bill gaino
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I used a bed I had that was hit in the rear, no way I would have cut a good panel. I just used something that would have been crushed. Call it being green :whistle:
I. Know that was a lot of work, love the sandblasting . Very slick. Where are you located?
I know it feels good to be finished! Super nice!
[quote=”Ben” post=28141][quote=”billgaino” post=28140]Thanks ScottB, I never tried it base clear…only enamel and single stage urethane. In future I’ll be using a lot more 2k sealer. You know a lot of jobs are price conscience. Under the hood of my car…I don’t have to worry about rock chips. A customer has a peeling white hood on his work van. I could strip it, lay the etch and paint it back for $300 and MAKE money. BEN, Nobody in my area carries the Doupont 2500 series…can you believe it?[/quote]
To answer your earlier question, yes, this epoxy lays down very flat. The epoxy is not VOC compliant (here is Canada) so we can no longer get it up here. Since you are using the products you have mentioned earlier, I assume your area has no VOC restrictions. I find it odd that your DuPont supplier(s) cannot get you this sealer. When it was available up here, it was very popular.[/quote]. Right Ben, no voc restrictions here. I,m sure I can find it online. Just my local suppliers don,t carry it. I,m going to ask around sme local shops and see what they use for sealer, I can hardly wait to get a job in and try my MAtrix Accushade 2k!
Thanks ScottB, I never tried it base clear…only enamel and single stage urethane. In future I’ll be using a lot more 2k sealer. You know a lot of jobs are price conscience. Under the hood of my car…I don’t have to worry about rock chips. A customer has a peeling white hood on his work van. I could strip it, lay the etch and paint it back for $300 and MAKE money. BEN, Nobody in my area carries the Doupont 2500 series…can you believe it?
Looky there.. It says you can topcoat directly over the etch prime. QUOTED from the TDS….
DRYING TIME:
Allow Primer to tack (15 to 30 minutes)
before applying Primer-Surfacer or topcoat. OK wait NOW I get it…. It was ok then, not now. Duopount failed to send me an update..lolI had an OLD friend from the OLD SChool. He said “back in the day when he painted high end” They would tape the car and shoot all the seams, like between the fenders, doors and quarters. Then they would wipe off the overspray .. recclean and then paint the entire car. He said it reduced the NIBS.. Seems like a lot of work and wiping to me. I’m not a fan of wiping my cars in the booth because I believe it builds static. Any thoughts?
Use a guide coat of some sort. I use a black spray can just lightly spattered on the surface. Then you can see what your cutting better. I paint over 600 grit primer using silver all the time. If the sanding is taking to long, 400 is faster but I agree with Jayson ,you need a sealer over that course a grit as 400. Don’t make the mistake I have… finding minor imperfections when sanding, then filling them with spot putty and sanding with 320-400 and not priming or sealing over the recently retouched areas. Then seeing them after paint! Bill ANOTHER reason to use sealer.
Thanks, I must admit I am self taught. The first time I used the dupount etch primer… a customer brought me a gallon and wanted his wrecker bed painted. It was made of checkerplate and the existing paint was badly cracked, and rusted. I scraped and wirebrushed until my hands were sore and my brushes worn out. I sprayed that etch for the first time over that crap and it laid out like glass. I read on the can that it did not need to be sanded because it had a molocule that stayed receptive to the next topcoat. I jumped for joy, not having to sand that damn checkerplate! I sprayed over it with an industrial polyurethane white and it came out great. Yall’ make real good points about build film thickness, rock chip resistance, filling sand scratches. You got me convinced and I am going to start sealing under my base. BEN does the Duopount 9500 epoxy lay flat? I see it is wet on wet so there is no sanding before topcoat. I’m glad my link to worked for ‘yall. Bill This is why I joined this site.. to learn… share THANKS!
Here is a procedure I have used since 2005. Over bare polished 180 metal, I spay 1 coat of etch primer, it is activated with phosphuric acid. After it dries well, I paint 2-3 coats of either enamal or single stage urethane. I use it here under a hood and again in the truck bed. The hood is mine and looks great today. The truck still looks good too. I admit it is not the most perfect finish but it is super easy and works in these applications. You may have to logged in to see pics. http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3350045562/m/1170013983?r=1170013983#1170013983
Rikka, I have customers wanting the flat black look. I think it looks like unfinished..I have used SEM brand Hot Rod Black. You would think it covers like a primer, but believe me when I tell you it has to be prepped as if your using base clear. Execpt for the sealer… lol When you say textured … do you mean krinkle, or bumpy, what do you use?
Well I got a gallon and a half of a generic epoxy primer in stock, it is not a sealer/primer… just primer. I have plenty of etch primer too. Good for Direct To Metal. Yesterday I bought the dark shade of the Accushade MP 127. Now I can mix the 2 Matrix products to get the shade I need to apply under my base. I’ll need to use up some of these products before I go shopping again. I like Dupount products. I’ll get pricing. I thank you guys for setting me straight with the sealing procedure. As soon as I get my next job in I’ll post the results. With my new grounded air hose, warm make-up ducting, and sealing procedure, maybe I have found the “next level”
Show car? What kind.. WOW an unlimited budget with a timeline! Sounds like a regular Monday. Keep us posted on how this goes! Bill
[quote=”rikka23″ post=28101]Hey mate, it depends on what grade of metal flake you want to use, ; ie using an ultra fine metal flake is like a coarse metallic and will go through a normal set up on a 1.3/1.4, also it would be best to get a house of color flake or a brand name as if you get a lets say a eBay flake you will fined when mixed in with the clear the fake flake are died and the color comes off. I’ve used flake before and I’ve found that you need a great back colour : ie for gold flake use a black base it will bring out the gold more 🙂 depending on the style of car and colour will depend on how much flake In . Well in my eyes you wouldn’t have a classic car with flake all over it. Maybe only on the roof as if was a trend or modification they did :)[/quote] Hey rikka, I think you nailed it TREND. Have you seen Justin Beiber’s http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2194124/Justin-Bieber-drives-100-000-chrome-wrapped-car-Los-Angeles.html It really don’t belong here because it ain’t paint. Sorry
I would go to House of Kolor.. or ALSA corp. They have some trick colors, in fact HOK is all one of the TV build shows use. ALSA corp has some sorry sevice reps. I tried to buy a glow in the dark paint, they said “all the sales people were at lunch” and wanted me to call back later. WTF You wont go wrong with these products. I don’t use these but they are the state of the art, since cost don’t matter. http://www.houseofkolor.com/products/products.jsp