bill gaino

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Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 118 total)
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  • October 7, 2012 at 10:02 pm #38516

    Whoa! Moma That is way slicker! Great shot!

    September 30, 2012 at 4:11 pm #38435

    Do you do a drop coat? If so do you color sand, lightly after the last coat?

    EB I never touch my basecoat with paper, maybe a tack cloth, but seldom. I use Matrix clear, it is economical and spays nicley. You have to be careful with a dropcoat. If you lay it dry, it will cloud. I keep my silver base wet so the flake lays. My anser is NO to the dropcoat, unless I have obvious cloudiness.

    September 26, 2012 at 7:00 pm #38392

    EJB, I always use Dupount Chroma base for silver, I used to use Diamount and it works too. Other bases give me problems with streaking or clouds. I have only heard good things about HOK, but neve have sprayed it. The clouds and streaks are caused by the flakes NOT laying down, then the clear coat makes them flop wrong. A slower reduced also helps the flake LAY. Chromabase is a bit pricey but it works great.

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    September 26, 2012 at 6:51 pm #38390

    Thanks, I learned the hard way that you need to move a LOT of air. My first booth had very little exhaust, I used a little squrill cage fan and a dryer vent LOL. My second booth was pressurized and every little leak put overspray in my shop. BALENCING the air really works, but I still get dust nibs. The best thing I bought is this… http://www.ionixtechnologies.com/Autorefinishing.html The 100 dollar item really works. This booth also has hot water that runs through the concrete in this PEX tubing! It is still warm in South Carolina, I can hardly wait to try it out as the weather cools.

    .

    September 24, 2012 at 2:54 pm #38361

    I’m using my 5th home built booth. Use a tubeaxle fan, or belt drive so the motor is away from the fumes. I also use 3M’s new dirt trap system on the walls to reduce specks. I use one fan blowing in and another sucking out. This way, when I open the door it neither blows out or sucks in because it is netural pressure. http://www.slickpaint.com/index.php?supermode=gallery_view&previewm=1&a=paint_booth&image=120603020336_dsc00012.jpg&screenres=1280-720 I have also recessed the lamps int the walls. More detail upon request. Bill

    September 12, 2012 at 4:03 pm #38265

    If you paint over crap…you still have crap. The old “bullseye”. Your primer is shrinking up over a sand through. Stripping to bare metal is best, letting the primer dry over night helps.

    September 8, 2012 at 2:03 am #38231

    I bought the RP because I thought it was the best… Today and this week it sure laid out a super slick “no buff” gloss on a Siverado pickup… parts painted the hood, bed, cab with fenders.. .. DING, if I get back and look down the side.. yeah.. I see a litle ripple in the bodywork. I saved the dedutible and it’s a truck.. FRIDAY PAY DAY!

    September 6, 2012 at 3:23 pm #38215

    My Sata RP is the digital model 09049111 I like it for clear, I use an NR3000 for base. I’m just looking for the “next level”

    August 26, 2012 at 2:55 am #38062

    Ding is right. Silver can show sand scratches quick! Sand horizonal like the way the air will blow as you drive. If you sand up and down the flakes will lay different. You should have a satin sand finish on the 2K primer. Use a slower reducer to allow the flakes to lay flat. Use Dupont Chomabase or Diamont polyester base. I don’t use much sealer.. Wash prep and final sand the car, the day, or the day before your ready to paint. Got any pics? http://slickpaint.com/index.php?supermode=gallery_view&previewm=1&a=monte_carlo&image=111011122330_pa080002.jpg&screenres=1280-768

    August 23, 2012 at 6:51 pm #38013

    That’s OK. I grew up with MGBs and enjoyed driving sports cars but they always seemed underpowered. I sat is a Pantera as a young teen and always wanted one but I was just a kid with NO money. 30 years later I sold my 64 Vette and put money with it so I could start working on this project. Please don’t take me wrong. I came here to share. I just thought it was kinda cool that I took the right pics to get my car on the national calender. Bill

    August 23, 2012 at 4:17 pm #38011

    I bought an Iwata Eclipse. It is dual action, about 100$.Get a few extra cups. You can use the smallest compressor made. Very low pressure 10-25 psi. Marbleing can be done by laying on a dark, or light base, let dry. Now lay on the opposite, light over the dark,say. Now quickly put a sheet of Suran wrap on the wet paint, and remove it. Now you have a marble look, to clear over. Don’t worry, you can’t screw it up, unless you change the way you do it halfway through. Practice on junk. To do a lace, buy some, lay it and spray through it. Practice makes perfect! Have fun! Bill

    August 22, 2012 at 3:46 pm #37988

    I blow and tack there, but I tape in another prep area.

    August 22, 2012 at 2:59 pm #37987

    I thought I was making friends here.. I’m crawling back to the paint mix room :sick: HERE maybe this will change your minds 👿

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    August 21, 2012 at 4:05 pm #37963

    Ding, Could you describe that “proper” process? I guess the reason I don’t use the sealer is because the product I have been using is Nason single stage, it must be enamel base. It dries slow and is not perfect slick. None of my suppliers have a 2k sealer like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nason-422-52-Urethane-Sealer-/180955421213?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2a21c89a1d&vxp=mtr I’m sure I could order some. What do you PRO’s use? Bill

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