Lee
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ive been using a RP 4000 here in the Uk for the past 8 months for clear, i use to run a 1.3 in it, up until i put a 1.2 set up in it this week..totally different gun now and perfect for my painting style..
has anyone ever used or know anything about an agitator pot to keep metalflake agitated whilst mixed with clear coat, I heard Sata do one but cant seem to find it..the Gun I use for Clear is a Sata 4000RP.
Hi Scott, yeh that sounds like the one although I bought the sample bottles direct, we are shelving the Holographic flake now, as the rainbow effect isnt suited, although it looks as though we will be going for a Gold flake over a Black base, is HOK any better than any of the other flake suppliers, I should imagine there all pretty much similar arent they?
Hi Chaps sorry for not replying soon been rushed off me feet, trying to clear the back log of work before i can start this project.
Thanks for your replies some intresting points and thoughts there.
My instructions from the Client is to create a finish based around a Gold colour with as much “POP” as possibe, now this is on a £300k car so needs to be classy aswel.
I have opted for a Holographic Gold Flake [Medium] from Custom Paints here in the UK, they have sent me a sample and infact im here at work right now playing around wuth some test panels, one with a gold base, one with a black base and one white.
Ive mixed the flakes 50g per ltr of clear, put 3 coats of that on, and for the test ive applied 3 coats of normal clear to, on the car i shall probably flat the clear with flake in it, before applying 2-3 coats of clear, soon as I get a sec this afternoon i shall post some pics of my test panels.
The car is a Soliel Anadi [Google it] which shall be in production soon, it was at the Monaco Top Marques show in April [another one painted by me in tri pearl white]
heres where i keep my weapons of choice. i keep meaning to add my other guns up to the wall but never seem to find the time.
[IMG]http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w77/bladeM3/guns.jpg[/IMG]
well, after a monster week getting this show car from a new GRP/Carbon shell, to a showcar has been extremely tough ive done in excess of 130hrs on it in 7 days and am knackered, but it came out great painting the 3 stage was all straight forward, the cars now ready to be shipped to Italy for the interior then onto the Monaco motorshow for the 19th of April. as the cars top secret im not allowed to post pics [yet] but will as soon as its unveiled at the show, im also going to Monaco so will also take plenty of pics of it there too
its all to do with the solvent reacting, ideally you need to seal your sub straight with either a good 2k high build primer or something like Bar Coat can work, but if those options arent available try dusting on the BC to build some layers up, putting it on to heavy will be to aggressive and make the solvents react even more..GoodLuck
A gas fan space heater , located externally to the booth and piped through into the booth via filters, the new system will be an oil fired burner piped into inlet filter systems
[quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=25802][quote=”Bladem3″ post=25797]How about the UK? ;)[/quote]
i’m in the uk?! nearly finished a vrq level 3 in body repair.[/quote]
Whats a VRQ? when i was training they use to call it an NVQ, although it didnt really mean anything, putting hours in as an apprentice at a Bodyshop was where I really learnt my trade, the one day at week at college doing the NVQ level 3, was just a joke really and was just seen as a day off and a way to check out girls!
Yep i agree with Ben, you really have to up your game on keeping Matt clears clean!, on the plus side, very tiny dust particles dont really show on Matt finishes like they do on Gloss, but if you get a larger particle your buggered!
click on this link below and scroll down to Code: W38110
Paint Picker Needle Set, although this doesnt help with the tiny small particles etc that seem to occasionally show under the clear, it does help if you have something land in it like a fly, midget etc, the number of times this has saved me is unreal, its like a tiny needle with small fibres on the end that cling to whatever and pull it out,,brillant product and well worth keeping in your booth!http://www.power-tec.co.uk/showcat.asp?cat=313&page=2
thanks for all the replies and info so far guys :cheers
How about the UK? 😉
Hi guys, sorry been crazed working 18hr days on variuos projects, anyway today i had a go on an old bonnet i had lying around, i know i havent done any crossovers onto joining panels etc, but i was surprised how easy this Pearl white was to lay down, very easy to get even standard silver base is by far harder in comparison, just hope it all goes smoothly on the car, as i’ll have one chance and one chance only to get it right first time before it goes on show in Monaco :blink:
Just one other thing, does anyone tack between mid coats?
[quote=”Andy T” post=25729][quote=”Bladem3″ post=25716]hi guys
but beleive it or not ive not painted a 3 stage pearl before as there not to common in the uk.[/quote]
Not too sure I can agree with you there mate. I’m doing more and more of them lately. A right pain in the backside when you’re doing spot repairs or blending panels :lol1
As the others have said, doing a full car is much easier, but you really do want to be doing the whole lot in one hit if it all possible. It’s often a bit more tricky, but the only way to ensure a 100% match panel to panel.
What I have done in the past is to mid coat all of the panels off the car to ensure I get all the hard to reach places, then build it back up and put another mid coat over the whole exterior. Then apply the pearl coat as evenly as you possibly can. It’ll not matter if you don’t get it right into the tricky areas in the door shuts perfectly as no one will ever know the difference, but getting the outside of the car laid down evenly is a must. I’d then strip the panels off and clear everything separately to ensure you get all the nooks and crannys covered well.
It’s a bit more work doing it that way, and many may not agree with it, but it’s worked well for me in the past as I don’t miss any spots with the colour or clear (the advantage of painting panels separately) but get a perfectly even coverage and colour outside (the advantage of painting the car complete)[/quote]
Hi Andy thanks for your reply , it’s definatly something to think about im on a ridiculous time frame on this it’s unreal and the car has to be revealed at the Monaco Top Marques Show on the 19th of April, I’ve not even got the car yet either :(, just to clarify I take it by ‘Mid coat’ that’s the base coat (ground coat) obviously of which the pearl coat goes over?.