so I can reuse it to dry my gun after cleaning, then ill take it to the bondo area and use it one more time to clean bondo off my spreaders, then chunk em.
Use wide masking tape to form a mold, then use 3 layers of mat style cloth. Brush resin in each layer. Each layer will extend past the previous. Rough up the existing surface, 40-80 grit. Now you got something putty will stick to.
I would suggest a fast dry, cure, product. How about a 30 min clear. I would avoid a wet application, don’t give it time to bite in and wrinkle. I’m not sure exactly where your coming from, but I paint jambs with quick clears. For me, I can tape over the jambs quick for exterior paint. You want to protect the existing exterior, MY rule is , easier to keep overspray off than to clean it off later.
Put a pinstripe on it and reprint down to the stripe.
Why do I always have to defend myself.? You CAN tape edge to edge if is is a simple 2tone, of course you can’t precision tape complex curves. I’m just knocking off the base where it leaves a edge at the tape line. I normally don’t touch my base before clear. You better watch what base you use, some cannot be taped before clear. I have done it with Diamont, but theRM will pull off with the tape. I guess the safe way is to clear over each color. It just takes longer, and in my world….time is money!
Mick, start with a primeed. Tank. Cover the area you don’t want painted…..that would be the larger color. I always paint the smallest area color first. Paint it with base. After it dries, you remove the tape, there will be an edge,scotch pad that off and now tape the color you painted. The new color will match edge to edge. You just have to tape it tight. Another way is to clear over the first color. Scuff the whole tank, paint the second color and then reclear the whole thing. If you have a little edge you can resend and reclear again. Anybody else? I knw it is a lot of reclear….. But that’s what makes it slick. Bill
Painting over any decal is risky. I have done it,and be ok..then next time, have a problem like yours. Not being able to sand the stripe ir decal is part of the problem.
I painted these doors with the new TT gun. Ill tell you this thing needs 125 psi at the gun to atomize properly, remember it splits the air and half the pressure blows cold out the bottom. The gun got hot to the touch. I can see how it would save paint product. This was base clear and I used the gun for both. I prefer my NR 2000 for base and definatly my RP Sata for clear. Next time I’ll try it with a single stage.So far it ain’t a major breakthrough in my opinion.. Bill
Did I buy it for primer? Not really, I bought it off Amazon for 110 bucks new. The supplier had a 1.3 but it cost $485! The 1.4 was not even available. I know it has a bigger tip than I wanted but it also looks like the vortex can come off and maybe fit any gun. I’m thinking I may be able to use it for some thicker single stage urethanes I use. Or maybe big items like enclosed trailers.
Reducing the blow off air pressure will help. I started wiping down with 97% alchoal. I was using a solvent cleaner GONE and I could hear the static crackling on the part. I switched to the alchol and it stopped the crackle. I believe the alchohol is water soluble. It will mix with water. Also, use prep wipes made for automotive paint. I was using plain paper towels, and the automotive wipes from Keystone are cleaner. Bill
Welcome to the forum! I use an Ionix static eliminator, and I also ground my parts to a gas line and have an air hose with a ground wire in side. http://www.ionixtechnologies.com/Autorefinishing.html It helps but I too get specks in clear. I really believe the Ionix unit helps, notice that they ask you to prep with very low air pressure. Bill
