bill gaino
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Ding, If I get an aftermarket preprimed black wing or fender. I usually just base clear it after 6oo water sand. If it is to be a light metallic silver on a higher end, I could grey 2K prime over 400 grit and then 600 wet for final before paint. I used my 1K sealer to HOLD back under work, or to PROVE the surface. If I prime any surface with 2K, block and water sand with 600, I can paint any color base clear with confidence. Some of the jobs I get need to be quickies…but I cannot paint over old pinholed…cracked, checked, of crow footed substrate. If the 1 or 2K sealer will lay down… so should the paint..My thought of sealer is a shortcut… Painting over well prepped primer has always worked best for me. I don’t read the speck sheets.. I just use what works for me. If I could get rid of the damn dust speck particles.. I could be “out of the gun” 90 percent of the time. Remember .. I have to do 2-3-4 cars a week with only 1 helper, so I have to use quick acting procedures. Bill
I was using RM years ago. The supplier made the labels by hand and few were dated. I reccomend you date the tins as you purchase. Shake, shake shake, gone to seed.. it’s bad. Lot of factors. I have paint from 5 years ago that MAY be ok. You never know until you shake and inspect. Bill
Ding, I use Nason base for all over jobs. I use the Chromabase for the silver, gold, and hard to match/blend colours. Cost is the reason I don’t use Chomabase for everything. I just bought my first gal of 2k sealer but I have not used it yet. Back on the subject of dust nibs… Today I purchased an ANTISTATIC air hose that claims to help metallic flakes lay better. I’m hoping it will reduce the electric charge that puts dust specks in my paint! My biggest problem is DUST particles landing on my paint. I was painting bonnets with them vertical, like when your painting the side of the vehicle. That helped. I still use my Ionex device, but from what I understand when you start spraying…you are recharging the surface again.. I hate buffing… Bill
Ding, I use Nason base for all over jobs. I use the Chromabase for the silver, gold, and hard to match/blend colours. Cost is the reason I don’t use Chomabase for everything. I just bought my first gal of 2k sealer but I have not used it yet. Back on the subject of dust nibs… Today I purchased an ANTISTATIC air hose that claims to help metallic flakes lay better. I’m hoping it will reduce the electric charge that puts dust specks in my paint! My biggest problem is DUST particles landing on my paint. I was painting bonnets with them vertical, like when your painting the side of the vehicle. That helped. I still use my Ionex device, but from what I understand when you start spraying…you are recharging the surface again.. I hate buffing… Bill
I have a Nason sealer but it was 1k used straight out of can. I just bought my first gal of 2 K and it is white. You European guy’s seem to seal everything so I figure I would try. I would have shot directly over the VW blue. Often I will use 1 coat of a good hiding “like” color leftover from a previous job before spraying the correct match to get it close.
I believe that clear mix ratio is 4 to 1 mix with NO REDUCER.
I use a large can from NAPA. Evercoat product. Has a 63 corvette red on the can. Comes out fast dries hard and fast, stays gloss black, semi. Part number on request!
I have zero experience with waterborne. See, I did not even know that’s what Cromax is. Learn something new everyday!
I had a customer with a rock chip, he thought it was a bug and put the hand car wash wand right up to it under high pressure and MY paint peeled off. He came clean about what happened. You will be able to tell if the adheasion problem is just in those chip spots when you start repairing it again. I use Chromabase, and Matrix clear without problems. Call your paint rep, at least maybe he can resupply the product. Sorry, I hate to EAT one too, but it is better than a pissed off customer. Bill
I joined a classic car club and they sent me all the members names and adress. I figured I would send each a letter telling them how great my shop was, then I got to thinking about all the nit picky members that think their cars have to be perfect and I put my idea away. I would rather paint and install a bumper cover for a little old lady’s insurance for 1000$, than to have to deal with nit picky customers that send cars from far away. I can make it up in volume. Bill
I know the feeling my friend. When I lost my Textile job, it was the begining of my self employment and the best thing that ever happened. Your boss must have been an ass.
The attachment did not open in my Firefox browser, but I do “econo” jobs too. I have a sign in the window that says ECONOMY PAINT–We wash and throughly scuff the surface, remove loose paint, cover and tape, spray sealer, then topcoat, we paint over minor dents, but it will stick and be shiny. Maybe we can use leftover paint thats in stock. Cost $400-$700
VALUE PAINT-We sand the vehicle, prime the top sections with 2k urethane, resand, watersand, You may still have minor imperfections but the hood roof and deck will be SLICK. Cost $700-$1000
PREMIUM PAINT-We strip to bare metal the hood roof and trunk, build back with urethane 2 K primer. Block sand with 320 grit, watersand with 400-600 grit, tape spray with either base clear or high grade solid color urethane. Expect surface to be very flat high gloss. Some minor dust nibs, still very nice, this is our specialty. Cost $800- $1500
SHOW PAINT-Strip entire car to bare metal, repair all dings, coat in acid etch primer, build back surface with 2k urethane primer, block sand, water block, reprime as needed, wet inspect, paint door jambs, paint under hood and deck, dissaseble car as needed, paint with high solid urethane, or base clear with premium high solid clear, color sand and buff. expect trophies and lots of copliments! cost $3000-????
RESTORATION JOBS-Be prepared to get it done, we can price it a section at a time. stripping cost, metal repair cost, dissasembly cost, etc. On older vehicles you never know whats under the surface? I try to have a paint job for ANYBODY.Welcome, I think most of the members are from the UK as well. I am in USA south carolina.
I had a blister problem with a ‘glass Corvette hood. I was using a flexible polyester spot putty at the time because I had been doing a lot of flexible motorcycle parts, maybe my repair let off some gas after I puttied it, dontno, but I quit using flexible putty on fiberglass. I redid the hood and it has been gone for a year.
If you do blow, use low pressure like 25 psi. I built an overhead filter box by using perferated angle iron and home style a/c filters. It continously filters the air in the shop and can be taken down and cleaned outside. Keep everything, tools, tape, supplies behind closed doors and make the area convienent for a water washdown. Vacuum the dust up rather than blow.
