bill gaino
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I can tell you. It’s not one thing that keep it clean it is many, wearing non woven suits. My best jobs are when the car is off the ground on jack stands. Not sure if it better grounding, but they are always the cleanest. This is just another tool in the fight against the NIBS!
I use chroma base all the time. Like you, I did not like the Bulldog product either. I use a generic adhesion promotor from Carolina Auto Supply in Charlotte NC 800-438-4070 they only sell to business’ wwwautosupplyhouse.com On light metallics try a grey schothpad. I use ‘scuff stuff’ that is kinda like soft scrub, but rinses clean and is designed for auto paint prep. Unlike Ben, I cheap out and don’t use the sealer, never had a problem, but most procedures do call for it. I just painted a cover this morning, It was preprimed from the supplier. The adhesion promotor is the flex agent. I lightly dry sanded it with a small sheet of 6oo , so I could see where I was.Since your bumoer is raw, leave out the 600 step, Then wet scuff with a grey pad and scuff stuff. I gave it a light coat of the generic promoter, just to assure good adhesion as the front cover catches all the road crap, cheap insurance. Base, clear. Works every time! Bill
Sure, There is enough of a body line to cut it….I agree… roll the tape to soften the edge…..remove the tape while the clear is wet. You can even hand blend the paint’s edge with a little compound when it’s dry.
I dunno about cutin’ and buffin’ the single stage… that product can lay like that “out of the gun” One of my favorites it Nason Fulthane. It looks great! Nice job Jon. Bill 😉
Sweet, I noticed in the first pic some body had taped out squares for the primer, and I thought I was going to have to set you straight. Then I see the rest of the pics… your a pro and it shows! I hate rust, and I’m up to my ass in it now. Thanks for sharing.. Bill
I painted for used car dealers for years. I painted a lot of pinstripe up jobs. Some, I would remove one stripe and make the cut between, then replace the upper strip. In your case, an older vehicle, I would just back tape it and then use a thin tape for the cutoff, like 3M’s green plastic fineline, and then pull it while the clear is still very wet. That will let the edge soften a bit. You may want to cut it at the upper edge of the stripe so they are under the clear. You will have a little edge but.. well it’ll be ok.
I had a guy bring his 58 Caddy to show me hew nice it was. It was great, tangerine color tri coat. I asked him “how many times did he paint it” He replied that he blended it in 7 times.Jeeez, As a real world painter, I have to get it right the first time. I saw a restoration show where they pulled an old enamel BMW out of the barn and they started with 400, and worked the shine back from there. It had to be thin in the end, If you attack a run with 1500, seems like often you go through next to it before you flatten the run itself. Some times I’ll knock off the bulk of a run with 600, then go finer. If you got 6 coats of clear, I guess you could start with 400. As you go finer and finer you end up with a 3000 grit finish before you start buffing. If my finish was so bad I needed 400 to get it flat, I would just repaint it. My 2 cents
Etch primer was an older procedure for plastic.I tried the free sample of Bulldog, it was kinda think and was orange peel before I even painted.I now use a generic plastic adhesion promotor that is the consistancy of water,then go straight to base coat. I have seen procedures that call for a sealer between the promoter and base, but not here. Nice job on the qtr! Looks like a skim coat of quality poly putty should smooth right up. I had an RX7 in the shop 10 years ago and the customer told me to be sure and let it warm up after first starting. next thing I know.. one of my guys crunk it and moved it, then shut is down. It would not start back. The customer came over and we dumped tranny fluid into the intake and it finaly started and smoked like crazy for 5 min. I think the vanes were wore out, but I know how to get them back started now!
I hate buffing. I would just as soon clip and reclear, unless your looking for the show finish. The 3000 grit Trizcut makes it a lot easier, after the 1500 wet. You kinda have to have a FEEL for the spraying. I try to move like the robots you see on the HOW it’s MADE show. Looking at the spray as it hits the surface, knowing where my gun is headed. Jimmo4life has a great stroke too. RULE: Anytime you add reducer you are taking something away from the solids and performance. My Matrix mixes 4 to 1 and that’s it. No reducer in my clears ever. I prefer to move faster with a 1.4 tip, but some painters move slower with a 1.3 Kinda depends on your flow of movement. Make long strokes, I used to paint a panel at a time. Now, I walk the car from front to back like Jimmo4life videos. He is the only online painter I have seen that spays like me. Another RULE: You better make sure your gun is spraying a perfect pattern, or you ain’t got a chance. If it shoots a heavy stream up or down… your paint is doomed. Invest is a paint gun cleaning machine. Test you spray pattern everytime. There is a fine line between dry/wet/ and runs. The paint needs to flow a bit after it is on. Kinda lay out. Bill
I also believe you are having a low pressure problem. I Have sprayed gallons of the Nason and last year switched to Matrix MS 52,with SATa RP My gauge on the wall where my hose is connected reads 60 plus PSI. I’m not sure what is at the gun, and really don’t care. My son came into my booth to remove wheels one day, and jacked up the pressure to 100, The next car I painted did not come out so slick. It then hit me what had happened and I put tape on the regulator to keep it tamper proof. I leave the pressure set at 60+. Your jobber may have an air cap that fits your gun, and you can use that to adjust your air pressure. Mine had one
that fit and he said mine was just right I had set by FEEL. I also wait for the fist coat to kinda string off my fingertip before applying the second. Looking at my gauge.. it is pegged at maybe 80 PSI. BillEpoxy it is! makes sense too. The surface is so rough from blasting…there will NOT be any adhesion problems. I’m still putting tape over the holes I’ll cover with metal. Kinda hared for me to get motivated on this JUNK project, when the one on ebay is about to sell for $3500. I tried to tell ’em. Thanks for the advise! Bill
maybe, I’ll just buy this and tell the customer.. I’m finished.. bring $7500 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280938784229&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
I tried to tell the customer “just buy one already fixed up” but Noooo! he wants to go through with it.
